I am looking at a Ruger #1 in 22-250 that a friend of mine offered to sell me, and I have never owned one or fired one before. Are they accurate? How hard is it to upgrade the trigger? if I ever shot out the barrel, are they easy to replace like a bolt action with only a lathe and barrel wrench or is it a factory only deal? do they stay pretty tight? are they strong? who likes or dis-likes them, and why? If I ever decided to customize it, does any company make different styles of wood for them or pretty much only factory stuff?
Ruger Number 1 ? what should I know?
- Thread starter oldcars
- Start date
See if your friend will let you shoot it. About half of mine required tinkering with the fore end "hanger" , thats the extension on the reciever that holds the extracter spring and the fore stock mounts to: a minor job but probably necessary to get MOA or so.
Mine were all hunting rifles and I found the factory triggers acceptable , the owners manual will tell you how to make minor adjustments.
The barrel is not hard but , you have to install and headspace the barrel , then mark it for the extractor , remove the barrel and cut the extractor slot , then reinstall the barrel. Ruger will not sell you an extractor so make sure you have one if you plan on going with a cartridge with a different rim size.
Not sure about the wood ; the ones I bought were all from Fagen(?sp.).Out of buisness for quite a few years now.
They are strong enough for ANYTHING you might want. Only downside I can think of is the standard rifle is a bit heavy for anything short of the big magnums.
Do they stay tight? I had a 1B in .243AI that I used for a long range coyote rifle for about 20 years, sold it to a guide/outfitter friend about 12 years ago who is still using it to drop antalope.
At one time or another I've had at least one of everything Ruger makes and in my opinion the #1 is they only thing they got right!
Let us know how it goes!
Mine were all hunting rifles and I found the factory triggers acceptable , the owners manual will tell you how to make minor adjustments.
The barrel is not hard but , you have to install and headspace the barrel , then mark it for the extractor , remove the barrel and cut the extractor slot , then reinstall the barrel. Ruger will not sell you an extractor so make sure you have one if you plan on going with a cartridge with a different rim size.
Not sure about the wood ; the ones I bought were all from Fagen(?sp.).Out of buisness for quite a few years now.
They are strong enough for ANYTHING you might want. Only downside I can think of is the standard rifle is a bit heavy for anything short of the big magnums.
Do they stay tight? I had a 1B in .243AI that I used for a long range coyote rifle for about 20 years, sold it to a guide/outfitter friend about 12 years ago who is still using it to drop antalope.
At one time or another I've had at least one of everything Ruger makes and in my opinion the #1 is they only thing they got right!
Let us know how it goes!
Hog Buster
New member
"Ruger Number 1 ? what should I know?"
Make the first shot count.
Make the first shot count.
.300 Weatherby Mag
New member
Here's a representative group from my #1V in 22-250 that the previous owner said didn't shoot all that well.. I just took a couple boxes of what I had laying around out to the range... 5 shots, 50 grain Accu Tip Factory loads at 100 yards... Granted I want tighter.. But this isn't bad for a first time out...
.. I just took a couple boxes of what I had laying around out to the range... 5 shots, 50 grain Accu Tip Factory loads at 100 yards... Granted I want tighter.. But this isn't bad for a first time out...
Kreyzhorse
New member
They are great guns. I own a 45-70 Gov't and it's very accurate. See if your buddy will let you shoot his and make your decision from there.
.300 Weatherby Mag
New member
If its a #1V... The Leupold VX-3 6.5-20x50MM has enough tube to make it work and still have enough eye relief..
BusGunner007
New member
Here's something you should know:
I was caught up in getting a No.1, looking at the RUGER catalog at the pawn shop.
I got to the accessory page where there was a nicely engraved floorplate and said ( ready? ):
"Hey! That'd look real nice on that No.1..."
As soon as that came out of my mouth, I was like:
The guys at the shop all looked at me:
It took a long time to live that one down.
For those of you that don't get it: There IS NO FLOORPLATE on a No.1
I was caught up in getting a No.1, looking at the RUGER catalog at the pawn shop.
I got to the accessory page where there was a nicely engraved floorplate and said ( ready? ):
"Hey! That'd look real nice on that No.1..."
As soon as that came out of my mouth, I was like:
The guys at the shop all looked at me:
It took a long time to live that one down.
