Recommended lubricant?

Rovert

New member
I'm sure this question comes up all the time, but probably not about this particular brand, and when my search returned about 1500 threads, I'd prefer to cut to the chase. :D

I have useda a product called 'Finish Line' for years, developed for cycling. It is a teflon-based synthetic lube product that sets up dry. I'm wondering if anyone has heard of it, and/or used it, and whether it's suitable for guns. My reasoning is that a gun slide and parts are similar kinds of stresses would be found in a bicycle drive train (chains, gears...) so that it seemed to make sense. If it is a superior kind of lube, perhaps the extra cost is justified, since such a little goes such a long way.

Any thoughts?
www.finishline.com
www.finishlineusa.com/microbrew.htm
“It took us about six months to develop that first product, and it’s still our calling card: says the 39 year-old Krause. “It’s a Teflon-based product that utilizes synthetic oils. It quickly penetrates into the bushings and pins of a chain, fibers of a cable and pivot points of a derailleur. It then sets up in a dry wax-like film, so as not to attract dirt and contaminants."
 

Salt

Moderator
If you ever get around to shooting black power cartridges, do not use any petroleum based lubricants and oils on your firearms as it will cause heavy fouling.

Instead you want to use a product called Ballistol.
 

Salt

Moderator
For lubricating bullets of your BP loads, go with Borebutter(tm) or use a 50/50 mix of crisco and beeswax.
 

Shmackey

New member
I know of Finish Line from my bicycling days. They make excellent bike lubes but I wouldn't use them for guns. The idea of intentionally leaving behind solids--which is great on bike parts--sounds like a bad idea in pistols.

I clean with BreakFree CLP (which theoretically is also enough to lube) and then oil critical parts with Militec. Any decent gun oil would do.
 

Kermit

New member
Yeah, I know finish line...use to manage a bike shop in my misguided youth :D :D
Use bike stuff on bikes & gun stuff on guns...I use Militec, Snake oil, and Break Free ;)
Good luck
 

Redlg155

New member
Hoppes #9 and BreakFree for my Smokeless guns and Good Ol hot soapy water and T/C Bore Butter for my Smokepoles. You can save time by just climbing in the tub with your "smokepole". Makes one hell of a ring in the tub, but you kill two birds with one stone...well..uhhhh..at least I think so.:D

Ohhh..Breakfree in the bottle. That aeorosol stuff doesn't work as good for me.

Good Shooting
RED
 

Rovert

New member
Sorry, guys. I'm new at all of this, and guess I need to make a point of mentioning which guns I'm talking about.

Right now, it's for maintenance of a Kimber and a P99, but my collection will hopefully expand to a Bushmaster and other rifles and handguns. No black powder for now.

My thinking was that the teflon additives might be an advantage for high-torque, low speed parts such as slides, triggers and pivot points.

Thanks!
 

Tropical Z

New member
I also like the Teflon idea and mostly use RemOil because a local gun shop always has it at a good price.A friend swears by Super Lubes Dry film lubricant which is much less expensive($4.50-11 oz can at HomeDepot or Lowes) than any "gun" dry film lube i've seen.
www.super-lube.com
 

croyance

New member
My reasoning is that a gun slide and parts are similar kinds of stresses would be found in a bicycle drive train (chains, gears...) so that it seemed to make sense.
I'm thinking that the slide of a handgun moves much faster than bicycle parts. The internal parts also get hotter than a cycle if you are firing quickly.
I personally will not take the chance. Like Tropical Z I use RemOil, it has teflon in it. Remington also has a spray on dry lube, which I don't use on moving parts.
 

RWK

New member
Mobil 1 is a superb lubricant. BreakFree CPL is the proven standard for cleaning and lubrication. Hoppes gun oil is also good. Hoppes #9 has been very effective for my handguns, but a Sig gunsmith specifically recommended it not be used on their weapons due to adverse impact on bluing; I also would not use it on any nckel-plated metals.
 

Indy_SIG

New member
I use FP-10. Chemically similar to Breakfree, but tests better at lower temperatures. It also smells better (I can't stand the smell of Breakfree).
 

Indy_SIG

New member
I use FP-10. Chemically similar to Breakfree, but tests better at lower temperatures. It also smells better (I can't stand the smell of Breakfree).
 

Shmackey

New member
The smell of breakfree is second only in pure deliciousness to the smell of WD-40. But because WD-40 is junk, I'll stick with the second-best-smelling thing out there!
 

MatthewM

New member
I do what Mark IV said, and that is what Kimber recommends...

If you have the wood grips still on, keep oil off of the wood.
 
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