Removing caked on powder residue

[wvshooter]

I'm having trouble getting the area around the forcing cone clean. The powder residue that accumulates there just doesn't want to come off. I have this problem with all my revolvers.

I just spent over forty minutes scrubbing one gun with a brass bristle brush using Ballistol, Hoppes #9, Kroil, Winchester Break Free Powder Blast, Advance Auto Carb Cleaner and Advance Auto Heavy Duty Engine Degreaser. Multiple applications of each product. Most of the forcing cone buildup came off but not all of it. These guns all use ammo with smokeless powder.

 

[Sheikyourbootie]

If it's a stainless steel gun, you could try slip 2000's "Carbon Killer" I have used that on the face of my cylinder in the past. I don't worry about a little carbon deposit there or around the forcing cone. It doesn't effect function.

 

[Standing Wolf]

If you're going to shoot the gun again, assume it's going to get dirty around the barrel breech, do a reasonably good job, and live with it. If you're never going to shoot the gun, invest in an ultra-sonic cleaner, and use any ordinary gun cleaning solvent and lots of Q-Tips, dental tools, elbow grease, and patience.

 

[drail]

If you're talking about the outside surfaces of the forcing cone you just have to use solvent and a brush as you're doing now. I also have a scraping tool made from a piece of heavy gauge copper wire hammered into a flat blade shape. It will allow you to get to the outside of the cone between the cone and the frame and scrape without damaging anything. If you can't get it all off don't sweat it too much. It helps to have the metal warm (not real hot) to dissolve the fouling - a hairdryer works for this. Let your solvent soak on the metal for a while. If you're talking about the inside of the forcing cone the best way is to buy a Lewis Lead Remover - it will come with a small aluminum cone which threads onto your cleaning rod after you have inserted it into the bore from the muzzle. Place one of the small brass screens they supply between the rod and onto the cone tool and ease it down into the cone and rotate it with a little bit of pull on the rod. If it still doesn't want to come off you can wrap the cone with steel wool, copper chore boy scrub pads or in an extreme case some fine sandpaper (400 grit). It will take a while but it will come off. It really helps to smooth and polish the inside surface of the forcing cone with the 400 grit paper, it will help keep the fouling from building up and sticking to the cone. Just don't get too aggressive and cut the cone deeper or change the angle. Breakfree (the maker of CLP) has a powder solvent that works very well on carbon. Dexron automatic transmission fluid also dissolves carbon fairly well. Don't waste your time with carb cleaner or brake cleaner, they are not designed to dissolve carbon.

 

[JohnKSa]

Are you talking about an actual buildup (raised deposits) of fouling material or are you talking about the staining/carbon scoring that is visible around the forcing cone and on the front of the cylinder on stainless steel revolvers.

If it's the former, it should come off with a cleaning brush or maybe a small plastic scraper. If it's the latter, it's better to leave it alone. If you really can't stand it, you can remove it with metal polish or some other mild abrasive or some solvent, a bronze/brass toothbrush and a lot of elbow grease.

 

[bluetopper]

I soak/bathe all my handguns in diesel and use a small nylon brush and a piece of a shop towel. It does a better job than anything I've tried and makes bluing look great and a superb bore cleaner. A plastic tub of it with a lid lasts several cleanings.

 

[stevieboy]

There are two areas around the forcing cone that can be difficult to clean: between the forcing cone and the top strap of the gun; and just inside the forcing cone. I've seen carbon deposits occur in both places in some of my Smith & Wesson revolvers. The deposits look like grey or even silvery metallic lumps, easily confused with lead, but which break up into a black powder not unlike charcoal.

To remove the carbon that can build up between the top strap and the forcing cone, I take a little bit of bronze wool (available at most hardware stores), and roll it until I have a thick strand, about 1/10" thick. I work that between the forcing cone and top strap, then, work it back and forth almost as if I were using dental floss. A minute or two of that will erode away even the toughest carbon deposit without making a mark on the gun's steel surface.

For the inside of the forcing cone I often use a dental pick to very genly pick away at the carbon deposits that have built up there. Usually, that's all it takes to break up the carbon, again, without scratching the steel of the forcing cone.