You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
Remington 700 3006, rebarrel or rebore?
- Thread starter hooligan1
- Start date
Pretty open ended question. Some more info on what you plan on using it for would be helpful. But this should give you some ideas:
http://www.pac-nor.com/standard/
http://www.pac-nor.com/wildcat/
With a 30-06 bolt you can have it rechambered in any long action cartridge with the .470 (actually .473) bolt face. A list (not complete, but a good start) can be found here:
http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=344654
http://www.pac-nor.com/standard/
http://www.pac-nor.com/wildcat/
With a 30-06 bolt you can have it rechambered in any long action cartridge with the .470 (actually .473) bolt face. A list (not complete, but a good start) can be found here:
http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=344654
Jim Watson
New member
I don't know what kind of makeover you have in mind or what you plan to use it for to recommend a caliber, but will say that rebarreling is the way to go. Any riflesmith worthy of his FFL can change the barrel on a 700 and do the "blueprinting" to get the best out of it. Rebores are nearly as expensive as a new barrel and the few places that do them usually have large backlogs and long turnaround times.
.
The least expensive way to end up with a "new" barrel, and have a very useable chambering, would be to send the barreled receiver to Jes ( http://www.35caliber.com/ ) for a rebore to .358" (.35 Whelan).
IIRC, Jes' fee is about $245 nowadays.
.
The least expensive way to end up with a "new" barrel, and have a very useable chambering, would be to send the barreled receiver to Jes ( http://www.35caliber.com/ ) for a rebore to .358" (.35 Whelan).
IIRC, Jes' fee is about $245 nowadays.
.
This rifle will be use for hunting specifically deer and elk bear...
Anything he decides to hunt on this continent.. He has already decided to go synthetic and save the original walnut...35 whelen sound great but after discussing in detail hes looking at keeping it 3006, or something that uses the same case head measurment but shoots flat and far accurately.
Anything he decides to hunt on this continent.. He has already decided to go synthetic and save the original walnut...35 whelen sound great but after discussing in detail hes looking at keeping it 3006, or something that uses the same case head measurment but shoots flat and far accurately.
There is absolutely nothing wrong with 30-06, but if having custom work done I'd at least consider going with something a bit less common. I'd be tempted to go down 1 step to 280, or up to 338/06.
I've owned both in the past. They are good rounds, but the truth is that the 30-06 with 150's will do anything the 280 will do, and with 200 gr bullets anything the 338/06 will do. But you don't give up much to the 30-06 and get to hunt with something out of the mainstream. And if someone finds that appealing there is something to be said for it. I just decided to stick to more common, boring rounds.
A 280 would be suitable for all the game mentioned and at least on paper a tiny bit flatter shooting than 30-06. Factory ammo, while not common is available.
The 338/06, at least on paper, might offer a slight advantage on larger stuff but also shoots surprisingly flat. Well enough for any hunting out to at least 300 yards. Factory ammo is available, but is expensive and hard to get. It should be considered a hand load only round.
I've owned both in the past. They are good rounds, but the truth is that the 30-06 with 150's will do anything the 280 will do, and with 200 gr bullets anything the 338/06 will do. But you don't give up much to the 30-06 and get to hunt with something out of the mainstream. And if someone finds that appealing there is something to be said for it. I just decided to stick to more common, boring rounds.
A 280 would be suitable for all the game mentioned and at least on paper a tiny bit flatter shooting than 30-06. Factory ammo, while not common is available.
The 338/06, at least on paper, might offer a slight advantage on larger stuff but also shoots surprisingly flat. Well enough for any hunting out to at least 300 yards. Factory ammo is available, but is expensive and hard to get. It should be considered a hand load only round.
Reboring and relining are different processes. Reboring involves reaming out the barrel to a larger caliber, then re-rifling the barrel. The new caliber bore diameter must be large enough to clean out all the old rifling, while being small enough that the barrel remains thick enough for safety.
Relining also involves reaming the barrel, but the rifling is not recut. Instead, a thin-wall liner is inserted into the barrel and soldered or glued in. The liner has the rifling cut in it. Since liners are fairly thin, and the glue or solder does not give good support, they cannot be used with high pressure cartridges, and lining is limited to cartridges like .22 RF, .25-20, .32-20 and the like.
(A third method is used when it is necessary to preserve original barrel markings, but where it is desired to fire high pressure rounds. It involves reaming the original barrel to a thin shell and installing a barrel thick enough by itself to contain the pressure. This is a very precise process and one done by few shops.)
Jim
Relining also involves reaming the barrel, but the rifling is not recut. Instead, a thin-wall liner is inserted into the barrel and soldered or glued in. The liner has the rifling cut in it. Since liners are fairly thin, and the glue or solder does not give good support, they cannot be used with high pressure cartridges, and lining is limited to cartridges like .22 RF, .25-20, .32-20 and the like.
