Ruger SRH barrel weight concept

CarbineWilliams

New member
The more I fire my .454 Casull Super Redhawk, the more I'd like to have some more weight on the barrel. I came up with this idea for using eMachineShop's software for a screw-on-able accessory that would add some weight to the barrel to improve shootability. Also, I was considering adding a picatinny rail on the bottom of it. It'll have long 3mm x around 16 mm cheese head screws (considering different connection system) to mate the two halves together.

I figure that splitting it down the middle and having a left and right side would be the best way to go, stress wise. I figure most of the stress would be up and down when the weapon fires. However, if someone with experience recommends seperating it into top and bottom halves would be better I'm all ears. Or, I'd be interested if someone thinks that instead of holes going all the way through, keep it solid and have recesses for straps on the top and bottom that are screwed in.

Anyway, the more I shoot this revolver the more I feel like it's a little ass-heavy. I've been looking at different materials for this thing. Brass.... 2x as much $$$ as steel... Ledloy steel (probably best choice... I'd have to do some more machining and coat it)... guess I could even request Tungsten.

Here's the pics:

AdobePhotoshop_2012-06-23_17-24-42.jpg


emachineshopcom3DPreview_2012-06-23_17-25-27.jpg



emachineshopcom3DPreview_2012-06-23_17-25-10.jpg


emachineshopcom3DPreview_2012-06-23_17-12-13.jpg


eMachineShopv176-CUsersDWDesktopmark2ems_2012-06-23_17-25-43.jpg


I think I'll probably drop the jaggies of the top... they looked cool while I was designing it but serve no purpose except adding cost.
 
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Nomadicone

New member
Well you may have something there although the biggest complaint I hear on the Super Rehawk is the already excessive weight. I suppose if you use it a lot at the range you can attached them and if you are going for a long stroll up the mountain take them off.

I solved my problem with the Super Redhawk 454 by selling it. :D
 

CarbineWilliams

New member
LOL. I hear you. I have no problem at all with the weight, just the balance. I just put on some XS Express sights and that alone makes a huge difference in settling the sights by using a different 'sight philosophy'. Setting a round dot at the bottom of a V feels a lot more natural and doable than getting an I to stop in the middle of a U (default Ruger sights).

Still, I don't want to take anything off of the barrel length but it seems like when I pull the trigger... by the time the round exits the barrel the gun has already started it's recoil rotation. I'm thinking adding a little weight to it will help that.
 

Venom1956

New member
May I offer some suggestions?

First off right now your design looks like it is clearly 'bolted' on no offense if that's the look your going for. I would also recommend against a rail on the bottom. it would be far easier to radius the bottom and D&T it for a add-on rail.

Ok mounting. your in luck the SRH has two great points for mounting something on it! U can use the front notch for the scope ring and the interchangeable front sight!

If u want i could help u design it but fabing it your on your own... =( no CNC for me.
 

BIG P

New member
I like it also,Would it add to much weight if you were to come back to the forward ring mount lug of the scope? I have no problem with weight either.

Thats a interesting idea,keep us up on how it works out.
 

CarbineWilliams

New member
I sure considered using one or both of the mounting rings, and b-square actually used to make a full length scope rail that would go from the rear sight all the way to front sight. Unfortunately they don't seem to make it anymore. I was going to modify one of those to hold tungsten weights along the barrel, but that rail is aluminum and I could picture that thing snapping in two and flying over my shoulder and hitting the range boss in the head or something.

I also wanted to leave the scope mounts open. I don't use them right now, but I might want to try a scope someday.

Take a look at the strapped version above (screw holes would be in the recesses, of course). I think that's what I will go with because having 3mm x 20mm screws holding the sides together seems prone to failure, especially with the force going across the threads.

The strapped version will probably look a little less bolt-on, though I'm OK with that look. That SRH in the picture is target-grey but I polished mine so it's stainless. Figure this thing will be cerakoted or duracoated anyway on some appropriate color.

emachineshopcom3DPreview_2012-06-24_11-08-30.jpg


Note that this software puts the drill holes all the way through, but I'll get screws 6mm long. I'm not looking to drill any holes in the barrel itself.
 
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warningshot

New member
It is "Day-Zaw-Voo" again.

Looks like PPC, Police Pistol Combat, state of the art 1979 all over again.

In the 1970s, 80s and 90s, there was a pistol shooting sport refered to as, PPC. Back then, in the olden days, 'they' took perfectly good S&W M27s M28s, any unattended K frame including 5 screw Smiths, along with a few Colts too, even yes...Pythons...and bolted, welded, screwed, and otherwise permenately attached all manner of ports, weights, compensators, and recoil reducers of all kinds, on to what many refer to today as, 'Classic Revolvers' all in the name of improvement.

Do not listen to me. I would have advised not to included indoor plumming in 1900 new home construction due to the high cost. What? Has the outhouse ever failed you yet?
 

CarbineWilliams

New member
Venom: yeah, it'll look a combination of what you had done (awesome!) and something out of Blade Runner.

WarningShot: I do actually like the way SRH looks just like it is... pictures don't do 'em justice. They kind of grow on you, in person. So I'm definitely focusing on making this removable and reversible. Best of both worlds.
 
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