I've been reloading rifle cartridges for a while, but now I'm going to start reloading for my XD pistol. I had a couple of questions. I noticed you can buy (40 Caliber & 10mm) or (41 cal). What is the difference here? Are both fine for a 40 S&W? Any suggestions on bullets to by for plinking? Self-Defense? What powders do you prefer? Charge loads and OAL would be great!! Thanks guys.
Reloading 40 S&W
- Thread starter tachunter
- Start date
BurkGlocker
New member
If you're talking about bullet diameter, most of the time it will usually be listed as 10mm/.400" on the box. .41 is larger and will not work for reloading the .40 S&W.
I use 180 gr XTPs in my G22 over a charge of 6.3 gr of Power Pistol (which is a relatively light load), OAL 1.130". It functions well in my pistol, recoil is mildish but very accurate.
I use 180 gr XTPs in my G22 over a charge of 6.3 gr of Power Pistol (which is a relatively light load), OAL 1.130". It functions well in my pistol, recoil is mildish but very accurate.
N.H. Yankee
New member
I prefer the 165 gr bullets for plinking and the same in hollow point for self defense especially in a subcompact. I have been using Federal HST and when I change out my old ammo for fresh ammo I am considering the new Winchester PDX 165gr as the FBI has gone to this and it is a bonded bullet, but I need to do more research. The HST is one of the best available and Speer gold dots are as well. I always like to practice with the same weight bullet I am going to carry for defense.
I reload my practice ammo, but always buy factory for defense, one reason is legal, I don't want some prosecutor trying to claim I used a special load with a special bullet made for killing. I feel using what Law enforcement uses is more easier to defend. Second I don't believe that HST bullets are available for reloading and I know the PDX aren't as of now.
I reload my practice ammo, but always buy factory for defense, one reason is legal, I don't want some prosecutor trying to claim I used a special load with a special bullet made for killing. I feel using what Law enforcement uses is more easier to defend. Second I don't believe that HST bullets are available for reloading and I know the PDX aren't as of now.
Shane Tuttle
Staff
I'm going to assume you meant to type .401 when I give my opinion.
Regarding bullets, any grain from 135 to 200 can be used for reloading.
Start with FMJ bullets. It's better to start with an easy-to-load/seat bullet. Some brands of plated bullets have a tendency to wrinkle if you don't bell the mouth of the cases well enough. It's one less headache do deal with until you get your feet wet.
Any commercial ammo for self defense will perform soundly. You'll need to experiment which one will function reliably in your specific firearm.
Win231 (same as HP38), HS6, AA#2, and AA#5 are some that I like. TiteGroup works great, but I highly recommend waiting to use this until, you guessed it, get your feet wet.
Waldog, .40 s&w and 10mm use the same dies. yes you are right that 10mm is longer, but you still use the same die set. just adjust the height accordingly. this is the same when reloading .38 special and .357 mag.
To Tachunter, 41 Mag dies will not work. only the specific caliber die will work correctly (that gets more specific with necked and rifle rounds, but were talkin about straight walled pistol here anyways). As Tuttle stated, any weight bullet will work, but be sure you can find some load data on whatever weight you decide on. I am partial to 165 gr, but you may find 155 or 180s to be more of your liking. play around with bullet weight and powder (always from the min charge and work up) until you find "your secret recipe".
Personally, I do not use reloads for my SD ammo, but that is own personal opinion. I only use Factory loads for SD.
Powder, I have been using Accurate No.7 lately and have been pleased. .40 s&w tends to prefer a medium burn powder, so I have avoided any of the really fast stuff, and have not really tried many other powders yet. again, try a few different powders and find your favorite
Cheers and best of luck.
--QC Punk
P.S, Tuttle, what do you think of HS6 and Win231? Do you use 231 in any other calibers?
To Tachunter, 41 Mag dies will not work. only the specific caliber die will work correctly (that gets more specific with necked and rifle rounds, but were talkin about straight walled pistol here anyways). As Tuttle stated, any weight bullet will work, but be sure you can find some load data on whatever weight you decide on. I am partial to 165 gr, but you may find 155 or 180s to be more of your liking. play around with bullet weight and powder (always from the min charge and work up) until you find "your secret recipe".
