Ruger basepin question

hickstick_10

New member
Have a ruger blackhawk with a 4.75 inch barrel in 357 magnum.

The ejector rod does not totally push out magnum cases, usually i have to pick each one (factory loads)

My question is, the part of the base pin you grasp to pull it forward seems much longer than normal (compared to a SAA) and this stops the ejector from moving farther back, do I have a wrong base pin installed and has anyone else had this problem?
 

Malamute

New member
The stock setup on Rugers is pretty sorry regarding extracting/ejecting empties. You probably have the correct base pin, they are longer than Colts or older Rugers so that the base pin can't come completely out of the gun when it's out to remove the cylinder. There's a couple things you can do. Some aftermarket base pins may be available that are shorter up front. A Colt style base pin would be good, tho Colt and Ruger base pins aren't interchangable.

There's a couple other things you can do. One is technique, the other is change the extractor rod. The aftermarket rods I've used (Colt copy replacements) seemed to be a little bit longer than the factory Ruger rods. When installing them, they are actually a bit too long. I file them shorter til they stick out into the cylinder window a small amount, but wont interfer with removing the cylinder. One more part to help get cases clear. I put a Colt type extractor rod with bullseye end on it. The stock Ruger extractor rod heads are tiny. The bullseye or crescent type are a big improvement, and a cam cut extractor rod housing is also an improvement, as it allows the head to cam away from the barrel while using it, and cam back close when its at rest. Both parts are availble from one or two aftermarket parts makers.

I've shortened the factory base pins and reshaped them on all my Rugers (I detest the factory style base pin heads). Here's a pic of one I did. When shortening them, the extractor rod spring will stack up solid and needs to be shortened about 6 or 7 coils, then stretched again. It also seems to help when first assembling the stretched spring to compress it and let the rod snap back to rest several times, it never seems to have any troubles after that, otherwise its sticky at first. After doing these things, my rod comes about 3/16" past the rear of the frame at its maximum extension. This helps clear cases completely out of the gun when using the rod. The other part of the answer is technique. There are likely other ways, but I put the butt into my solar plexus, hold the gun and rotate the cylinder with my left hand, and punch the rod with my right hand. Yes, punch the rod. I slam it hard. The cases go out under the left arm end up on the ground at about 8 o'clock (behind and beside me on my left) about 3 or 4 feet behind me when done. It takes 2 or 3 seconds to completely empty the gun this way.

Watching many shooters struggling with single actions, fiddling with each case, shaking the gun, and other slow frustrating techniques, I don't doubt that they find they dislike SA's, and think they are terrifically low to operate. Yes, they're a bit slower than DA's, but it doesnt have to be quite that bad.

IMG_1064.jpg
 
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hickstick_10

New member
Thanks for the reply gentleman

I'l chuck up that old base pin and turn her to a more SAA shape, thanks again very much for your help.
 

Malamute

New member
It's pretty easy if you have a drill press or a lathe. I cut them off at the farthest forward groove, round the end, add a groove in the middle, and remove most of the flange. Also give a nice largish groove near the back, just ahead of the flange, similar to Colts. If yours has only a small groove on one side for the base pin latch, it's worth making it a ring all the way around, then you can remove enough of the flange that it won't hang up on the barrel, and making the base pin non-indexed against the barrel (free to spin or rotate all the way around). It's frustrating to have the remains of the flange hang up when you're trying to remove or replace the base pin.
 

Jim March

New member
There's another way of skinning this cat, that I've seen pictures of somewhere.

Some gunsmith got the bright idea of taking the groove in the ejector housing that the ejector head rides down and extending it in a curve around the base pin head. In other words, you end up with the ability to shift the ejector rod head sideways as it gets closer and then PAST the base pin end.

As a bonus, this doesn't just extend your ejector stroke, it also lets you remove the base pin from the gun completely without a screwdriver (in other words, without removing the ejector housing, rod and spring). You just push the ejector head in and past the base pin and then pull the base pin.

Very slick.

Mind you, chopping the base pin head shorter isn't a crazy idea either. If you don't have the tooling to do it yourself, Belt Mountain has a couple of options: "Colt Style" and even shorter "Sheriff's Model" base pins for Ruger New Models. If you have a mid-size frame (New Vaquero or similar) that's a different part, be sure and specify...the new mid-frame parts do exist, but they're not listed on his website yet.

http://www.beltmountain.com
 

CraigC

Moderator
A Belt Mt. #5 basepin is shorter than the factory pin and has the benefit of a better grip as well. I put them on almost all my guns, including SAA types. However, proper technique usually gets those empties out with the factory pin. You should be giving the empties a good pop, not just a gentle push.
 

Malamute

New member
The shorter base pin heads, either shortened factory or aftermarket Colt style, allow the base pin to come out completely.


Would the modified groove in the housing slow the extractor rod stroke down? If you want the empties to clear the gun, slowing down the rod may be problematic. Sounds like it may be more work than simply shortening the base pin head, but perhaps I'm missing something in the details.
 

hickstick_10

New member
He means the button that pushes the ejector rod swivels down in a spiral, with the button "the parts thats hitting the base pin" ending up on one side of the the base pin instead, allowing more travel to the ejector rod without altering the base pin, speed is irrelevant if theres enough travel to totally eject the case.

Cool idea by the way.
 
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