Proper care for a new 1911

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chupps

New member
I picked up my new Springfield mil spec and the gun shop gave me the following advice:

- Don't field strip it right away. Shoot 200-500 rounds thru it first.

- no need to lube, use only a cleaner that dries completely, no breakfree CLP or equivalent.

The first thing makes a bit of sense, but the second surprised me. I've always understood use lube sparingly and wipe dry, but none at all?

What do you guys do?
 
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JamEEson

New member
Some weapons come from the factory with preset lubricants and state to not add or wipe away excess fuild that comes with them. I have only see this with some Les Baers 1911, that are told to not lubricate/disassemble until after 500 rds.

Another would be GLOCK. They have the red colored break-in lube on the slides for a reason.

Some weapons also come bone dry from the factory and by not lubing the only thing you will be doing is clearing jams and adding wear to your pistol.

With that said, you will be fine with your milspec. CLP will not hurt your weapon if applied correctly.
 
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Chipperman

New member
I always field strip and run a patch through the barrel of any new gun. Hate to find out the hard way there is an obstruction or something else funny going on with it.

I typically use CLP sparingly but no grease.

YMMV.
 
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madmag

New member
Disagree

Well, I guess everyone has a different take on care of a 1911, mine is a Colt not a Springfield, but I don't think that makes any difference.

I would field strip and clean first. Remove factory lube and check for obstructions.

I would lube the slide with good gun grease. CLP or just light oil is OK for the other parts. Clean the bore with good bore cleaner.

I even detail strip (clean & lube) my 1911 on occasion. It's not hard to do and I think if you own a 1911 you should be able to detail strip.
 
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chupps

New member
He gave me the impression that he meant no CLP throughout the life of the gun. Maybe I just misunderstood.

Read the manual? What's that? There is a whole new thread - who reads manuals:)
 
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Don P

New member
My opinion and I do own a Mil-Spec. Field strip it, run a patch through the barrel. Run another patch through the barrel with a little oil on it. Put 2 drops of oil on each slide rail, a drop of oil on the barrel hood, a drop on the bushing and put it back together and shoot it. You should be good to go in 2-500 rounds of break-in. After my break-in my Mil-Spec runs like a champ. Be prepared that you may encounter some failures during break-in. (failure to feed) (failure to eject) all normal.

no breakfree CLP or equivalent.
Click to expand...
I use it without problems. Go figure
 
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Steam Boat

New member
"Why any oil at all ?"

Dry Steel Slide against Dry Steel Frame = steel filings, Dry Steel Slide against Dry Alloy Frame = Aluminum filings.
Most manufacturers ship their products coated with rust preventatives rather than an actual gun lubrication. Field strip, clean and lubricate before firing and especially the barrel.
I had a weapon that I purchased from a gun shop back in Kansas several years ago that when I field striped to clean before firing had a dead spider lodged in the barrel.
 
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Brian48

New member
I field strip, clean, and lube with CLP every gun I've bought before firing (new or used, 1911 or otherwise).
 
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JamEEson

New member
Dry Steel Slide against Dry Steel Frame = steel filings, Dry Steel Slide against Dry Alloy Frame = Aluminum filings.
Most manufacturers ship their products coated with rust preventatives rather than an actual gun lubrication. Field strip, clean and lubricate before firing and especially the barrel.
I had a weapon that I purchased from a gun shop back in Kansas several years ago that when I field striped to clean before firing had a dead spider lodged in the barrel.
Click to expand...

Steamboat, If you read my post, I have nothing against cleaning certain new guns before shooting.... but my questions stands....after cleaning, why would you want oil in the barrel prior to shooting??
 
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Shane Tuttle

Staff
I don't give a rat's behind what one would say. I've been known to be a big Srpingfield fan. But I trust NO new gun until I personally field strip it, clean the factory garbage off of it, visually inspect it, and lube it myself.

What kind and where is an open debate. I have my personal preferences. But the most generic yet most effective way to remember is oil on pivot points, grease on sliding/high friction points. Either way, be sure to use your lubricant sparingly. I've never known for any firearm that I have to do own to need it soaking wet with lubricant. It does more harm than good, IMO.

