Ruger .22 Semi-autos misfiring

cpaspr

New member
Have two, a Standard model, and a bull-barrel Mark II.

Both just cleaned and lubed, put back together correctly. Bolt snapped back clean and hard after reassembly. My wife only got about 15-20 rounds through the Standard yesterday before it started messing up. FTEd twice.

Both have been messing up recently. Is it ammo (mostly Remington fully jacketed hollowpoints bulkpack from Walmart), magazines or what? :confused:

Any suggestions?

And please, don't say "Get a XXXXXXX." These are what we have, and these are what I'm inquiring about. Smart-alecks just waste everybody's time. :mad:
 

JR47

Moderator
Try another brand of ammo. CCI is good. If the problem continues, check the extractors for failure, or buildup of crud under the hook. Then check the magazines for weak springs, or a gummed up magazine tube. You might also want to clean out the extractor slots in the receiver.:)
 

CajunBass

New member
I would tend to suspect the ammo, since it's happening with both guns. Could just be a bad batch. I had a brick of Federal stuff once that gave me fits in my 22/45. Switched ammo and the problem went away. Probably the next brick of the same ammo would work just fine.
 

J.D.B.

New member
I found the Remington to be the most filthy, gummy, poop in my Government model. Yes do try something else. Mine doesn't like the CCI Mini-Mag, but any other CCI works well.
Josh
 

Minator

New member
if you try other ammo and the problem persits check the extractor I had bought a used one and tried 5 brands of ammo and it kept having fte's even after being cleaned, brought it to the local smith and he changed extractor and and its worked find ever since he said the extractor was worn down
 

clayking

New member
It's the frigging ammo. Had the same problems with the Rem hollow points, loading problems, wouldn't fire, wouldn't eject in my Mark111. Went to a couple of other shells and no problem Went back to the Rem, and started all over again. Even shot the Rem thunderbolt and it was ok. Use those rem hollow points in a revolver............................ck
 

topspin43

New member
Limp wristing???

Don't overlook this... because a .22 has so little recoil, we tend to limpwrist them even more than higher calibers. If anything, a .22 requires a stronger hold since the charge is less than sometimes necessary to operate the slide properly.
 

Sir William

New member
A few ideas. First, flush it with aerosol Brakleen brake parts cleaner. Pay attention to the ejector. Wear eye protection! Second, borrow another magazine from a fellow shooter who knows their magazine is OK. Third, pour Zippo lighter fluid through the pistol action while holding it barrel up. Allow to evaporate and relube with Remoil lightly. Fourth, strip the pistol down and check for wear and tear. Fifth, contact Ruger, send it back or if Ruger OKs, send both of them back. I have good luck with CCI/Speer Velocitors.
 

cpaspr

New member
More info

I guess I need to revise my original post. My definition of lubing and that of a local friend vary. He recommends a light amount of lube on the whole bolt; I only applied it to the bottom edges. It makes sense that it should go on the entire bolt, as all of the bolt has bearing surfaces.

That, possibly, combined with the good info on the ammo, may get these two shooting the way they should.

I hope so, they're among my favorites to shoot.
 

hummelsander

New member
I run the CCI mini mags. It jams once in a while. But mine used to be a range gun. It's seen serveral thousand rounds...so if it jams once in a while I don't mind. I was told that I should replace the recoil spring...haven't done that but I bet it would help.

.22's are supposed to jam once in a while cause they're .22's...kinda goes with the caliber doesn't it?
 

nemesis

New member
Is it ammo (mostly Remington fully jacketed hollowpoints bulkpack from Walmart), magazines or what?

I used to use (cheap) Remington ammo in my Buckmark but had just toooo many problems with it. I even had a full case separation. The cartridge exploded and just lift the rim on the extractor. I had to pry the remainder of the cartridge out of the chamber.

I've switched to Federal and Winchester and put my problems behind me.
 

