Hi, I'm setting up to reload .45acp on my Dillon RL550b. I'm not sure which brand or set of dies to go with. The Dillon dies are about $60, but there are other brands, such as lee, that are much cheaper! Are they as good, or good enough? I think I'd want carbide dies, to avoid the need for case lubing. Any recommendations would help.
Recommendation for 45acp die set??
- Thread starter jtaylor
- Start date
On my Dillon I originally used my RCBS die set that I had prior to acquiring the Dillon. While they worked fine in my Rockchucker, I had minor problems with them in the Dillon, so I ordered the Dillon dies. They are great and should I load any .45 ACP in the Rockchucker they would the dies I would use. I highly recommend the Dillon dies, especially for use in Dillon presses.
I've always used RCBS dies in my RL550 until recently. When I started loading .45 ACP last year I bought a RCBS carbide die set as usual but soon found that the carbide sizing die was not chamfered enough at the mouth to allow slightly out of position cases to enter the die. Consequently I had frequent jams. Subsequently, I bought a 4 die Lee set [I wanted a FCD die anyway] which was much better but I still have ocassional jams.
If I were to do it again I would paid the price for Dillon dies then bought a separate Lee FCD and be done with it. Being cheap caught me this time...... [I really don't know why I had so much trouble with the .45ACP RCBS sizing die as loading .38/.357, .40 S&W, and .44 Mag with RCBS dies has never been a problem.]
If I were to do it again I would paid the price for Dillon dies then bought a separate Lee FCD and be done with it. Being cheap caught me this time...... [I really don't know why I had so much trouble with the .45ACP RCBS sizing die as loading .38/.357, .40 S&W, and .44 Mag with RCBS dies has never been a problem.]
Thesenator
New member
Get the Dillon carbide dies and never look back.
Yeah, I need to order the conversion kit anyway, I might as well get the Dillon dies, I have dillon 45lc dies that work great and the inserts come out easy to clean, so I'll stick with them.
Between the conversion kit, dies and toolhead, it's $120 !!! Oh well... Only once per caliber at least!
Between the conversion kit, dies and toolhead, it's $120 !!! Oh well... Only once per caliber at least!
TexasSeaRay
New member
I love Lee carbide dies, but I use Dillon dies in my 550B. They seem to work best with the Dillon setup.
Now, if I'd just unbox my Dillon and actually use it every once in a while . . .
Jeff
Now, if I'd just unbox my Dillon and actually use it every once in a while . . .
Jeff
jtaylor, for a complete caliber change, you are looking at more like $220.
I like Dillon dies, but last time I was looking for dies, for .357Sig, they were about $160... just for the dies. Ouch!
Now you are talking about almost $400 for a caliber change, man!
Of course they were the only carbide dies in that caliber. I went with the lube.
I like Dillon dies, but last time I was looking for dies, for .357Sig, they were about $160... just for the dies. Ouch!
Now you are talking about almost $400 for a caliber change, man!
Of course they were the only carbide dies in that caliber. I went with the lube.
73-Captain
Moderator
According to Foxbat Dillon .357 Sig dies are "about $160".
Dillon March, 2008 prices, .357 Sig 3-die set #F27-22083 is $125.95.
jtaylor, I have no brand loyalty and use Dillon, Lyman, Lee and Redding dies, whatever works best for MY needs. Like everyone else with real/actual experience with them says, the Dillon dies will work the best especially for a progressive press. Well worth the $58.95 price.
Add a $71.95 "caliber conversion kit", a $9.50 powder die and $22.95 for a toolhead. It is easy to swap the powder measure between die sets. About $164 instead of $220.
C.
Dillon March, 2008 prices, .357 Sig 3-die set #F27-22083 is $125.95.
jtaylor, I have no brand loyalty and use Dillon, Lyman, Lee and Redding dies, whatever works best for MY needs. Like everyone else with real/actual experience with them says, the Dillon dies will work the best especially for a progressive press. Well worth the $58.95 price.
Add a $71.95 "caliber conversion kit", a $9.50 powder die and $22.95 for a toolhead. It is easy to swap the powder measure between die sets. About $164 instead of $220.
C.
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Swapping the powder measure is actually the most complicated part of the process, as the steps include the swap itself, expansion die setting, powder drop weight adjustment, and possibly powder type change.