Breakfree CLP? I'm not a fan of it but for one to say not to use it is ludicrous. Several million gunowners' firearms are being harmed if that's the case...:rolleyes:
 
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KyJim

New member
There's a good video from American Handgunner that may be of help at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9eUacqOIAaU

I do tend to use oil, rather than grease. I also run a 1911 on the wet side the first 300 rounds or so. I'll put a drop or two of oil or Breakfree CLP on the slide every 50 or so rounds when breaking a gun in. After breaking it in, I'll cut back on the amount of oil. You shouldn't have to worry about excess oil attracting dirt when breaking in a gun because you're just shooting it at the range and not carrying it all day. I like Mobil 1 but there are several good lubricants.
 
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JamEEson

New member
I don't give a rat's behind what one would say. I've been known to be a big Srpingfield fan. But I trust NO new gun until I personally field strip it, clean the factory garbage off of it, visually inspect it, and lube it myself.

What kind and where is an open debate. I have my personal preferences. But the most generic yet most effective way to remember is oil on pivot points, grease on sliding/high friction points. Either way, be sure to use your lubricant sparingly. I've never known for any firearm that I have to do own to need it soaking wet with lubricant. It does more harm than good, IMO.

Breakfree CLP? I'm not a fan of it but for one to say not to use it is ludicrous. Several million gunowners' firearms are being harmed if that's the case...
Click to expand...

Most weapons are different, for a milspec springer it would not matter to use some CLP

But go strip the slide of any new factory Glock. You will see red synthetic paste on the rails which is to be left on for after a few hundred rounds.

Les Baer 1911's are another factory gun that you should not " clean the factory garbage off it " as they come with a break in lubricant

Don't want to do this? You may not have a warranty....
Best to read your manuals
 
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VHinch

New member
JamEEson said:
But go strip the slide of any new factory Glock. You will see red synthetic paste on the rails which is to be left on for after a few hundred rounds.
Click to expand...

It's really not that special. It's called Fel-Pro, and it's an automotive anti-seize lubricant. Glock does recommend leaving it on for the first 500 rounds, but the Glock Armorers course states that it's perfectly fine to remove it and use a lube of your choice. Warranty is not affected by removal.


JamEEson said:
Les Baer 1911's are another factory gun that you should not " clean the factory garbage off it " as they come with a break in lubricant
Click to expand...

Even less special. Les Baer uses nothing in their shop but Breakfree CLP. Les Baer does recommend not field stripping and cleaning for the first 500 rounds, but to most certainly keep the weapon lubed during that period. Field stripping and cleaning will not void any warranty, but it is quite a pain in the arse due to how tight Baer 1911's are built.

To answer the OP's question, whether or not you field strip and clean before shooting is really just a matter of preference, especially on that 1911. I would advise keeping the weapon properly lubed regardless however.
 
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ROGER4314

New member
"I don't give a rat's behind what one would say. I've been known to be a big Srpingfield fan. But I trust NO new gun until I personally field strip it, clean the factory garbage off of it, visually inspect it, and lube it myself."

I agree with the above 100%. Had a used Remington 11-48 shotgun blow up in my face because it went off with an unlocked bolt. I didn't pull the trigger....it went off as I was chambering a round and the bolt handle was clutched in my hand after it blew. The shell was still crimped and everything came out of the ejection port.

The shotgun was just dirty and I shot it for years after I collected all the parts, cleaned it and put it together. Consequently, I live by the above.....I clean and lube everything before shooting.

1911's? We certainly have diverging opinions on this subject, don't we? Been shooting 1911's for a long time and have broken in a few new ones, too. My 2 cents? I clean, lube and inspect before firing a new or new to me pistol. After the parts are clean, I use CLP or a good gun oil then spray the parts off with an air hose. What is left after the blow off is perfect for lubrication of the pistol. There should be no accumulation of lubrication on the parts.

I would not run a semi auto firearm without lube any more than I'd drain the oil out of my car engine then take off for Wally World in it.

The only exception I know of to that policy of lubrication is in extreme cold environments. Folks in those climates clean all oil off of the parts and run them dry or the oil will thicken and keep the gun from functioning.

Happy Holidays!

Flash
 
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