Really Hard To Eject Spent Cases From SW 610!

J

jtduncan

New member
I was shooting my SW 610 at the range and noticed that it was really really hard to eject my spent cases from the charging holes/chambers in my cylinder. I
though I was going to bust my crane or ejection rod - real torque was needed.

I was
originally having problems ejecting my reloads and some factory Hornady XTP 180 grain JHPs. They slip into the holes somewhat easy but ejection tests your
strength.

The primers onthe factory and reloads had a funny appearance to them as if they were overpressured. Little inward dimpling but no leaks, cratering, splitting, or
other issues. Even the factory ammo and my reloads were 94 percent of
max so there should have been plenty of margin built in.

My G20 with KKM barrel loves these loads.

My range officer suggested just backing off of the charge done to 90 percent or lower for my 610. My concern is that 10mm is a hunting rounds and the
chambers shouldn't
be so tight that I can't eject commonly shot ammo like Hornady XTPs or Corbon Penetrators - at least during deer hunting season.

I just picked up the gun so I don't know its complete history.

Did a search here and people advised a thorough cleaning of all of the charging holes. And SW apparently fixed the problem by polishing the charging holes in the
cylinder to ease ejection.

Well, I spet a good 30 minutes cleaning the entire revolver including some serious bore and charging hole cleaning with a brass bore brush and some MP7 gel
bore cleaner. It looks brand new.

But I'm still having to exert a lot of force on the ejector rod to eject cases from the charging holes. I loaded my snap caps into a moon clip and even they had a
hard time sliding into the charging holes and a hard time ejecting them.

I was thinking about shipping the gun back to SW and having them fix the problem. Heard they are really good about customer service and do great tune-ups.
Was going to have them look over the gun for me since it is new to me.

BTW, it is a real tack driver. I need to adjust the sights but my groups were under 2" at 15 yards even with the frustation of the ejection problem and shooting in
DA mode with a semi autoloader background. Happy with its accuracy just want better function on the ejection side.

Any other tips?
 
C

C.R.Sam

New member
Couple of thoughts. Load sounds hot for that gun.

Check the diameter of your chamber mouths....at the barrel end.

Slug the barrel.

Measure the base diameters of a bunch of fired cases.

You are at 94 percent of powder charge or pressure ?

Use brass brush sparingly on stainless and never rotate the brush.

Your load. ¿ Exact same case, powder, primer, bullet and seating depth as the specs ?

Sam......split cylinders have sharp hurty edges.
 
M

mobias

Moderator
Hi, Duncan. I too have experienced problems ejecting the spent cases from my 610. I gave up on the moon clips. Just figured they were a lost cause. I bought my 610 just to have some fun at the range, so the loss of the ability to do rapid reloads was really no problem. I took a 1/4" dowel rod and sawed it off and I now use it to push my cases out. Works great. I noticed early on that all my spent cases had pierced primers. My hot 200 grain Normas and my 180 grain powder puff reloads both had them. In my case the problem was a rough spot on the firing pin. I doubt very seriously if what you are shooting is too hot. Back on the subject of the moon clips, if you plan to shoot 40SWs in your gun you will need moons for proper headspacing. But there is really no reason to use 40 SW in your gun, unless you just really want to! And you are right, the 610 is indeed a tack driver. In my opinion, the N frame Smith is the ideal platform for the 10mm cartridge. Regards.
 
1

10mmman

New member
FWIW, Don't use the same brass from your M20 in the 610. If you are, the sloppy chamber in the Glock is expanding the brass too much. Use new brass in the 610 & keep that brass for it. I had problems until I started keeping the brass gun specific.
 
J

jtduncan

New member
I use the Lee FCD for all of my straightwalled cases.

But I'll use more crimp. But won't that increase the pressure further. My cases looked like someone sucked on the open end of the case dimpling the primer slightly inward.

And I'll try brass only for my 610.
 
R

Robert the41MagFan

New member
Lets make an assumption that there is nothing wrong with the gun. That the problem is this weird phenomenon that happens to rimless cases in S&W wheel guns. For some reason the bullets you are making shoot fine in a automatic and then KBM (Yes! It maybe a KBM.) in your revolver. I've seen this happen to other 610 guns and 625's that are chambered for Rowland or using 45 Super's. The worse is the 646 Performance Center, 40 S&W and the titanium cylinder. My reload shot fine in a unsupported chambered G35 and "Boom" in the 646PC. Drove me nuts for months. Again, assume that there is nothing wrong with the gun. I'll eat crow later if there is.

And don't forget to rule out your scale first! Put the calibrating weights on the scale and make sure that your scale is true. When I mean crimp, I mean crimp it! About 1/4 to 1/2 turn more. And back your loads off 10% and work your way up.

Email me if you have any other questions.

Robert
 
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