Protective lubricants ?

[Jump boot]

I'm baaack !
I was wondering about the( Rusty Duck protective lubricant ) after seeing it at Walmart. After reading the back of the can,I couldn't find anything that related to petroleum.Would this be a good product to use ? I am of the understanding that petroleum products have no place around a black powder revolver,but I am not really sure about that either as I have read so many train of thoughts on the matter.I ask,because after careful cleaning of my 1858,with Ballistol,in very hot water,drying and then wiping down and set aside to dry,and then wiping it down with Ballistol,I found rust in several locations a week later.I am not comfortable yet with completely tearing the revolver completely down ,until,I get my new printer for the computer,so I can have the information sitting in front of me,while I do it.But I am worried about the lock works,springs etc.I have all kinds of cleaning supplies as I am into many other shooting sports such as pistol's ( 1911 ) variety,and long range rifle shooting and the list goes on,but this is my first time involvement with black powder revolvers and I want to protect my investment properly.What do you gentleman use?

 

[armedandsafe]

I use the Ballistol/hot water for cleaning, and follow that with the WonderLube for preservative. Moving parts get regular gun oil/Lubriplate treatment.

Works for me.

Pops

 

[Steve499]

As I understand things, the no petroleum restriction applies only to the barrel and nipple on a rifle, or the cylinder's chambers and nipples on a revolver. I don't want it anywhere it could contact and kill the powder or cap of a load. I have some of that Rusty Duck stuff and I just assumed it was petroleum based, but I have no problem with squirting it around on the frame and internals of my revolvers or wiping the outside of my rifles down with it after I clean them.

Like a lot of things, there could be many reasons for a certain result and the one you think might not be it, but I used to be absolutely PLAGUED with misfires in any muzzle loader I used. When I stopped using the wd-40, break free, rem oil or whatever inside the barrel or chambers, those misfires became a rarity. I lubricate those areas with olive oil now, have had no rusting at all in 5 or 6 years. I still use other things from time to time, but only on the areas which won't be in contact with powder or caps.

Steve

 

[arcticap]

It's my understanding that the warning against using petroleum products isn't just to prevent misfires, but also to prevent creating what's reported to be a tar like fouling residue that results from it's interaction with real black powder during firing. I suppose that since many companies made oiled patches and patch lubricants using a petroleum base for many years, it means that the residue is only a relatively mild deterrent to using it for that purpose, and that folks who routinely swab between shots won't suffer too many ill effects from it's use. But at least it's good to know that using some petroleum products does have consequences.
For instance, mineral oil is a petroleum product, it's a preferred ingredient in patch lubes (like Wonderlube & Bore Butter) and also has pharmacological uses.
Here's another example of a petroleum based patch lube which contains petroleum sufonate.

 

[Jump boot]

Thanks again fellow shooters,some interesting views and I agree.

 

[armedandsafe]

it's a preferred ingredient in patch lubes (like Wonderlube & Bore Butter)

Interesting, as WonderLube, including the bottle I have in my hand, has always made the claim of being "100% natural." Now, I know that one can argue that petroleum is "natural," but that phrase is intended, and understood by most, to mean "no petroleum based products included."

I have always understood the the use of petroleum products did not cause harm, nor any detriment to the life/accuracy of the barrel/nipple, but that the natural seasoning of the barrel obtained by the use of the vegetable/animal products would protect the barrel better, should you not be able to do a thorough cleaning immediately after shooting.

Pops

 

[Williamr]

Extra Virgin Olive Oil!!!!!!!

Extra Virgin olive oil is the answer to most gun lubricants, both smokeless and Black Powder weapons. I might clean a hard to clean firearm with a solvent first such as WD-40 or if real dirty - Ascetone. Be extra careful with Ascetone. Then coat all metal parts and bore with extra virgin olive oil. I also use olive oil to lube my brass that I reload. I use it in forming one case from another. No more cases stuck in dies. Good on salads to.

 

[arcticap]

The main problem with olive oil (and other vegetable oils), is that over a period of years it will turn into a sticky goo. As long as it's being applied and removed on an intermittent basis and the gun isn't just being stored and forgotten about, then the transformation of the oil into semisolid goop probably won't have a chance to occur, but it's something that folks should be aware of.

 

[l.cutler]

Others will disagree, but this is what works for me. I have been muzzleloading for thirtysomething years, and used to clean with the hot water thing. I often had minor flash rusting after cleaning. I now only use cold water,no detergents. It cleans the powder residue without removing the oils out of the metal. After cleaning and drying I oil it, I have used WD40, Ballistol, plain old 3in one oil, motor oil with no problem with any of them. I have been doing it this way for the last 10 years, and have never had any rusting or problem of any kind.