Most of the other .44 Carbines in my party will do as well.
All are tube feed old model Auto Carbines, purchased "used".
(The odd man out shoots/hunts/uses a Rem 742)
The ones that don't appear as accurate look to have a bit of rifling/crown wear from some previous owner's over-zealous cleaning regimen. (FWIW, I only wipe out my bore once a year)
Some carbines are scoped (none over 3x), some are peep-sighted, and one uses the issue open/iron sights and another a red dot sight.
One of the above has been restocked in a Fajen mannlicher-type, full-length stock, the rest are as issued.
Mine wore a 2x scope when I shot that 100yd group, but I've since switched back to a peep sight on it.
My peep sight groups are only slightly larger - go figure.
I've also glass-bedded the rear action seat into the stock, on mine and two of the others - since they were enough out of line that the barrels were held slightly off-center of the barrel channel sans barrel band, which I felt was affecting accuracy negatively.
The inside/bottom of the barrel band(s) should be filed for clearance, so it they can be screwed together TIGHT.
I've also found that they all shoot somewhat tighter, if they're benched/targeted like they're hunted - with NO part of the gun touching anything other than a body part.
The ones I have shot shoot best when held tightly in both hands and pulled firmly back into the shoulder, while leaving the trigger finger free to function.
That means not resting the forend or barrel on a sandbag or other front rest, nor letting the butt rest in a sandbag or rear rest or touching the bench.
I hold the forend in my forward hand tightly, with that hand between forend and rest while pulling down and back at the same time.
I grasp the PG tightly also, pulling the butt hard, straight back into my shoulder.
YMMV, of course.
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