For those of you that don't get it: There IS NO FLOORPLATE on a No.1
I thik that 22-250 should shoot just fine First off, I collect Ruger #1 rifles. I have found that the #1 "B" and the one #1 "V" model that I have they have tiny holes in the barrel usually shoot very nice groups. The #1V in .223 Rem. is a consistant half inch gun as is the #1B in .257 Robt. Tiny holes make for stiff barrels and stiff barrels usually are good shooters. On the otherhand, My#1A in .243 is only a one inch gun at best. I have two #1B's in 30-06 and neither shoot worth a damn. Then, surprisinly, the #1B and #1S I have in .300 Win. Mag. are both sub-MOA. Go figure. However, to be totally honest all my #1's have those contract Wilson barrels and quality is rather spotty with them. My favorite #1 in an "A" model in 7x57. Accuracy was shotgun patterns and a chamber cast made by my gunsmith showed a 2" throat. That's one hell of a free bore. I sent that one back to Ruger and while it took 7 months for me to get the gun back, it was a good shooter when it came back. Whether Ruger used another Wilson barrel or one of the ones they now make on their own, I dunno. All I know is it wll put five shots int about an inch and a quarter consistantly and that's fine by me. I've always held the thought that a rifle that shoots 1.5" consistantly is just fine for big game hunting. Anything better is just gravy.
And yes, I hut with my #1's.
Paul B.
I have found that the #1 "B" and the one #1 "V" model that I have they have tiny holes in the barrel usually shoot very nice groups. The #1V in .223 Rem. is a consistant half inch gun as is the #1B in .257 Robt. Tiny holes make for stiff barrels and stiff barrels usually are good shooters. On the otherhand, My#1A in .243 is only a one inch gun at best. I have two #1B's in 30-06 and neither shoot worth a damn. Then, surprisinly, the #1B and #1S I have in .300 Win. Mag. are both sub-MOA. Go figure. However, to be totally honest all my #1's have those contract Wilson barrels and quality is rather spotty with them. My favorite #1 in an "A" model in 7x57. Accuracy was shotgun patterns and a chamber cast made by my gunsmith showed a 2" throat. That's one hell of a free bore. I sent that one back to Ruger and while it took 7 months for me to get the gun back, it was a good shooter when it came back. Whether Ruger used another Wilson barrel or one of the ones they now make on their own, I dunno. All I know is it wll put five shots int about an inch and a quarter consistantly and that's fine by me. I've always held the thought that a rifle that shoots 1.5" consistantly is just fine for big game hunting. Anything better is just gravy.And yes, I hut with my #1's.
Paul B.
I think I know just enough about this to be dangerous...
The answer is, "It might be." While the Ruger No.1 triggers have adjustment screws, I believe at some point Ruger (deliberately) made changes so these screws don't really do anything to adjust engagement or overtravel. Almost for sure they don't adjust "pull".
So, if it is an older No. 1, the adjustment screws may be functional.
I remember reading that Canjar had a replacement trigger for the No. 1 that replicated the original design, but that these are no longer manufactured. If you want one of these, you have to get lucky at an auction, I guess.
Kepplinger has a very nice (and very expensive) set trigger for the No. 1, so there is a way to improve the trigger, if you really want to.
I don't think there is anything like a Timney or Rifle Basix "drop-in" for the No. 1, however.
There are a few gunsmiths who can work on the Ruger No. 1 trigger and get it to a nice 3 lb. pull with no creep. As it was explained to me, the geometry of the trigger isn't "easy Winchester M70", but it can be done, if you have the experience. This is the route I took, when I had two No. 1's rebuilt.
bamaranger
New member
Number 1's
I have wanted a Ruger #1 for a long time. Early ones are rumored to be near "custom production" rifles and quality is extremely high throughout the series.
The fore end hanger business can be an issue, but there is a good bit of knowledge and advice on how to fix any accuracy woes on that score.
I like the longer tubes available in the single shot platform, w/o creating an overly long total length. The 24 & 26 inch tubes render an overall length comparable to 22 inch bolt rifles. You get higher velocity, but not a long clunky rifle.
Mine will be a .270 if the day ever comes.
I have wanted a Ruger #1 for a long time. Early ones are rumored to be near "custom production" rifles and quality is extremely high throughout the series.
The fore end hanger business can be an issue, but there is a good bit of knowledge and advice on how to fix any accuracy woes on that score.
I like the longer tubes available in the single shot platform, w/o creating an overly long total length. The 24 & 26 inch tubes render an overall length comparable to 22 inch bolt rifles. You get higher velocity, but not a long clunky rifle.
Mine will be a .270 if the day ever comes.
"Cool, thanks for all the information guys! I will ask if I can shoot the gun before I buy it. I can get it for $450 with rings but no scope, is that a decent price?"
That's a pretty good price. Around my neck of the woods used #1's with just rings and no scope are going for around the $600 to $750 range at local gun shows depending on the model and chambering. Some of the more scarce chamberings will go over $1,000.
Paul B.
That's a pretty good price. Around my neck of the woods used #1's with just rings and no scope are going for around the $600 to $750 range at local gun shows depending on the model and chambering. Some of the more scarce chamberings will go over $1,000.
Paul B.