I recently bought a new slide for my s&w 41. I had bull 5 inch and wanted target 7 inch. So one came up and I jumped on it. It should be here in a day or so. Seller did let me know that finish isn't great and it's due to being left in a foam case of years. Dried up foam stained the finish. I can say if it cause putting yet but boatris 100%. I am think about what to do with it. Maybe have some fun and have it coated professionally in diff collor or have it sent to s&w ( or some one else reputable to get re-blued )I am not worried about resale value because I will never sell it. So what do you guys recommend/suggest one can do? I never done anything like that so who better to ask than members of this forum.
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Refinishing the slide
- Thread starter Ultra12
- Start date
if it were me & my $$$.....
Im not sure what your budget or tastes are but you have a few good choices for professional work.
I like Metalife and Robar's NP3+ if you want a non reflective nickel grey color.
For other color or even camo choices see GOE Gunworks, Swanson Armory, Accurate Plating & Weaponry(Bob Cogan), Black T.
Swanson Armory near NE Florida does Duracoat. I like his color & camo choices.
Black T or Green T is popular with sworn LE & spec ops.
Bearcoat isnt bad either.
Clyde
Im not sure what your budget or tastes are but you have a few good choices for professional work.
I like Metalife and Robar's NP3+ if you want a non reflective nickel grey color.
For other color or even camo choices see GOE Gunworks, Swanson Armory, Accurate Plating & Weaponry(Bob Cogan), Black T.
Swanson Armory near NE Florida does Duracoat. I like his color & camo choices.
Black T or Green T is popular with sworn LE & spec ops.
Bearcoat isnt bad either.
Clyde
if it were me & my $$$.....
I think its www.bearcoat.com .
For Swanson Armory, I like WWII OD green, German Red, German Blue, Stone, and H-D orange.
Clyde
I think its www.bearcoat.com .
For Swanson Armory, I like WWII OD green, German Red, German Blue, Stone, and H-D orange.
Clyde
Last edited:
Walt Sherrill
New member
A 41 is worth doing right -- and that means sending it back to S&W for them to redo...
As noted, you can send the slide by mail (well-insured, of course) -- no FFL is required. (The slide isn't a firearm.) f you do anything else, chances are you'll later regret it, and make "correcting" the problem of the "newer" finish just an extra expense.
But, before I sent it off, I'd get a small bottle of Brownell's OXPHO Blue and try touching it up. I've been very pleasantly surprised in the past, with how well that "cold blue" material can fix up some seemingly horrible damage. I've found that a lot of thin coats can return a damaged area to "like new" condition in many cases.
If there's no rust, just a loss of bluing, it may work. You can buy it from Cabelas; here's a link: http://www.cabelas.com/product/Brownells-oz-Oxpho-Blue/741268.uts
As noted, you can send the slide by mail (well-insured, of course) -- no FFL is required. (The slide isn't a firearm.) f you do anything else, chances are you'll later regret it, and make "correcting" the problem of the "newer" finish just an extra expense.
But, before I sent it off, I'd get a small bottle of Brownell's OXPHO Blue and try touching it up. I've been very pleasantly surprised in the past, with how well that "cold blue" material can fix up some seemingly horrible damage. I've found that a lot of thin coats can return a damaged area to "like new" condition in many cases.
If there's no rust, just a loss of bluing, it may work. You can buy it from Cabelas; here's a link: http://www.cabelas.com/product/Brownells-oz-Oxpho-Blue/741268.uts
Last edited:
chokeoloko
New member
also consider the fact that no matter where you send it there is a pretty decent wait time to get it back. S&W should be about 6+ months
Consider Mark Lee's Express Blue. It is an accelerated version of slow rust bluing that you can do in a few hours. It is inexpensive, requires minimal tools and produces a tougher blue than the hot salt bluing S&W does. One slide would not make for a difficult project. You need a heat gun, oxide paper, steel wool and a pot of boiling water.