S&W 340PD

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Alan0354

New member
Is the scandium alloy frame durable? I have the Model 37 air weight, I have no confidence that it can hold up for shooting a lot of rounds, I looked in detail the design of the frame, the part where the barrel screw onto the frame is the weak spot, very thin. I just don't feel comfortable shooting the 37. I sold it.

Is the scandium a lot more durable than those aluminum alloy air weight frame?

Also I only want 38+P, not 357, can I use speed loader. I know it's hard to use speed loader for 357 because the casing is much longer.
 
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MC 1911

New member
Most people won't shoot them enough to wear out. The amount of scandium is very small & I've never noticed much difference in weight. If you're going to shoot a lot I'd look at the 640 or Kimber K6S.
 
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L-2

New member
I've had a few J-frame S&Ws over the years ([3]442, 642, [2]640, 60).

The "Air Weight" frame is with my older 642-1 which I've shot ~4250 rounds, so far, and the frame shows no cracking.

I had one 442-1 which had an internal (possibly hammer pin) pin fracture, but it probably wasn't related to shooting. S&W replaced that specific firearm under warranty.

In retrospect, I should have kept any of those S&W revolvers I sold. For the OP, his 637 is already gone. My advice is, whatever you buy to replace it (a 340PD, even if another 637), keep it; then consider buying another revolver, should either ever need to go back for service/warranty.

I haven't owned a 340PD, but S&W would be able to repair/replace should anything break on its revolvers. The replacement, especially in Calif. however could take months. S&W even later paid me back for any related FFL fees on receiving and re-DRoSing, but it can all take time, plus CA's 10-day minimum waiting period. So have alternative firearms to rely upon.

Whether a 637 or 340PD, don't worry about it cracking or breaking, as it may never happen. But if something does break/crack, have another firearm to use as having that other firearm is directly under your control. Whether something breaks is pretty-much out of one's control.
 
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AustinTX

New member
Alan0354 said:
Is the scandium alloy frame durable? I have the Model 37 air weight, I have no confidence that it can hold up for shooting a lot of rounds, I looked in detail the design of the frame, the part where the barrel screw onto the frame is the weak spot, very thin. I just don't feel comfortable shooting the 37. I sold it.

Is the scandium a lot more durable than those aluminum alloy air weight frame?

Also I only want 38+P, not 357, can I use speed loader. I know it's hard to use speed loader for 357 because the casing is much longer.
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The amount of time you spend obsessing about the durability of different frame materials is just comically disproportionate to the real-world relevance of those durability differences.
 
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Alan0354

New member
I was told it's harder to load 357 mag into the cylinder as they are longer. If I just use 38+P, is there any speed loader that can work.

I have model 66 and I have a few speed loader, will they work for the 340PD?

This is very important, revolver is slower in reloading even with speed loader, if no speed loader can work and resort to load one round at a time, that's a deal breaker for me right there. On top, it only hold 5 rounds.
 
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74A95

New member
Yes, they make speedloaders for the 340PD. The speed loaders for the Model 66 will not work. You need one made specifically for a 5-shot J-frame. It will work with 38 Special and 357 Magnum.
 
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Alan0354

New member
74A95 said:
Yes, they make speedloaders for the 340PD. The speed loaders for the Model 66 will not work. You need one made specifically for a 5-shot J-frame. It will work with 38 Special and 357 Magnum.
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My model 66 is a steel chrome plated J-frame 5 shot snubby.................Or did I make a mistake on the model number in my old age?!!!:eek:

I don't know, mine is a J-frame 5 shot I bought over 30 years ago!!! It is a S&W!!!
 
7

74A95

New member
Alan0354 said:
My model 66 is a steel chrome plated J-frame 5 shot snubby.................Or did I make a mistake on the model number in my old age?!!!:eek:

I don't know, mine is a J-frame 5 shot I bought over 30 years ago!!! It is a S&W!!!
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A S&W Model 66 is a 6-shot K-frame.

What you have might be a Model 60, a stainless 38 Special, or a Model 36 if it is nickel plated. Check inside the crane/frame for the model number.

The 'old' model 60s were 38 Special, the new Model 60s are 357 magnum.

That said, your speed loaders should work with the Model 340.
 
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Alan0354

New member
74A95 said:
A S&W Model 66 is a 6-shot K-frame.

What you have might be a Model 60, a stainless 38 Special, or a Model 36 if it is nickel plated. Check inside the crane/frame for the model number.

The 'old' model 60s were 38 Special, the new Model 60s are 357 magnum.

That said, your speed loaders should work with the Model 340.
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You are absolutely right. Both mine are Model 36!!!
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You can see on the second picture it's 36.

So you know for sure I can use the speed loader for the 36 on the 340PD. This is very important.

Thanks
 

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S

Sharkbite

New member
I have a 340pd and the HK speedloader #36 is the correct one. I dont have any Safariland loaders for this gun, although i like the Safariland ones better for my K frame guns.
 
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rodfac

New member
Scandium framed....38 Spl +P load with 158 grainers or heaven forbid, .357 will have HEROIC RECOIL....just sayin'...save your wrists for old age, get a gun that's heavier & yep, the same H&K speedloader marked for the model 36 Smith will work just fine with your 340 if you the courage to reload it after the first five!! Rod
 
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A

Alan0354

New member
rodfac said:
Scandium framed....38 Spl +P load with 158 grainers or heaven forbid, .357 will have HEROIC RECOIL....just sayin'...save your wrists for old age, get a gun that's heavier & yep, the same H&K speedloader marked for the model 36 Smith will work just fine with your 340 if you the courage to reload it after the first five!! Rod
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I shot Model 37 with different loads, it's not that bad. It's a little heavier, but not that much.

I just stay with +P, not going to .357.

I don't know why people talk so much about recoil, it never bother me. If you talk recoil, I shot a Freedom Arm .22Mag with 1" barrel. Now you are talking about recoil. The gun is max out 4oz, fit into the palm of a small hand. I shot single handed and it didn't bother me. So it's LOUD!!!

I practice with a Ruger MKII bull barrel, I went competition with a 45 Gold Cup. I practice once before competition and it's good enough. Recoil never bother me at all.

I don't want to get into debate, I shoot with hands relax, not squeeze the handle. The more I squeeze the handle tight, the more my hand shake and more I feel the recoil because I fight it. I relax and just let the gun bounce up. I don't feel the recovery time is longer at all. It's the same and it's a lot more comfortable. That's just me.

OK, I never shot a .44Mag, .357Mag didn't bother me at all even with a 2 1/2" barrel revolver.

Ha ha, you know recoil of what gun shock me?..... 12 gauge shot gun!!! That was recoil!!!, My shoulder was black and blue afterwards. I thought those AR15 must be strong too, NOT. It's only a little more than those .22LR. I was bracing for recoil and then "pud"!!!! that's it!!!!
 
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