(A third method is used when it is necessary to preserve original barrel markings, but where it is desired to fire high pressure rounds. It involves reaming the original barrel to a thin shell and installing a barrel thick enough by itself to contain the pressure. This is a very precise process and one done by few shops.)
Jim
Jim Watson
New member
Ol Jes is less expensive than I expected.
Rebore to .338-06 would give a very effective rifle. Largely a hand loading proposition, certainly not to be found at the country store. But it hits hard and shoots reasonably flat.
Rebore to .338-06 would give a very effective rifle. Largely a hand loading proposition, certainly not to be found at the country store. But it hits hard and shoots reasonably flat.
I'll throw out some thoughts. Re-boring. You need a skilled gunsmith. You probably are better off with a new barrel. The new barrel also means you can get a heavier and longer barrel. You can stay with the 30-06 or bump it up a little as others have suggested. I always thought the 35 Whelan would be a good choice and I thought it used a 30-06 case with the neck blown out the 35 Caliber.
The real problem with re-boring is that there are only a few shops that are set up to do it, and they are backlogged months if not years. It is very machine intensive work; rifling machines don't come cheap and there is no guarantee that the barrel will be accurate when the job is finished.
Jim
Jim
If it shoots well, I wouldn't touch it. Pitted bores may not be pretty, but they may not have lost their accuracy.
Try shooting it first and if it's bad, then consider either relining or reboring. BTW, relining is good where you want to preserve the original barrel and finish of the firearm. That was done to one revolver that belonged to a relative.
Try shooting it first and if it's bad, then consider either relining or reboring. BTW, relining is good where you want to preserve the original barrel and finish of the firearm. That was done to one revolver that belonged to a relative.
I didn't want to mention it but James K is correct, if the gunsmith is good at his work the back log on a re-bore may well take a year or more. As I understand it, most of the ballistics given on a 30-06 are from a 24" barrel while the typical "sporting rifle" has a 22" or less barrel. It isn't too much of a drop off in velocity, etc but a little longer barrel is good IMHO. You might bump things up a little more with an Ackley Improved. As I understand it, on an AI the case is more parallel, the original 30-06 was a military round and had to be able to enter the chamber but the recoil caused the case to move back somewhat before it expanded enough to grasp the chamber walls, the AI does this job better and allows more powder, etc so you improve things however some of the newer ammunition might have eliminated most of the advantage.
I think a slightly heavier barrel is good- should be more accurate. In the southeast they call these "beanfield" rifles- you haul them into your tree stand and then sit- not like hiking through foothills all day where weight might actually make a difference. Check out some of the stuff Brownell's sells- a good place to start/buy.
I'm not sure on the rate of twist but the longer the bullet the faster the rate is the general rule. Most 30-06 rifles are most accurate with a 165 grain bullet and most of the match ammo is 165 grains but let's say you want a moose/elk rifle. You may want a 180 or even heavier bullet. If you get up to 200 grain or more the twist might have to be slightly faster to get top accuracy. I believe you can buy 308 bores in various twists. Maybe someone on this thread knows the optimal twist for a heavier bullet in 30-06.
So, not all 30-06 guns are alike. A 24-26" heavy barrel with a rate of twist to stabilize a 200 or longer bullet- different than the off the shelf choice.
I think a slightly heavier barrel is good- should be more accurate. In the southeast they call these "beanfield" rifles- you haul them into your tree stand and then sit- not like hiking through foothills all day where weight might actually make a difference. Check out some of the stuff Brownell's sells- a good place to start/buy.
I'm not sure on the rate of twist but the longer the bullet the faster the rate is the general rule. Most 30-06 rifles are most accurate with a 165 grain bullet and most of the match ammo is 165 grains but let's say you want a moose/elk rifle. You may want a 180 or even heavier bullet. If you get up to 200 grain or more the twist might have to be slightly faster to get top accuracy. I believe you can buy 308 bores in various twists. Maybe someone on this thread knows the optimal twist for a heavier bullet in 30-06.
So, not all 30-06 guns are alike. A 24-26" heavy barrel with a rate of twist to stabilize a 200 or longer bullet- different than the off the shelf choice.
Dixie Gunsmithing
Moderator Emeritus
Since new 700 barrels are quite available, get one and have it fitted. I think you'll end up with a much stronger barrel, to be honest.
The other stuff, I would have to know what you're looking for.
The other stuff, I would have to know what you're looking for.
tangolima said:Reboring also needs installation and headspacing.
Not for reaming a .30-06 boltgun to .35 Whelan - the cases are the same, and only the chamber throat needs to be cleaned up during the rebore.
AFAIK, there's no need to remove the bbl from the receiver.
.
Hey thanks fellas, my son has decided he wants tomake sure he has shot this barrel out. And I believe that this barrel is still accurate, he just might be wanting a different caliber. I'm trying to convince him that maybe a .280, or one of the 6.5 calibers could be cool but he loves 30 caliber results. I like the 30 cal as well but if it were mine it wold be a .280.