question from another thread that was closed

[horatioo]

I am not very informed on some things here, so please excuse my ignorance.
Does the quote below mean it is cheaper to reload for 308? If I want to learn to reload does it make much difference what caliber I start learning on? I plan on getting a Remington 700 in either 270, 30-06, or 308. I had about decided on 30-06, but want to learn to reload and am frugal.

"If you are a reloader than .30-06 begins to shine IFF (if and only if) you require the versatility (120 grain to 220 grain bullets). The case accepts/requires a lot of powder, though. If you're just getting into this a .308 Winchester may be a better way to go, if a bit more expensive nowadays as ballistically they are very similar within the bullet weight constraints of the .308 Winchester."


Thanks for any advice.

 

[Ricklin]

Caliber choices

The .308 Win is a more efficent round than 30.06. Overall .308 will be slightly cheaper to reload for, you will burn less powder. Since .308 and Nato 7.62X51use the same case brass should be a little cheaper / more available as well.

But the bottom line is unless your round count will be in the hundreds per month category we are splitting hairs here, we are talking pennies.

Of the three you mentioned if I only had one rifle it would be 30.06 for the versatility. Esp. if you 'roll your own'

 

[gb_in_ga]

Yep. In general, you'll use somewhat less powder in .308, so from that standpoint it is somewhat less expensive to load for. When you look at how much powder goes for per pound, and how many charges per pound you get, I think you'll see that it doesn't really effect the bottom line all that much.

More importantly, you need to keep in mind just what it is you might be using the rifle for. If it is just for deer class game, then honestly .30-06 doesn't offer that much more than .308. Either one does the job just dandy. But, if you fully expect to move on up to elk/moose class, then the ability of .30-06 to handle heavier bullets gives it a decided edge. Not that you can't do it with a .308, but a .30-06 has the upper hand.

Personally, I can't see myself doing much in the way of hunting anything larger than deer, so if it were me then I'd go with the .308. But that's just me, I can certainly see where some would definitely want to go the .30-06 route and were I in their shoes I'd do the same.

Regarding loading for the .270: From a price per round reloading standpoint, it'll be about the same as .30-06. Where the .270 shines is on deer class game at long ranges. Personally, I don't see where I need that long of a range capability, so it doesn't really do that much for me. Again, there are those who really do prefer this round, and they've good reasons to.

 

[horatioo]

Can someone explain some of the costs of reloading? Where does a person go to learn how to reload? Can I just get a good book on the subject and go from there? Are some calibers easier to do then others?

Thanks again for any advice.

 

[gb_in_ga]

Can someone explain some of the costs of reloading?

You have your 1 time equipment costs -- which you can spend a little and get acceptable results, or spend a lot and get good results, too. This has been discussed over and over in the reloading forum -- go give 'em a look-see.

Then you have your components cost:

Brass: Either buy it new or collect it when you are at the range. Or both. Brass life depends on the round and your reloading practices.

Bullets: 1 shot = 1 bullet. Since you are talking about rifle reloading, then you are talking about jacketed bullets.

Powder: Different powders require different charges in different calibers. Not all powders are suitable for all calibers. Powder choice can be a pretty big decision. Get some good loading manuals, they'll point you in the right direction. Oh, and this sort of thing is discussed -- you got it -- in the reloading forum.

Primers: All 3 of the rounds you are interested in take Large Rifle primers. There are several brands, it is mostly personal preference which brand to get. 1 shot = 1 primer.

Oh, and keep in mind that you'll get hit with some hefty HAZMAT fees if you have powder or primers shipped to you. So, if possible it is cheaper to buy those locally. If you must have them shipped, it is better to get them in larger quantities so as to minimize those fees. No such fees are associated with bullets or brass.

Where does a person go to learn how to reload? Can I just get a good book on the subject and go from there?

Well, you could go on over to the reloading forum and poke around for some pointers. Getting a good book is a GOOD idea. More than 1 is even better. Lee makes a good book. Finding a local mentor who is willing to help, or let you look in while he works is also a good idea. I learned from my father.

Are some calibers easier to do then others?

There are some that have some "gotchas", but the 3 you expressed interest in are all fairly straightforward.

