Removing AR15 flash hider

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Geezerbiker

New member
I figured since this is a more specific question, I'd start a new thread. I bought a stainless muzzle brake awhile back and I can't use it on the intended rifle. It's threaded in 1/2x28. So I'd like to put it on the PSA upper I bought recently.

Is this something I can do myself or should I find a gunsmith to do it for me. I don't have a barrel vise and I'm thinking it's probably going to be a required thing for the job...

Tony
 
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kymasabe

New member
I've used my upper receiver vise block. You'll need a crush washer and usually not wrenching it down too tight, half turn it so until its timed where you like it.
 
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Geezerbiker

New member
I'm not worried about putting the muzzle break on, I'm worried about getting the flash hider off.

I put a wrench on it but I was afraid to torque it too hard and damage something in the upper assembly. Anyway I couldn't budge it with what felt like a safe amount of effort.

Tony
 
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Logs

New member
A vice is easiest with a vice block in the magwell. You can use a combination wrench, but the AR tools can be found for around $20 and do come in handy. You may need a new crush washer, sometimes they don't work that great being reused. Good Luck.

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MarkCO

New member
Call PSA and ask them if they use a thread locker on their flash hiders, and what kind. IF they did, you will want to know to remove it correctly.

25 ft-lbs is torque for muzzle devices. Don't mix metals, so that probably means use a washer shim kit or a peel washer to install the new one. Don't thread lock it, just some anti-seize and the right washer with the right torque. You can use a crescent wrench if you want...25 ft-lbs is not much.
 
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Shadow9mm

New member
M

MarkCO

New member
Sharkbite said:
Dont torque on the upper with just a mag block. You will damage stuff
Click to expand...
Yep.

If they used a thread locker I would be surprised. most of the lock-tite products are released with heat and muzzle brakes get mighty warm. I'm guessing a crush washer.
Click to expand...
Seen Rockset on lots of factory installed muzzle devices. Even with a crush washer.
 
G

Geezerbiker

New member
I used to be a motorcycle mechanic so I know what 25 foot pounds feels like... I saw how to make a barrel vice on the net and I'm going to give it a try. In my experience loctite gives way at around 150 degrees. I can easily accomplish that with an electric hot air gun. My current plan is to try that sometime in the next week.

I'd love to buy some more AR15 tools but funds are tight at the moment. I just bought a new Vortex scope, a week ago I bought the AR upper assembly and a month or so ago I paid off a small fortune getting my .22k Hornet varmint rifle fixed. My gun budget is blown for the year and maybe next year too unless I can liquidate some of my motorcycle stuff...

Tony
 
H

HiBC

New member
It can happen the muzzle brake is permanently attached via silver braze or weld or blind pin.

Typically when that is done,removing the brake results in a barrel under 16 inches,which is a problem.

Go easy on the torque .The minor dia of the 1/2 -28 threads is about 7/16.

The bore (groove dia) is .224. Subtract .224 from .430 you get .206.

So the force of threads tightening goes to a .103 (approx) wall tube. Not a great place for distortion. I'd keep it below one white knuckle of torque.

Some folks use a spark plug crush washer.
 
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imashooter

New member
Doubt if any kind of locker is on there if factory. If you have a bench vise, remove the handguard or whatever might be in the way, wrap the barrel in a rag, leather belt, etc, and secure well in vise. Closer to the muzzle the better. Put the wrench on a nd give it a try. Perhaps a cheater bar, etc. Perhaps a good whack on the wrench. Sometimes with a rag the barrel might slip. Wetting the rag can give more grip. When installing the new one, just cinch down really well and you should be fine if you don't have a torque wrench. Unless the brake specifically calls for a crush washer, etc for clocking, don't worry about it. A1/A2 flash hiders call for the washer.
 
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rickyrick

New member
It should be easy, they usually use a crush-washer, so it shouldn’t be over tightened.

You should use a new crush washer when installing a new one.
 
S

Scorch

New member
If it's LocTite holdingh it on, a torch and heating the brake will let go. Put the upper in action block or use a reaction rod and crank on it. Rockset will require near boiling water for a couple hours to break loose. Factory brakes are typically just dry and overtightened. I do a couple a week, haven't run into anything I couldn't get loose for a while. Take a look at the brake and make sure it's not pinned and welded, I did run into a SIG just last week that was pinned/welded.
 
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imashooter

New member
Depends on the locker. Different lockers break-loose specs require different heat ranges. Some lockers don't react to heat at all. Most lockers are worthless regarding securing any type of muzzle device or anywhere else on the barrel.
 
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Geezerbiker

New member
OK, guys I sent PSA a message about what I want to do thought the help center on their website. Since I'd likely not get to it for a few days anyway, I can wait for an answer...

Tony
 
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ghbucky

New member
There are states that require muzzle devices to be pinned and welded (MA is one, I believe) and guns made for those states are welded in compliance. Hence my strong advice to go to the source to find out how it is attached.
 
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STORM2

New member
Reaction Rod or other brand spline holding device is the best solution I own the 556 and 762 Reaction Rods, they are great. I seem to remember there was a brand X at one time for a better price but that was several years ago. It’s too bad the really great tools are sometime pricy and used seldom.....but priceless when you need them. Wish you were local, I’d loan you mine.
 
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