PTFE / Teflon on a Sear?
- Thread starter TXAZ
- Start date
ShootistPRS
New member
Teflon wears when steel rubs it. That is why they make all those plastic spoons and spatulas. You are much better off just polishing the pieces properly than try to hide a poor job with a coating that will wear off.
Gunplummer
New member
You can get it "Hardcoated".
S&W Armorer's School recommended a slurry of JB Bore Compound with well-shaken Break-free CLP, which has Teflon in it, being put in a revolver mechanism and then just working the double-action trigger until it produced a "buttery smooth" feel. Unlike the Teflon/hard material matrix coated onto cookware, the soft pure Teflon smears around, so it doesn't flake or chip off like the cookware coatings and can last a long time. The JB compound would polish the surface and help bind the Teflon to the surface.
But I don't recall ever hearing of someone doing that to the single-action revolver trigger or any semi-auto trigger. If you want a crisp trigger break you need some static friction, and in a semi-auto, you don't want a trigger that can be jarred off easily, so, again, some degree of friction is desirable. Also, once you've worked the Teflon into the metal surface, you won't get it out again without removing a layer of metal, so this is the kind of experiment you save for doing with a spare hammer and sear that you can replace if you get doubling or other issues.
But I don't recall ever hearing of someone doing that to the single-action revolver trigger or any semi-auto trigger. If you want a crisp trigger break you need some static friction, and in a semi-auto, you don't want a trigger that can be jarred off easily, so, again, some degree of friction is desirable. Also, once you've worked the Teflon into the metal surface, you won't get it out again without removing a layer of metal, so this is the kind of experiment you save for doing with a spare hammer and sear that you can replace if you get doubling or other issues.
Gunplummer
New member
Uncle Nick
I remember a special sear with a clip and spring (Gov issue) for the .45 auto match pistol. We rarely worked on them, and it has been a long time, but I remember it was a hair trigger. It can be done, but like you said, you have to look at all the scenarios. Might be able to TIN plate certain areas too.
I remember a special sear with a clip and spring (Gov issue) for the .45 auto match pistol. We rarely worked on them, and it has been a long time, but I remember it was a hair trigger. It can be done, but like you said, you have to look at all the scenarios. Might be able to TIN plate certain areas too.
GP,
Are you thinking of the Goldcup sear? Little coil spring in a hole drilled into the right front sear foot and a small tab that retained it and that shared the sear pin? It was supposed to act as a buffer when the trigger bow bounced against it after the shooter depressed the slide release. It was to prevent an accidental discharge from that bounce, thereby allowing the trigger to be set up lighter before that became a hazard again. Given the weight of the wide, solid steel trigger stirrup, that was an issue in that gun. A skeletonized aluminum trigger stirrup accomplished much the same thing by removing a lot of the inertia the steel trigger had.
TXAZ,
I didn't mean to move the post over to handguns. It's just that they are the only place I am aware of Teflon having been applied substantially to smooth a trigger mechanism. That said, since Break-Free CLP was used for a long time by soldiers, a lot of M16 triggers will defacto have had Teflon put into them.
An issue with a heavy recoiling semi-auto is how the trigger resets. The Garand and M14 are known to double or triple when recoil moves the gun back from the shooter's trigger hand and into the shoulder far enough to let the trigger reset, and then fires the gun when the shoulder's elasticity pushes the gun and trigger back forward against the trigger finger. I don't know if that scenario is possible with the Barrett as I haven't had an opportunity to shoot or disassemble one. If it is possible, the long trigger stage may be necessary to help prevent it from occurring. It also may not. I would call Barrett and discuss it with them. They may be able to offer to do a trigger job for you.
Are you thinking of the Goldcup sear? Little coil spring in a hole drilled into the right front sear foot and a small tab that retained it and that shared the sear pin? It was supposed to act as a buffer when the trigger bow bounced against it after the shooter depressed the slide release. It was to prevent an accidental discharge from that bounce, thereby allowing the trigger to be set up lighter before that became a hazard again. Given the weight of the wide, solid steel trigger stirrup, that was an issue in that gun. A skeletonized aluminum trigger stirrup accomplished much the same thing by removing a lot of the inertia the steel trigger had.
TXAZ,
I didn't mean to move the post over to handguns. It's just that they are the only place I am aware of Teflon having been applied substantially to smooth a trigger mechanism. That said, since Break-Free CLP was used for a long time by soldiers, a lot of M16 triggers will defacto have had Teflon put into them.
An issue with a heavy recoiling semi-auto is how the trigger resets. The Garand and M14 are known to double or triple when recoil moves the gun back from the shooter's trigger hand and into the shoulder far enough to let the trigger reset, and then fires the gun when the shoulder's elasticity pushes the gun and trigger back forward against the trigger finger. I don't know if that scenario is possible with the Barrett as I haven't had an opportunity to shoot or disassemble one. If it is possible, the long trigger stage may be necessary to help prevent it from occurring. It also may not. I would call Barrett and discuss it with them. They may be able to offer to do a trigger job for you.
Gunplummer
New member
I think the .45 I am talking about was listed as "National match" in the TMs. A slide came "In the white" and was over size. I never put one on, but had one shipped by mistake from supply.
Gunplummer
New member
You are probably right. I seem to "Pre date" everything these days
Thanks Unclenick.
No problem I actually received the JB paste today and had the VLP.
I hope to polish the components this weekend then apply the 'slurry'.
I'll re measure the pull and we will see.
As to 'bounce' or 'bump' firing a Barrett, I haven't been able to get it to do that.
It's 30+ lbs of weight that's going to move a couple of inches, and the bolt carrier has a long way to travel before the trigger resets. So my guess is the timing will sent like an AK that will empty the mag if you hold it and the trigger just right.
(And if you get to the DFW area, you're welcome to give the Barrett a try at bump fire. )
No problem I actually received the JB paste today and had the VLP.
I hope to polish the components this weekend then apply the 'slurry'.
I'll re measure the pull and we will see.
As to 'bounce' or 'bump' firing a Barrett, I haven't been able to get it to do that.
It's 30+ lbs of weight that's going to move a couple of inches, and the bolt carrier has a long way to travel before the trigger resets. So my guess is the timing will sent like an AK that will empty the mag if you hold it and the trigger just right.
(And if you get to the DFW area, you're welcome to give the Barrett a try at bump fire. )
g.willikers
New member
The slickest trigger I've had was done as Unclenick sez.
JP bore compound and CLP, a real good cleaning and finished up with anti-seize, the kind used for steel bolts in aluminum.
JP bore compound and CLP, a real good cleaning and finished up with anti-seize, the kind used for steel bolts in aluminum.