So if someone contemplates changing calibers, best way to go is to swallow hard and get the quick change set, that includes the powder measure and the toolhead... plus the stand.
So... $72 plus $95 plus dies plus shipping... $220 is right.
So if someone contemplates changing calibers, best way to go is to swallow hard and get the quick change set, that includes the powder measure and the toolhead... plus the stand.
So... $72 plus $95 plus dies plus shipping... $220 is right.
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craigcolorado
New member
Lee Carbide
Lee Deluxe carbide die set with the factory crimp. Midway list for $32.00.
Get the Lee case length trimmer setup for this as well...total should run you around $50.00.
If you want..you can order directly from Lee Precision if there isn't a dealer near you that carries Lee products, but you,ll have to pay list price. But compared to what it cost for RCBS or if you have a Dillon press...it will cost you plenty to buy these brands. Lee dies will load first class ammo....make no mistake about that.
We are all assuming you have a reloading press already and a scale or powder throw. If not....order a complete setup from Lee and enjoy.Even a single stage press will save you a lot of money reloading...but I'm sure you're aware of this.
By the way...using the Factory Crimp Die is so very easy compared to a taper crimp...it really is. It's hard to over crimp using the factory crimp die...but you can surely over crimp using a taper die, which by the way, you do have with the Lee Deluxe Pistol Die Set...you have both with this set.
Lee Deluxe carbide die set with the factory crimp. Midway list for $32.00.
Get the Lee case length trimmer setup for this as well...total should run you around $50.00.
If you want..you can order directly from Lee Precision if there isn't a dealer near you that carries Lee products, but you,ll have to pay list price. But compared to what it cost for RCBS or if you have a Dillon press...it will cost you plenty to buy these brands. Lee dies will load first class ammo....make no mistake about that.
We are all assuming you have a reloading press already and a scale or powder throw. If not....order a complete setup from Lee and enjoy.Even a single stage press will save you a lot of money reloading...but I'm sure you're aware of this.
By the way...using the Factory Crimp Die is so very easy compared to a taper crimp...it really is. It's hard to over crimp using the factory crimp die...but you can surely over crimp using a taper die, which by the way, you do have with the Lee Deluxe Pistol Die Set...you have both with this set.
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craigcolorado
New member
Every case needs to be checked
Rusty...even using carbide dies...45 ACP straight wall cases lengthen as well as 357s, 44's, 41's...etc. The cases may not stretch all that much per loading...and...using the Lee factory crimp die does not require checking the cases every single reloading...but if you use a taper crimp...it's really important that the cases be checked for stretching, since there is a chance of crushing a straight wall pistol case while taper crimping.
For the ease of using a Lee case length trimmer and the cost...it doesn't take long to perform this stage of reloading. Plus...belling the mouth of the case is going to cause some stretch and lengthening. Again..it may not be much for every reloading...but at some point..it's gotta be done. Lee gives the exact same cut and will never over cut..never.
Rusty...even using carbide dies...45 ACP straight wall cases lengthen as well as 357s, 44's, 41's...etc. The cases may not stretch all that much per loading...and...using the Lee factory crimp die does not require checking the cases every single reloading...but if you use a taper crimp...it's really important that the cases be checked for stretching, since there is a chance of crushing a straight wall pistol case while taper crimping.
For the ease of using a Lee case length trimmer and the cost...it doesn't take long to perform this stage of reloading. Plus...belling the mouth of the case is going to cause some stretch and lengthening. Again..it may not be much for every reloading...but at some point..it's gotta be done. Lee gives the exact same cut and will never over cut..never.
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craigcolorado, sorry I under stand about trimming and I do trim rifle but have never trimmed straight wall pistol brass. I have never put a caliper on any but it is my understanding that it will actually get shorter and not longer. I have never had an issue but I do use the Lee FCD and you don't need to trim for it. If I was going to seat and roll crimp in the same die for a revolver that would be the only reason I would trim straight wall pistol brass.
Rusty
Rusty
craigcolorado
New member
I need to trim my 357's
I have to admit...I don't know all there is in reloading...but I 've been reloading for over 35 years. Using carbide dies or regular dies to reload 44's and 9mm, 357's and so on...I do (Or did..I don't have the 44 anymore) have to trim these cases on occasion. It seems my 357 is more prone to stretching than my 9mm...but again..by using the Lee factory crimp die, I know I could skip this stage and check every other reloading of these cases.
