Reloaders help me

Gunforall

New member
Hello all, this is my first time doing anything like this but i read this forum constantly. My question is I have read, watched everything possible on reloading. I myself want to reload as a hobby. But with the way congress is going should i even consider starting.

I want to reload very badly, the way eveyone is so helpfull to each other is beyond belief. Ive watched so many instructional vidios my eyes bleed. my next question is bullet seating depth. after all this reading and watching i still dont understand how do you know how far to seat the bullet when there are so many different types. Thanks
 

NWPilgrim

New member
Reloading is always a good idea, and I am finding it even more useful these days. It is darn hard to find ammo of any sort, let alone the specific bullet and weight you want. If you keep stocked up on components you have a lot of options.

Right now I can easily go shooting anytime I want and shoot a few hundred rounds of rifle and pistol ammo and have it all reloaded a couple of weeks later. I could use my 5000 small pistol primers to load any combination of .38 Special, .380ACP, 9x18 Mak, 9mm, or .40S&W. I can use my several pounds of Varget and H4895 powder to load any combination of common bullets in .223, .308 or .30-06. I can use my stockpile of various .308" bullets for either .308 Win or .30-06.

Friends and relatives in other areas can't even find one or two boxes of a single cartridge, or it costs $40 a box if they do find one. In fact, I am helping a SIL load up a few hundred each .223, 9mm, .44 mag to take ot a family shootfest next month. His brothers can't find any ammo on the shelves. I have several thousand primers, many pounds of powder, and several thousands of bullets and brass on hand.

Bullet seating is easy. Get a reloading manual and make sure it gives the maximum cartridge length, which is usually indicated on the bullet diagram. You do not want to exceed this length otherwise it may not fit properly in the chamber and could increase pressures dramatically if it etends into the throat.

Next, every data table for powder loads should specify the cartridge overall length that was used to test the powder charge. Do not seat the bullet so that the overall length is LESS than this. That would decrease the space within the case and also could increase pressures dramatically. You can seat at this specified length, or any length out to the maximum length. Cartridge overall length is abbreviated in tables as COL (Cartridge Overall Length) or OAL (OverAll Length).

Lastly, you want to take into consideration the type, weight and construction of the bullet you are using versus the ones used in the data tables. Heavier bullets are "usually" longer. However, non-lead bullets such as all copper or hollowpoint or polymer tipped bullets are usually longer than equal weight all lead jacketed bullets. Either find data for the specific bullet you have (Nosler, Barnes, Sierra, Speer all publish reloading manuals), or use the data for the next weight up if you are using an atypical bullet.

For instance, if you can only find data for a plain Jane 150 gr. .308" jacketed soft point or FMJ bullet, but you are loading a Nosler Ballistic Tip 150 gr. bullet, then I would recommend using the data for the plain Jane 165 gr bullet since it is more similar to the length of the 150 gr ballistic Tip. DO NOT load a 150 gr Ballistic Tip or Barnes STX bullet to the same powder charge and COL as you would for a typical Speer 150 gr. SP.

If you keep those three factors in mind (max COL as the maximum, tested COL as the minimum, and adjust for atypical bullet type) then you will have your ideal COL range.

Then you just seat your bullet such that the COL is within that range. You adjust the bullet seating by starting with the seating bplug screwed out quite a ways. Then you screw it in a 1/4 turn and check the length. Repeat until COL is in the target range.

Clear as mud?
 

Gunforall

New member
Thanks so much, is all this data included in these manuels mentioned in other post. If so any recomendations on which one. I hear Hornady alot.
 

Uncle Buck

New member
Choices Choices Choices! I started reloading just a few months ago and just absolutely love the idea I can afford to shoot anytime I want. Right now I have the RCBS Rockchucker press and RCBS dies.
I bought a dial caliper to make sure my I did not seat my bullets to far. I slowly adjust how deep my bullet goes and when it is where the book tells me it needs to be, I lock my die in place.
I put the bullet it, seat it, measure the over all cartridge length (OAL) and if it is not deep enough, I give the bullet seating die another twist. Remeasure and do it again until I have it where I want it.
I have two manuals, the Speer reloading manual #14 and the Lyman reloading handbook, 49th edition. There is a lot of great information in both books and they repeat some information. For history on reloading, I would choose the Speer. For more detailed info on just reloading, the Lyman. They both do a great job of explaining the whys and why nots of reloading. I see Lyman has a handgun reloading manual and I will be getting that one shortly.
I had my press for two months before I got the courage to start reloading. Now I enjoy it so much, I wish I had a magic formula for getting more of everything I want. Seems once the bug bites, it really gets ahold of you and I can not tell you how much I enjoy reloading. When I am done reloading and have nothing else left, I re-read the manuals. Each time I reload, it get easier and faster. I really hope you try it.
 