Kowboy

New member
A guy at the gun store told me too much lubrication can be as bad as too little. Does he know what he is talking about?
 

chris in va

New member
I had a couple MkII bull barrels. I'd get misfires all the time.

Next time it happens, put the round back in the mag and hit it in a different spot. Bet it goes off. I've only had 4 or 5 full duds.

I do seem to remember Remingtons being somewhat more dud prone...
 

Hal

New member
A guy at the gun store told me too much lubrication can be as bad as too little. Does he know what he is talking about?
Yep.
Too much lube and it quits trying to be a gun and starts trying to be a hydraulic pump. Too much lube, and the moving parts have to do extra work to displace it. Slides and bolts start to slow down, and along with the slow down, come ejection and feed problems.

I'm a big believer in the theory that "if you can see the lube, you have ten times too much on it". <-- a bit blown out of proportion, but you catch the drift. When they say a drop or two,,,that's exactly what it means.
 

Onapar

New member
Remington bulk is the worst

I have a Mk2 & a Mk3 and niether one likes the remington I had problems with both guns. Switched to Federal and win dyna points no more trouble.
 

hummelsander

New member
Mine doesn't like Remington either. But, I don't think it's the gun as much as it is the cartidge. I've had them ftf in revolvers too.
 

Dwight55

New member
cpaspr, . . . I guess I didn't fully understand, . . . your thread title was misfire, and then you talk about FTE's.

A true misfire, is a "failure to fire" whereas an FTE is a failure to eject.

Either can be caused by junk ammo, . . . and as previously mentioned, Remington bulk ammo is one of the worst.

Addressing the FTE, . . . make sure your ejector moves back and forth easily, it should move with the tip of your forefinger (if I remember my Ruger correctly that I no longer own). It requires lubrication to be continuously reliable.

Addressing the FTF, . . . lock your bolt back, . . . take a flashlight, . . . look into the bolt opening, . . . pay particular attention to the crease at the back end of the barrel, . . . by the bolt housing, . . . at what would be about 8 o'clock as you look toward the back end of the chamber. My Ruger would allow a pile up of junk there, . . . and it was just enough after 150 or so rounds to keep the bolt from completely closing, . . . and misfires would start happening. A sharp pointed pocket knife was the perfect cleaning tool, . . . but it was so aggravating to be rolling along on a good string of shots, . . . and "click" instead of "bang". Sometimes during regular cleaning, I wouldn't get it all, . . . and it would occur sooner on the next shooting outing.

May God bless,
Dwight

PS: And I am really going to do my very best to be a good neighbor and not remind anyone that these things don't happen with either of our Brownings.:D
 

Colduglandon

New member
Not to jump the thread but....

have a friend with Ruger Mark III. At the range the other night there was a problem with a failure to fire. The round chambered correctly but when the trigger was pulled nothing happened. However, when the trigger was pulled a second time without doing anything else to the gun, the weapon discharged. This happened twice within the span of 20 rounds being fired. Anyone seen this before, whats up with this. Never saw this before. No problem with bullets ejecting or feeding properly.

Hmm.
 

XavierBreath

New member
At the range the other night there was a problem with a failure to fire. The round chambered correctly but when the trigger was pulled nothing happened. However, when the trigger was pulled a second time without doing anything else to the gun, the weapon discharged.
I suspect the pistol may have been having a problem going into battery. On the first pull of the trigger,the hammer was not released. We know this because you pulled the trigger a second time without doing anything else to the gun, and the weapon fired. Had the hammer been released on the first trigger pull, it could not be released again without cocking the weapon again.

Other explanations could be hangfires, a very dangerous delayed ignition of the round. Hangfires are a possibility with any "dud" round. The timing of the triggerpull/ignition happening multiple times raises the odds against that though.

If you have an adjustment screw in your trigger, give it a bit more overtravel. If you do not have a screw, when was the last time the pistol had a detail cleaning?
 
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