Ruger 10/22 bolt release (upgrade)

[blume357]

I spent my Sunday cleaning guns and working on my 10/22's.

When I first started modifying one of my 10/22's a few years back it seems I put a Voltsquarsen (sp?) modified bolt release on it. Until recently I never really used the bolt lock on my rifles... then I got a Charger and did some metallic silhouette competition with it and also went to an Appleseed with a different 10/22... both required you lock the bolt open when 'cold' and the standard factory bolt release is a pure pain... I've never been able to get it to release easy and quick and have to fiddle with it... as compared to the Volts. one.

Yesterday I decided to break down the trigger groups on both 10/22's and see what the difference was and if there was a way to modify the factory part or if I needed to order one. Well the modification was simple.... did take me about three tries to get it filed down right. The nice thing is I don't think you can really mess this up... and it doesn't make the gun unsafe or so it won't shoot by doing this. Here's a picture of the different pieces .....

I'm not so sure the upper right part is needed... I filed down the nipple in the lower left hole about half way (as pictured in the Iowegan book) and it didn't work.. then I did the upper right filing and it still didn't help.. then I filed the original lower left hole more and it worked... but I was trying to get it to match the volquartsen one.

 

[Pahoo]

blume357
I have been modifying mine for a couple of years now, all in the name of tinkering and basically because I'm "frugile". You can buy a modified one for about $10.00. Basically remove the "teet" as you have shown on you fine pic. I then round it off again, just like you are showing on the Volt. release. I finish out by polishing the grind areas inside the hole. Now, that other cut you are showing, I have never noticed this so obviously, have never made this cut. The release works just find without doing this. Will have to think about that one. The steel is not soft so it takes some time and eats up you dremmel bit.

Hard to understand why Ruger doesn't supply these on all 10/22's. They really are nice to have. Must be a liabiliity thing. ...


Be Safe !!!

 

[blume357]

Pahoo,

It took me several tries, filings, to get mine to work right.... I did not take the time before I started to actually look at the part in the trigger group and figure out exactly how it works. I should have posted the picture above upside down....then it would have shown how the part sits in the trigger group.

On my second filing I took the right hand highlighted parts off.... I think this allows the part a little more 'flop' in the trigger group and is easier for the arm that sticks up to fall away from the bolt.

It's funny, I didn't even think about using my dremal tool...just used a small flat file.

 

[Pahoo]

It's funny, I didn't even think about using my dremal tool...just used a small flat file.

I have done about five of these and still have the same dremmel burr. Will admit that it's almost worn out. As you noticed, the metal is fairly hard and your file must have gotten quite a workout. I just copied the Volts on that opening and even though it took more time, I rounded it off. There was a fella on here some time ago and he just went straight and said it stuck a bit.

Since your original post, Midway now has the Volts target hammers on sale and you can get one of these bolt releases for $3.00, included in the hammer kit. They are worth having even though you have to get deep into the housing, in order to replace.

Again, thanks for your post, pictures and;
Be Safe !!!

 

[blume357]

If one goes easy with the take down... it's really not that hard to take these critters apart and put back. For 3.00 I surely would order the Volts. one and not spend the time filing down the original... I must have had a real good file because I really didn't think the metal was that hard... then again it may be different on stainless steel ones... as you can see from my picture the store bought modified one is stainless steel..... the others just seem like regular steel. if the piece sticks after filing, I would think there are burs on the metal... if you polish it a little bit it should fall right down.... I also figured out that little spring on the side of the hammer is to pull it back down... and you need to watch where the bottom part goes .... the spring should fit over that flange that sticks out the top part of the spring goes under the pin that goes through the burred out hole.