A few weeks ago, we had an interesting discussion on using the hammer type kinetic bullet pullers.
Here is the link: http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=451390
The above thread primarily discussed the pros & cons of the kinetic bullet pullers, the best way to use a kinetic puller and the differences in quality and/or usefullness of various kinetic pullers.
I took a few pictures of my method and the three pullers used in this simplistic test.
I tried the the Frandfort Arsenal model, an RCBS model and a Berry Bullet Company model. (left to right in the picture). The first and most noticable difference is the Franfort and RCBS models have a metal shaft enclosed in a synthetic handle and hammmer head mechanism. The Berry model is made of a synthetic material and has a black rubberized coated handle. All three are of about equal weight and size; althought the Berry model has a slightly thicker handle. The larger rubber handle might be a little easier to use in case your hands are sweaty or you have bullet or case lubricant on your hands.
The Franfort Arsenal model comes with three collets to use with various size or caliber brass. I am not sure about the RCBS since I acquired this unit used with only one collet. The Berrry unit comes with four collets. All the collets seem to be interchangeable between manufacturers. You deferentiate between the collets to use by ammo size by the number of circles stamped on the back of each collet. The Berry puller also uses a color coded rubberized band holding the three piece collet togehter. I see this as a slight advantage for my aging eyes.
I strike the kinetic hammer against a piece of scrap wood placed in an anvil. I do so by striking the hammer head against the cut end (against the wood grain, see picture). Some of the other forum member prefer striking against concrete, marble, and even lead blocks. I prefer the wood since I know it works, and I do not have to get down on my hands and knees on the concrete (LOL).
My test used a loaded and crimped 9 mm pistol round and a .308 rifle round. It is not a scientifc test since I do not know the exact strength appled during each strike. I tried to make each strike the same and with a snap to my wrist as the hammer head struck the wood. It took only one strike with the Berry hammer to separate both the 9 mm and the .308. It took two strikes by the Frankford model on each round. It took one strike with 9 mm and two strikes with the .308 round with the RCBS puller.
My personal belief is all three work as advertised and are handy on a reloading bench. This informal test might give a slight edge to the Berry model, but I would not pay significantly more for it over the other units.
I do not believe, if used properly, any of these kinetic pullers will break or fail in their mission. I suspect reports of broken kinetic pullers is user error by striking the hammer too hard and with too firm of a grip on the handle. You want the tool to vibrate as it strikes therefore separating the bullet from the brass.
Here are pictures.
Here is the link: http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=451390
The above thread primarily discussed the pros & cons of the kinetic bullet pullers, the best way to use a kinetic puller and the differences in quality and/or usefullness of various kinetic pullers.
I took a few pictures of my method and the three pullers used in this simplistic test.
I tried the the Frandfort Arsenal model, an RCBS model and a Berry Bullet Company model. (left to right in the picture). The first and most noticable difference is the Franfort and RCBS models have a metal shaft enclosed in a synthetic handle and hammmer head mechanism. The Berry model is made of a synthetic material and has a black rubberized coated handle. All three are of about equal weight and size; althought the Berry model has a slightly thicker handle. The larger rubber handle might be a little easier to use in case your hands are sweaty or you have bullet or case lubricant on your hands.
The Franfort Arsenal model comes with three collets to use with various size or caliber brass. I am not sure about the RCBS since I acquired this unit used with only one collet. The Berrry unit comes with four collets. All the collets seem to be interchangeable between manufacturers. You deferentiate between the collets to use by ammo size by the number of circles stamped on the back of each collet. The Berry puller also uses a color coded rubberized band holding the three piece collet togehter. I see this as a slight advantage for my aging eyes.
I strike the kinetic hammer against a piece of scrap wood placed in an anvil. I do so by striking the hammer head against the cut end (against the wood grain, see picture). Some of the other forum member prefer striking against concrete, marble, and even lead blocks. I prefer the wood since I know it works, and I do not have to get down on my hands and knees on the concrete (LOL).
My test used a loaded and crimped 9 mm pistol round and a .308 rifle round. It is not a scientifc test since I do not know the exact strength appled during each strike. I tried to make each strike the same and with a snap to my wrist as the hammer head struck the wood. It took only one strike with the Berry hammer to separate both the 9 mm and the .308. It took two strikes by the Frankford model on each round. It took one strike with 9 mm and two strikes with the .308 round with the RCBS puller.
My personal belief is all three work as advertised and are handy on a reloading bench. This informal test might give a slight edge to the Berry model, but I would not pay significantly more for it over the other units.
I do not believe, if used properly, any of these kinetic pullers will break or fail in their mission. I suspect reports of broken kinetic pullers is user error by striking the hammer too hard and with too firm of a grip on the handle. You want the tool to vibrate as it strikes therefore separating the bullet from the brass.
Here are pictures.