 

[horatioo]

thank you everyone for the answers

Horatio

 

[shooter_john]

To help calculate reloading cost:

Powder is locally to me is $18-$25 lb, and there are 7000 grains in a lb.
(308 based cases will take 40-48gr of powder, 30-06 will take 45-55 grains... VERY MUCH ROUNDABOUT NUMBERS THERE, the exact powder you're using will dictate that actual number)

So at $25/lb, that's $0.004/gr of powder

Primers locally are around $30 per 1,000, $0.03/ primer

Since you've primarily talked about 308 and 30-06, we'll look at 30 cal (.308 diameter) bullets. They'll range from around $18 for FMJ's to $40-$50/ for the premium stuff, per 100 bullets. Most of my 30 cal stuff that I use (BTHP's and A-Max) average about $26/ 100pcs, so thats $0.26/ bullet.

Brass, you may have some stockpiled, or you can purchase once fired brass for pretty cheap (and you can use it several times). New Remington/ Winchester brass will run you about $35/ 100 pcs for common stuff if you prefer to buy new. But I couldn't tell you the last time I paid for 308 or 3006 brass, so we'll just say that's free.

So for me, a 308 Win load using 45.0gr of powder cost me:
.18 powder
.03 primer
.26 bullet
$0.47 ea (9.40/ box of 20)

And that is for a sub MOA cartridge... Compare that to $30 for a box Federal Gold Medal Match, and you see the savings pretty quick.

 

[dgludwig]

There is an elephant in the room that nobody wants you to see; rolling your own can end up being a lot more expensive because you will end up shooting a lot more. Welcome to the dark side!

 

[gb_in_ga]

There is an elephant in the room that nobody wants you to see; rolling your own can end up being a lot more expensive because you will end up shooting a lot more. Welcome to the dark side!

Oh, and that's not the only elephant in the room. There's also the time elephant. Not only will you shoot more, but you'll spend ever increasing amounts of time on the reloading bench.

 

[Pathfinder45]

You Mentioned 3 Calibers

Since you're getting a Remington 700 rather than say, a Marlin 30-30; I can't help but presume you expect to shoot it some at longer range. You picked the three best calibers for price and availability of factory ammo. My opinion: .308 is good; .30-06 is better; .270 Winchester is best of the three. All three are more efficent with their powder than the magnums. I don't think you can go wrong with the .30-06. They say it will do it all and I believe it. If you're recoil-sensitive; the .243 is also in the same class for ammo sales but not in the same class performance-wise. Good luck!

 

[Picher]

The elephant in the closet is in drag. He's not to be considered "normal". In 50 years of handloading, I'd never heard that complaint.

People don't shoot more because they reload, they reload because they want to shoot more for the same money; they want accurate rounds, fitted to their chambers; they want to shoot bullets that aren't readily available in loaded rounds; they feel better about recycling all that brass; they want to be able to shoot reduced, or more powerful loads than available commercially; they feel like they're more knowledgeable, proficient and capable members of the shooting fraternity.

Picher

 

[shooter_john]

The Elephant...

made me spend a couple of hours out in the shop yesterday. My 2 year old son and I went out (he loves to pull the ram) and loaded up a few hundred 223's, and then prepped a couple hundred pieces of 30-06 brass. He'd hand me the "shiney", I'd trim, de-burr, and polish, and then return it to him to put in a carrier. I love the elephant!!!

 

[jdscholer]

Nuther thing to think about, is if you're not planning on chasing anything larger than deer, is the 243/6mm's. Very versitle with bullet weights, mo fun to shoot at smaller stuff, low recoil, I could go on.
Basic equipment; single stage press, set of dies, powder scale, and good book can get ya started very economically. At a gun show a couple of weeks ago, I saw all those items- good stuff- priced $50, $15, $35, and $10, respectively. Make a buddy if you don't already have one that loads, and have him help you with your choices, but always consult the book when it comes to componants and loads.
You've already got thousands of buddies on this forum, and the good ones will tell ya to read the book.
If you choose it, welcome to a very enjoyable hobby. jd

 

[Smokey Joe]

What book?

Horatio--You've gotten some xlnt advice above. If, that is, IF you can find someone to be a mentor for you, learn from that person. Hands-on learning is in most cases the best.

You've been advised to read the book; that's good. You want a loading manual along with yr reloading equipment--it is like a recipe book, tested by experts and probably safe to load in yr personal Old Betsy.

