Ruger calls it a target trigger and implies that it's a special part.
However, to date, I have yet to find a Mark II of any model that didn't come with one installed from the factory.
The adjustment screw is tightened all the way down, so you have to take the gun all apart and then back the screw out a little at a time until it just barely releases the sear.
The Mark II pistols have a VERY nice trigger after you remove all the overtravel. If you want them to be a little nicer, you can shim the trigger to prevent side-to-side movement and then polish the sear a bit. In the past, I have cut a half a coil to a full coil off the trigger return spring (located in the trigger under the plunger), but the last two I have worked on I didn't do it and couldn't really tell the difference in the final trigger pull.
As for dryfiring while disassembled. You don't need to worry. By the time you get it taken apart to the point that you can work on the trigger, the mainspring has been out of the gun for awhile. Remember, that's the first part that you remove.
You'll have to push the hammer forward with your thumb while pulling the trigger.
BTW, there is a retaining spring holding in the trigger pin. Don't just drive the pin out--when you depress the spring properly the pin will push out easily.