Revolver Repair

Derilas

New member
Hello,

I have this old Belgian copy of a 'RIC-ish' revolver sold into the US a very long time ago in an odd caliber, .442 Webley. I am in the middle of making the brass for it out of 44 mag, so if anyone has any advice for how to precisely shape revolver brass, I am all ears. The main reason I am writing this post is that, as one might figure, the revolver is out of time. The cylinder underrotates when the hammer is pulled back, meaning that the hand is too short, and I will attach a link to a google photos album of the hand, it is pretty chewed up. It is only off by at most 500 thousands or so, so my thoughts are, rather than making an entirely new hand assembly, I could get away with welding a new tip onto it and reshaping it until the chamber-barrel alignment is as good as it can be. any other thoughts are greatly appreciated if shared

One last thing...

This is not Lawrence of Arabia's revolver and it has almost no special historical value. It's an iron gun and the finish has been bubba'd

https://photos.google.com/album/AF1QipMcgdG88kYFZUCjWhkf0ij77MeAWMlYd1khIPXR
 
I can't see the photo(s) without signing into Google, which I'm not going to do.

Does this gun have a bolt of some sort? Chamber-to-bore alignment shouldn't be determined by the hand -- there should be a bolt to lock into the cylinder. The job of the hand is only to rotate the cylinder into position for the bolt to lock into the cylinder.
 

Derilas

New member
I can't see the photo(s) without signing into Google, which I'm not going to do.

Does this gun have a bolt of some sort? Chamber-to-bore alignment shouldn't be determined by the hand -- there should be a bolt to lock into the cylinder. The job of the hand is only to rotate the cylinder into position for the bolt to lock into the cylinder.
With modern double action revolvers that shoot high pressure rounds, yeas you need a bolt, but old circa 1870s British Tranter derived revolvers, there is no bolt, and the lock up is the hand pushing the cylinder into the cylinder stop, which is the back of the trigger, which lifts up when pulled to the rear.

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The hand is really chewed up
 
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