Ruger cylinder binding

4

44 AMP

Staff
A friend gave me an SP 101 to "check out" that has a problem with the cylinder binding. I have done a search, but found nothing exactly like this problem. It binds when swung out. With the cylinder open, it does not revolve freely. Something is causing drag, to the point where the gun cannot be operated without turning the cylinder by hand. It is that stiff.

I figured that there might be something inside that may be cleaned, but I don't know how to remove the cylinder, or even remove the crane, for that matter. It isn't like S&W. Another friend suggested that the rod the cylinder revolves on might be bent. This was just brainstorming, he has not seen the gun.

It doesn't seem bent (at least to my eye), and the cylinder closes just fine, and I am hoping there is just some crud inside, and once it gets cleaned it will be ok, but I am at a loss as to how to do it.

Is there an easy (at home) way to take apart the cylinder/crane? If not, then not, and I will, as a last resort tell him to send the gun back to Ruger, but I would like to know what is wrong with it, and fix it if I can.

The cylinder opens and closes into the frame fine. But it will not turn freely, even when open. You can turn it with your fingers, but it is stiff.

Any ideas?
 
C

copenhagen

New member
First off, I would imagine that there is some dirt or crud or carbon build-up on the internal load-bearing surfaces where the cylinder rotates. I just took my SP101 apart and here are the pictures. The last two show the wholes where I think you may have dirt build-up. I would imagine a thorough cleaning would help her out quite a bit. It is not recommended by Ruger that you take down the trigger group anymore than I have illustrated. If the pictures are not enough, let me know, and I'll see if I can get some more detailed ones for you if you get stuck.

IMG00152.jpg

IMG00153.jpg

IMG00155.jpg

IMG00158.jpg

IMG00160.jpg
 
A

alfred

New member
You folk make me feel real good!

Thanks!I don't got one but I enjoyed the photos and seeing how it is made.Most of all the help!

This is what I like about the firing Line.You have a lot of folk trying to help each other.We called it "being neighborly","we called it being being friendly",We called it "looking after each other" and considered it a moral obligation.It is alive and well on here.It really makes me feel good way down deep inside.It makes my day!It relay does!:)

I AIN'T DEAD AND I AIN'T QUITTING!alfred
 
C

chris in va

New member
Copenhagen, quick question. I tried to take down my SP the other day, got as far as the trigger group. For the life of me I couldn't get it to swing down when pushing on the button through the handle. I don't think it's ever been taken apart, and my cylinder is getting a little gummed up like the OP.
 
C

copenhagen

New member
Chris, you have to push rather smartly, I think the ideal tool would be an elongated thin punch or a small screw driver like I used. Push at the bottom of the button, the part that is closest to the heal of the grip (it is a small flat area after the taper where you want to put pressure.) As you're pushing on the button, it may help to pull down behind the trigger, as it pivots in front of the trigger assembly inside the frame. I find that sometimes it helps if I push the button and pull the trigger group simultaneously. If the button will not go down, maybe some WD40 or 'Break-Free' will help.
 
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Nekron

New member
Question for copenhagen: How do you get the cylinder off of the crane? Mine doesn't come off and the manual won't say how to do it; actually, they don't "recommend" it.
 
C

copenhagen

New member
When you have the trigger group removed, if you let the cylinder out of place, as in showing clear, the crane and cylinder assembly will slide right out with little or no effort, and then the cylinder simply slides off of the crane when the entire crane/cylinder assembly is removed from the revolver. Part of the ejector assembly will stay in the cylinder, but can be held out against the spring tension with your fingers for cleaning. There is a screw inside the cylinder that can facilitate the removal of that part, but I wouldn't recommend it- :rolleyes: The trigger group holds the crane and cylinder in place, and locks the cylinder for firing.
 
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Nekron

New member
So, once the crane and cylinder are out of the frame the cylinder should just slide right off the crane?

Any idea if Redhawks work the same way?


Thanks for the reply, BTW. :)
 
4

44 AMP

Staff
Well, ok, thank you very much

I got the thing apart, and cleaning the crane freed up the cylinder. Now, how the heck do you get it back together? What is the trick? I know there is a trick with the Ruger Mark I pistol (learned that one the hard way), but what is the trick for getting the trigger group back in on this SP 101?

I'll keep messing with it, and maybe I'll figure it out myself, but some advice sure would be helpful about now. Thanks again.
 
4

44 AMP

Staff
OK, never mind, I got it

Thanks for the help, it was very useful, and I couldn't have done it without your great pictures. Again, thank you.
 
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rantingredneck

New member
Trigger group goes back in the same way it came out. You'll have to push in a little on the same "button" you pushed on to get it out.

Only trick on the SP101 is making sure you have the pawl and transfer bar aligned correctly when you drop them in. There's a little cutout channel that the pawl has to ride in.
 
4

44 AMP

Staff
Thanks again for all the help

Gun is clean, together, and functions well. I'll be havin' a few words with the owner, when I see him.;)
 
C

copenhagen

New member
rantingredneck: Dead on about aligning the pawl and transfer.

44 AMP: Not a problem- I'm glad we have this forum as a resource to help and recieve help on issues.
 
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