Personally, I do not use reloads for my SD ammo, but that is own personal opinion. I only use Factory loads for SD.
Powder, I have been using Accurate No.7 lately and have been pleased. .40 s&w tends to prefer a medium burn powder, so I have avoided any of the really fast stuff, and have not really tried many other powders yet. again, try a few different powders and find your favorite
Cheers and best of luck.
--QC Punk
P.S, Tuttle, what do you think of HS6 and Win231? Do you use 231 in any other calibers?
BurkGlocker
New member
I like 165's as well, but my ammo of choice (Federal HST) doesnt expand as much as the 180's or the 155's. I like to use the same weight for practice as carry, but I load them down a little bit, one to save powder and to save wear and tear on my weapon. But every once in awhile, I still pop the caps on my carry ammo to remember what it feels like and to make sure that it still functions in my firearm.
The general concensous is that you do not use reloads for SD ammo because of the possibility of legal issues that may arise if you do actually have to use them in a defense situation. Reload for practice, buy factory for carry...
I used the same dies for 40 S&W and 10mm, and the same for .38 and .357. If memory serves me correctly, my dies had a spacer to make up the difference in the length of cartridges. Its been since 1999 that I reloaded for 10mm or .38/.357 Mag, and things have been a little fuzzy since then.
The general concensous is that you do not use reloads for SD ammo because of the possibility of legal issues that may arise if you do actually have to use them in a defense situation. Reload for practice, buy factory for carry...
I used the same dies for 40 S&W and 10mm, and the same for .38 and .357. If memory serves me correctly, my dies had a spacer to make up the difference in the length of cartridges. Its been since 1999 that I reloaded for 10mm or .38/.357 Mag, and things have been a little fuzzy since then.
Haha, good catch there Burk. The .38/.357 die set does include a spacer to be used for reloading .357. I don't think my .40/10mm die set had a spacer, but I dont own any 10mm firearms anyways.
But I might be straying off topic, so lets get back to it. Just a little something I forgot to mention for Tachunter, 10mm and .40 s&w have the exact same diameter (.400") and the 10mm is just 1/8" longer than .40 s&w.
But I might be straying off topic, so lets get back to it. Just a little something I forgot to mention for Tachunter, 10mm and .40 s&w have the exact same diameter (.400") and the 10mm is just 1/8" longer than .40 s&w.
Shane Tuttle
Staff
For .40SW, I absolutely love them. Both meter very well, clean burning, and fills the cartridge fairly well. Win231 is a bit softer in the recoil department, but not that noticeable. There have been a few complaints on this board regarding experiences of the powder not fully burning. I haven't run into this myself, but that doesn't mean anything.
As for other cartridges, PM inbound...
I have heard this to be true especially when it comes to non-stock, or match firearms. The explination that I was provided was that a modified weapon used in self defense is would be the focus of the prosecuting attourney. I know this to be true for law enforcement.
I personally wouldn't use reloads for self defense reliability issues.
This has been argued to the point of being ridiculous. If I have probable cause to stop you as a "threat" in my house the way I go about doing it is kinda pointless. If it is with a spork, fire poker, shotgun, BB gun, table leg, chicken neck, match AR-15 or my trusty G23 with my hand loaded self defense rounds. The whole "the interweb told me" this is good or bad is kinda old. If you are fearful that you would be in the "wrong" because you shot someone with a hand loaded hollow point instead of a factory round, then don't use it. But lets also not act like hand loaded SD rounds are the bogeyman..
Shane Tuttle
Staff
That's great, Doby. But this thread isn't for discussion on whether reloads or factory loads are best for self defense.
BurkGlocker
New member
Man, I love it when you guys take offense at some little thing posted on some forum.
But of course someone has to stray from the topic to try and pick a fight. :barf:
I think my dies were RCBS and if I remember correctly as well, it even had both calibers listed on the side of the box the dies came in.
