Reloading for Remington 7400 (30-06)

Red_Eagle

New member
I should be getting a used 7400 in 30-06 tomarrow or the next day. It has a 22 inch barrel. Is there any special tips for loading for this thing. The only auto loaders I've ever loaded for were ARs, mini's and AKs. Mainly I'm curious about powders and bullets weights. Should I use Garand or standard data?
 
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GeauxTide

New member
Get some RCBS Small Base dies and one brand of case. Stick with 4895, 4064, and 4320. Garand data is great to start. For deer, 150s.
 

Doyle

New member
Yes, ALWAYS full-length resize and make sure your brass is spotless. Remington 742s/7400s are known for having very weak extractors.

Also, there is a note on Hornady's high-performance ammo (now called Superformance but used to be called Light Magnum) that said don't use them on autoloaders. Something about the burn rate and unburned powder getting into the gas ports if I recall. That tells me that you will probably want to avoid maxing out the loads and make sure that you are getting as close to 100% burn rate as you can get.
 

rg1

New member
I load for a Rem 742, a 70's version, and I agree that best powders are powders suitable for a M1 Garand. IMR 4895-IMR 4064. Seems to work best in the Remington auto-loader as it will not beat up the receiver and locking bolt. I loaded IMR 4350 mostly in my rifle and it has some wear from the rotary bolt slamming the receiver rails. My 742 has a chamber on the long side of specs and it'd be good to measure the fired cases from your rifle and not push the shoulders back too much when sizing. My rifle shoots Hornady 150 and 165 SP's really well. I've had absolutely zero problems with using a standard full length sizing die. Take care of your rifle as I understand that Remington will not perform any repairs on them, except for warranty work. Carefully clean the barrel using a coated rod or a guide as you clean it from the muzzle unless you totally take it apart for cleaning. You'll like the rifle for hunting. I understand that the 7400 has a better gas system than the older 742"s?
 

Red_Eagle

New member
I've got about a 1/4 pound of H4895 left. Cans of IMR 4064, RL-15, and varget that are pretty much full. I also have some other stuff, but it sounds like you guys are recommending I stay on the faster burning side. I have H-414, IMR & H-4350, and IMR 4831. I've also got some H380 and Hybrid 100V. Hybrid does great in my 243 and 270, so that probubly way too slow. How well do these rifle handle 165 and 180 grain'ers?
 

rg1

New member
If I were to choose from your powder list, it'd be IMR 4064. Your rifle will handle 180's fine. I've shot 150 thru 220 grain bullets, reloads and factory thru my 742.
 

crowbeaner

New member
I tried to PM you but the bleeping thing says you can't be found.?????
Having loaded for 740, 742, 7400, and 760 models since the mid 60s, I have a few pointers.
Keep it clean. Spotless chamber, and brush the lugs. SPARINGLY oil the slide rail mortices in the receiver.
150 Sierra Prohunter flatbase, RP brass, 48.0 of WW 748, RP 9 1/2.
165 Hornady BTSP, FA match brass, 48.0 of IMR 4320, CCI 250 (yup)
180 Hornady BTSP, RP brass 47.0 of IMR 4064; WW brass 48.0 grains, CCI 200
Having taken 8 deer with 8 shots in a row, the 180 grain load will kill anything on the continent. If you need bigger kill, use a Partition all else the same.
DON'T try to hotrod your ammo; 46,000 to 48,000 cup is great- works every time.
I use RCBS SB dies to load my ammo; my choice- YMMV.
I have a trick to getting good groups; PM me and I'll 'splain it. CB.
 

Red_Eagle

New member
Having spent the better 3/4 of my life shooting Remi Semi rifles, I can offer a bit of insight as to your problem. First is the already outlined cruddy chamber. that bent brush is neat; I use one myself.
Second is that semis are ammo sensitive- if the powder used in that particular ammo is too slow of burning rate, the case will not obturate and contract properly in the cruddy chamber. This causes the case to stick too tightly to the chamber walls and causes undo exertion on the bolt causing the tearing you describe.
Check for gunk alomg the frame rails where the action bars slide- clean them and use 1 drop of RemOil on the frame. Lube the gas pipe under the action spring with a shot of lithium grease after cleaning the rod- crud here can limit or slow the operation of the action.
Make sure the chamber is SHINY clean, and clean it after every 15 rounds or so to insure proper obturation and extraction.
Use MEDIUM burning rate powders in reloads- nothing faster than IMR 3031, and nothing slower than WW760/H414.
IMR 3031 for 110 to 125 grainers, WW748/ BLC2 for 150, WW760/H414 for 165s and 180s. IMR 4064 will work for 150s up.
My old 742 has one job- putting meat in the freezer, nothing more. I use other rifles and calibers for other shooting and hunting purposes. It does this job superbly. As long as the temperature is above -20 it never balks. The only rifle I would replace it with is a 760 or 700 in the same tired boring old 30/06 caliber.
Remember that most big game hunting is done with a maximum of stalking and a minmum of shooting; one to three shots from a cold barrel. Always foul the bore with at least 2 shots before hunting. Dry patch the bore once daily after shooting light is gone.
I found this advise in an older thread. I think crowbeaner wrote it. using it to work up my 1st batch of test loads. Right now here's what I got:
Hornady 180gr BTSP
H-414 (45.1-52.7 grs.)
IMR 4064 (40.1-48.0 grs)
R&P cases
Wolf large rifle
COL 3.225"
 

desert.bunny

New member
Remington Autoloader 30.06

I used a Lee Loader (hand load) and loaded my first rounds. Hornady 165 gr. H4350. I used the Lee specs. I noticed the dipper got me from 52-54 grains. My biggest concern was the COL. I was getting within 100ths accurate, but I'm uncertain how much variance you can have.

Any thoughts?

Also, I am confused on how to find the true COL for my gun. I've read of some techniques using a dowel, but they're not too clear. Can anyone point me in the right direction? Thanks.
 

federali

New member
Tumble your brass

I went for years loading rifle ammo without a case tumbler. Acquired the machine when I started reloading for handgun. Anyway, ran some 7mm-08 Rem brass through the case tumbler. I was struck dumb at how much more easily these shells entered the full length sizer die. I kicked myself in the butt for not discovering or realizing this decades sooner.

As previous posters have said, keep everything clean. Tumbling your brass is like icing on the case, makes them slick as goose dung.

Incidentally, persistent comments and rumors indicate that the Remington autoloaders are designed for once-a-year eastern deer hunters and engineered for a useful life of about a 1000 rounds. For big city hunters where the nearest 100-yard range requires a full tank of gas to reach, Their rifles will see little use. But I do have a friend that wore out a Rem 742. Remington offered a trade-in allowance, not a new gun.
 

farmerboy

Moderator
If you size brass with full length sizer only make about five to start with. Alot of 742s and such need small base dies so check before making too many
 
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