But you also want a "how-to" and "why-and-why-not-to" book, and you oughta read this, IMHO, before purchasing any equipment. The "standard text" for reloading is called The ABC's of Reloading and is put out by Krause Publishing. www.krause.com

Get it @ yr local sptg gds sto, gun sho, or order over the I'net from Amazon or the like, or the publisher sells it direct.

Covers all aspects of reloading, and goes beyond the basics. Belongs on every reloaders' bookshelf, well thumbed, IMHO. After reading The ABC's, you will have a very good idea of exactly what equipment you (1) must have to get started, (2) want beyond #1, and (3) can wait until later on.

Krause must be doing something right; the book is currently in its 8th edition.

As to starting with .270, .308, or .30-'06, it's like a litter of Lab puppies--it doesn't matter. Close yr eyes and pick one. The quality of the resulting retriever will depend a lot more on the time and effort you spend in training it. Likewise with the quality of the ammo and the shooting you get with any one of the Big 3.

I'd pick the rifle first, not the cartridge, anyhow. Pick one that "fits" you, that feels good to operate, to you. If it calls your name from the rack in the gun store, grab it & take it home.

But first, read up. Read The ABC's. Oh, and welcome to The Magnificent Obsession--Reloading!

 

[dgludwig]

I second the ABCs suggestion. The book is as good as it gets for the beginner and, after fifty years or so of reloading, I still reference it from time to time.

 

[dewmonkey6]

And the good thing is if you dont want to spend the money right off the bat go to your nearest library and check out the ABC's of reloading thats what I did and Ive been happily reloading now for 2 years and loving every min of it. Dewmonkey

 

[crowbeaner]

Well, here are some numbers for your .308 and 30-06 comparison since I am the world's foremost tightwad when it comes to reloading costs: The Sierra 150 grain Prohunter flatbase costs the same for both rifles; the primer cost is the same; the brass for the '06 cost me a nickel a pop (LC68); the 308 brass was a quarter apiece (WW). I use 48.0 of WW 748 for the '06 load, and 46.5 for the 308. So far the '06 has saved me .20 each just in the brass. The 1.5 grains of powder is negligible. Both will do the same job, and velocity is close on both loads. I shoot the '06 because if I want to use 180 grain or heavier bullets, the.308 flags over 168 grains; the '06 will shoot 180s at 2650, 190s at 2550, and 200s at 2450. The 200 will shoot through a moose with no problem, and it will suffice for most hunting of really large game that I'll ever be able to buy or draw a tag for. I just don't see where the 308 is a better round.

 

[Art Eatman]

Where you save money in reloading is that it keeps you out of the beer joints at night. And if you can get Sweet Thing interested in the fun of it all, you save on dinners and movies.

 

[Inspector3711]

The rule of thumb about reloading manuals is to read at least two books before starting. The general consensus is that it's wise to get a book issued by a powder manufacturer. Get a second book from a bullet manufacturer.

I have manuals from Hodgden, Speer, Hornady, and Sierra.

Once you read the parts about how it all works you will have at least two viewpoints by going with a powder and a bullet mfr's manual.

One more thing about books... I have four because I got them for free as hand me downs. I'm a frugal SOB so I take what I can get for free or cheap... One of my tricks is that as I add a caliber, I get the "Complete Reloading Manual" for that specific caliber. It contains data from nearly every powder company and bullet company for that caliber for about $7. I have one for each cartridge I reload.

I get my techniques from the big manuals and my load data from the little book I buy for each caliber.

 

[Ozzieman]

Before I would start buying any reloading hardware I would go to a gun range and ask around. Ask around for some one to help you start reloading.
Gun people are some of the friendliest and helpful hobbyist you will find. This forum is proof of that. You will learn more from watching an old hand than reading the manuals. You still need to read them but a lot of the short cuts and the good equipment to buy is something you learn from an experienced reloader, not from reading.
Things like a Wilson case trimmer.
Good powder measures VS really great powder measures.
You can put out a lot of money and end up with not so great equipment. If you get the chance to see some of the process of reloading it will help you understand what is needed.
Then read the manual, and read it again.
The following web site is a great company with some of the best products you can buy for reloading.


http://www.sinclairintl.com/