But of course someone has to stray from the topic to try and pick a fight. :barf:
I think my dies were RCBS and if I remember correctly as well, it even had both calibers listed on the side of the box the dies came in.
Thank you Tuttle. I have had great results using No7 so far. It seems to meter very well in my setup and I have not yet noticed any unburnt powder. The recoil does seem slightly more snappy, but not harder/more powerful. Just a little quicker than factory ammo (I have come to the conclusion that it may have to do with the "freshness" of the powder? lol). I believe Win231 is easier to find in my area so I'll be picking up a can and see how it goes.
I also noticed that Tac had some questions on load and OAL. First off, I highly highly recommend a reload manual. Speer is a good place to start, the powder and bullet manufactures will also list data that has been tested and proven to be safe.
Over all length is a commonly misunderstood topic. Again, refer to your new reloading manual for OAL Max values. This is the overall length determined by SAAMI that will function in 99.9% of firearms of that caliber. For ultimate accuracy you would want to measure the chamber of the fun you are loading for and use that measurement. Otherwise, don't exceed the SAAMI Max OAL (which is 1.135"). I have set my loads to 1.120-1.130 with nearly no noticable difference. As long as it fits in the magazine, cycles, and fires, you are good to go.
As for bullets, I use FMJs only because they are cheaper for plinking than hollowpoints. I have been using Speer TMJs (same as FMJs except that the entire bullet is jacketed) but they definately are not the cheapest on the market. I have no experience with Rainier but they do recommend using Lead data or reducing max load by 10%. Supposedly their bullets are softer than most others. But like I said, I have no experience with these and I am hoping some of the other ppl here can chime in on that one.
I also noticed that Tac had some questions on load and OAL. First off, I highly highly recommend a reload manual. Speer is a good place to start, the powder and bullet manufactures will also list data that has been tested and proven to be safe.
Over all length is a commonly misunderstood topic. Again, refer to your new reloading manual for OAL Max values. This is the overall length determined by SAAMI that will function in 99.9% of firearms of that caliber. For ultimate accuracy you would want to measure the chamber of the fun you are loading for and use that measurement. Otherwise, don't exceed the SAAMI Max OAL (which is 1.135"). I have set my loads to 1.120-1.130 with nearly no noticable difference. As long as it fits in the magazine, cycles, and fires, you are good to go.
As for bullets, I use FMJs only because they are cheaper for plinking than hollowpoints. I have been using Speer TMJs (same as FMJs except that the entire bullet is jacketed) but they definately are not the cheapest on the market. I have no experience with Rainier but they do recommend using Lead data or reducing max load by 10%. Supposedly their bullets are softer than most others. But like I said, I have no experience with these and I am hoping some of the other ppl here can chime in on that one.
Shane Tuttle
Staff
Rainiers are the ones I've had issues. If plated bullets are the only option at the time, I would choose Berry's.
www.precisiondelta.com
Great bullets and they are jacketed, not plated. I used the 165s and the 180s.
Great bullets and they are jacketed, not plated. I used the 165s and the 180s.
Get an undersize resizing die from EGW, trust me on this. A lot of the once fired brass you'll load will have been fired in stock Glock barrels and will have a "bulge" at the case base. This die fixes it. It also helps to prevent bullet setback. .40 S&W is a very high pressure round. Exercise caution and ensure that you are following sound reloading practices.
With that said, here's my favorite .40 load. I load for USPSA to make major power factor. So if you're loading just for casual shooting, you can use a lighter load.
180gr, either cast lead or plated projectile
4.9gr WSF
CCI or Winchester small pistol primer
1.135" OAL
With that said, here's my favorite .40 load. I load for USPSA to make major power factor. So if you're loading just for casual shooting, you can use a lighter load.
180gr, either cast lead or plated projectile
4.9gr WSF
CCI or Winchester small pistol primer
1.135" OAL
Blue Grass
New member
I had a machinist buddy make me a .125 shim for my .38spl dies.When I want to reload .357 mags, I put it between the die and the top of the press so I don't have to readjust my dies. If the difference between .40S&W and 10mm is the same (.125") you could use the same shim for both sets of dies.