Question About S&W Revolver Action Work

mikey357

New member
I've done a couple "action jobs" on my own S&W revolvers, with mostly good results. One thing I have NOT tried, but would like to, is to polish the INSIDE of the rebound slide-where the rebound spring lives! Anybody have suggestions on how to best accomplish this? Thanks....mikey357
 

JK

New member
Mikey, I take a 1/8" piece of drill rod and tape a piece of emery paper to it, wrap it around the drillrod, wet it with kerosene and chuck it up in a dremel tool. I then put it into the rebound slide and run it back and fourth until smooth. It works for me. Others may have other ideas. John K
 

LIProgun

New member
Why?

This is something I have not done. What is the (potential) benefit? Not a criticism, but I can't see the benefit as long as the rebound spring is not binding. Enlighten me, please!!
 

E. BeauBeaux

New member
Maybe I'm missing something here. I have never done this and like LIProgun can't see the benefit. Always willing to learn, so let us know what's up with this or is it just something you want to do.
 

PKAY

New member
Jerry Kuhnhausen includes this process in his book as part of a whole number of processes that can be done to enhance the smoothness of the S&W action. I think one is supposed to take them in their totality rather than singley. Sort of like stacking tolerances only in reverse!
 
We were taught to do so at Lassen College. They told us that it helps ensures smooth compression of the rebound slide spring. It's part of the total of all efforts.
 

E. BeauBeaux

New member
Today is a good day, I've learned something new. Thanks for the posts. Guess this weekend I can play with the rebound slide as a passtime. Gary it is part of the total of all efforts you say. Well I've done the other stuff that I know to do so might as well finish the job. Again thanks for teaching an old dog a new trick.
 

Ken Cook

New member
If nothing else, it will reduce wear on the rebound spring.
I've seen some spring tunnels that looked like they were bored out with a rusty hand drill, and that CAN'T be good for the spring.
 

labgrade

Member In Memoriam
Did a search on Smith action tuning & only came up with this post that was anywhere close ....

Sorry & a bit brain-dead for the moment .....

Recently inherited :-( an M-series revolver which I'd like to tune a bit .... & would appreciate a steerig towards a 12/00-1/01 post that dealt with tuning same. Post dealt with action jobs & most specifically NOT to just turn out the mainspring screw ....

Would very much like to tune this pistol for The Wife's use AND any steerings towards any other Smith K-frame (leaf-type mainspring) action tunings sites that y'all may know about.

Thank you.
 
Wait a minute, Lab...

An M-frame?

A small, 7-shot blued or nickle-plated .22 revolver?

If that's what you've got, I'll say this as loudly as I can...

DON'T MESS WITH IT!

Let me say that again...

DON'T MESS WITH IT!

Ok, here's why.

The M-frames, or LadySmiths (the ORIGINAL LadySmith revolver) are extremely collectible.

One in nearly new condition can bring well over $1,000 from a collector.

These guns are old. They should NOT be shot with modern ammunition, even standard velocity ammunition.

Because of their small size, the parts inside are rather delicate. If you mess up a part, or break a part, you'll play hell trying to find a replacement.

If you've really got an M-frame LadySmith, leave it alone and retire it to a nice, safe, comfortable place, or sell it and use the proceeds to get a couple of replacement guns.
 

labgrade

Member In Memoriam
Well, Mike, that's what I get for posting before engaging my brain ....

It's an M-series as in M(odel), as in a K-15. 'Course, I guess they're all "M-series" in that perspective. Nope, No oldy Ladysmith, just the standard K-15, .38 cal.

Saw a post a few back about tuning Smith revolvers & the "don't just back out the mainspring screw"-type post, couldn't find anything further (or that post in fact) & was hoping for a steer.
 
Labgrade,

Ah, gotcha! Boy, you really had me nervous there for a little big. :D

Ok, probably the best thing you can do is simply replace the main spring and the rebound slide spring (trigger return spring) with a set of lighter springs from Wolff.

This often makes a dramatic difference in the apparent trigger pull.

If you know your way around guns and are mechanically inclined, then you should get a copy of the "S&W Revolver Shop Manual" by Jerry Khunhausen. It's an EXCELLENT book, with lots of nifty stuff that you can do even if you don't know all that much about S&Ws.
 
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