Gunforall

New member
Thanks Uncle Buck, Im currently deployed to Iraq and dream of my first press.
I will get one its just a matter of time but i have another dumb question. Do you reload in the house or in a garage. The reason i ask is the powder im sure needs to be stored in somewhat of cool dry place. So with that being said i have a shop but no AC in it, would it be feasable to do it there and not ruin the powder?
 
G'day and welcome. From what I have read in regards to rifle bullet seating deapth there are a couple of things not yet mentioned.

1, It is advisable to seat the bullet about the same deapth as the diameter of the bullet.
2, Make sure that the COL still fits and feeds in the magazine.
3, Don't let the bullet touch the rifling (untill fired), as this can increase chamber pressure.
4, Stick to published load data.

If you use the load data from the bullet manufacturer you plan to use it should be straight forward. As you load and read more, you will learn what you can change and why you can change it.

Stay safe.
 

Sevens

New member
The bullet seating question has been illuminated a good bit and is best answered on a case by case basis. The question about WHERE to reload and where to store powder is easy enough, IMO-- store your powder inside the house in a controlled and a/c environment, and if you don't feel your reloading area is a good enough environment for it, then simply bring it out when you are reloading and store it in the house when you aren't. A rubbermaid tote is a big help for this sort of thing.

Last question:
But with the way congress is going should i even consider starting.
You could ask yourself exactly that on a dozen different topics. Hell, with our President, you might consider being a jobless beggar when your military service is finished because socialism will likely have the state take great care of anyone who doesn't feel like working! ;)
 

oneounceload

Moderator
Welcome,

Do you reload in the house or in a garage. The reason i ask is the powder im sure needs to be stored in somewhat of cool dry place. So with that being said i have a shop but no AC in it, would it be feasable to do it there and not ruin the powder?

I reload in the garage - I have a small house and the other BR is full......BUT I keep my powder and primers inside in a closet - take them out, reload, bring the components back inside - works fine here in hot and humid FL
 

jamaica

New member
Do you reload in the house or in a garage.

My first setup was in a closet, upstairs in my father's house. I have reloaded in a couple of different garages, in a couple of different sheds, and a couple of different basements. The basement is great. Those sheds and garages were a bummer in the winter.

I guess you can do it wherever you can find a spot.
 

Doodlebugger45

New member
LOL :D

I'll bet the first 10 rounds that I loaded would be considered pretty bad now in hindsight. I had a lot of problems getting the seating and crimping part of the operation adjusted right. The overall length was all over the place and no 2 bullets were crimped alike.
 

lockedcj7

New member
A good bullet puller is your best friend. I had to learn a lot of things the hard way and I've pulled down more ammo than I care to admit. Just pull the bullets and re-cycle the components immediately. You'll think that you'll remember what powder you were using but you won't. You may be able to re-use the brass depending on how mangled it is or you may not. Don't stress out about trashing a few cases and primers now and then.

Here are some lessons I had to learn the hard way:
If you're using a roll-crimp, it's vital that all your cases are the same length. If you're using a taper crimp, it's not as important.

The more case prep you do, the better and more consistent your ammo will be. If you're just cranking out blasting ammo, some steps may be omitted but some are vital for maintaining safe pressures.

When setting up dies for a new bullet, depth or crimp, use prepped cases but don't prime or charge them. When you've got the depth and crimp you want, you can start loading live ammo and you can pull the bullets from the test rounds without spilling any powder.

Loading quality ammo from the worst range brass requires to most work IMHO. Here are the steps I use:

Clean with Birchwood Casey case cleaner,
dry,
tumble,
sort,
lube,
de-cap/re-size,
trim, chamfer and deburr,
clean, swage (military brass) and uniform primer pocket,
uniform flash hole,
prime,
charge,
seat/crimp.
 
Last edited:
Top