I guess I'm going thru the reloading process out of habit...I can't believe this is a bad thing. I always...always check my rifle rounds for length. It probably doesn't make sense on every rifle round I reload since I neck size only for rifle...but I've never had a problem with ammo feeding out of my 9mm or the 45 ACP either. I check the length on each case.
Tell you a good one...try checking the case length on factory new cases...right out of the box. Makes you stop and consider the loading process. I check the length on brand new cases as well these days.
Being that brass is so malleable....it's a wonder it doesn't stretch out more than it does..unless you full length resize 7mm Mauser ammo. God those cases really flow outwards!! The taper of the case so I've been told.
I have to admit...I don't know all there is in reloading...but I 've been reloading for over 35 years. Using carbide dies or regular dies to reload 44's and 9mm, 357's and so on...I do (Or did..I don't have the 44 anymore) have to trim these cases on occasion. It seems my 357 is more prone to stretching than my 9mm...but again..by using the Lee factory crimp die, I know I could skip this stage and check every other reloading of these cases.
I guess I'm going thru the reloading process out of habit...I can't believe this is a bad thing. I always...always check my rifle rounds for length. It probably doesn't make sense on every rifle round I reload since I neck size only for rifle...but I've never had a problem with ammo feeding out of my 9mm or the 45 ACP either. I check the length on each case.
Tell you a good one...try checking the case length on factory new cases...right out of the box. Makes you stop and consider the loading process. I check the length on brand new cases as well these days.
Being that brass is so malleable....it's a wonder it doesn't stretch out more than it does..unless you full length resize 7mm Mauser ammo. God those cases really flow outwards!! The taper of the case so I've been told.
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I've never had to trim a .45acp case, in fact they seem to shrink.
Back to the topic....I have RCBS, and Dillon dies for the .45, I would suggest the Dillon because they have a separate seater and crimper. If you go with another Die set, get two set/crimp dies so you can put them on separte stations. I had the problem in the single stage reloader of crimping and seating at the same time, it caused a bulge that caused FTF.
Back to the topic....I have RCBS, and Dillon dies for the .45, I would suggest the Dillon because they have a separate seater and crimper. If you go with another Die set, get two set/crimp dies so you can put them on separte stations. I had the problem in the single stage reloader of crimping and seating at the same time, it caused a bulge that caused FTF.
craigcolorado
New member
yeah
I am certain this is why I started checking every case...I'm remembering that I had to throw out way too many loaded rounds with that bulge after crimping with a taper die. No matter...I cannot afford to burn ammo like I use to...so I don't have to load tons of ammo like in the days gone by.
This may be getting off the subject...but Jesus..it's getting pricey for reloading components. I loaded 100 rounds of 30-06 today...Nosler Ballistic Tips cost me $40.00...$3.00 for primers and guessing about $15.00 for the powder. Close to $60.00 for 100 rounds!! I'm including tax but Christ! I'm puzzled how some guys can burn up a couple of hundred rounds every weekend. I know it's less expensive for pistol....but not that much less.
I may have to start loading cast rifle bullets using gas checks. But that's really not gonna help with my usual shooting distances. If I start using my pistols more...I'm gonna have to fire up the melting pot and start my bullet casting diligently.
Later.
I am certain this is why I started checking every case...I'm remembering that I had to throw out way too many loaded rounds with that bulge after crimping with a taper die. No matter...I cannot afford to burn ammo like I use to...so I don't have to load tons of ammo like in the days gone by.
This may be getting off the subject...but Jesus..it's getting pricey for reloading components. I loaded 100 rounds of 30-06 today...Nosler Ballistic Tips cost me $40.00...$3.00 for primers and guessing about $15.00 for the powder. Close to $60.00 for 100 rounds!! I'm including tax but Christ! I'm puzzled how some guys can burn up a couple of hundred rounds every weekend. I know it's less expensive for pistol....but not that much less.
I may have to start loading cast rifle bullets using gas checks. But that's really not gonna help with my usual shooting distances. If I start using my pistols more...I'm gonna have to fire up the melting pot and start my bullet casting diligently.
Later.