I was shooting some JSP magnum rounds and I noticed that the portions of the bullet's jacket was shaved off by the forcing cone. You could see the metal on the top side of the forcing cone. Obviously something is not right. What is wrong and what will it take to fix it? Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks.
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Problem with my S&W 586
- Thread starter chupps
- Start date
Shaving lead (or part of the jacket) is usually a sign of a revolver being out of time. The cylinder is just slightly out of alignment with the bore. Take it to a competent gunsmith, and they can usually check it out and adjust it.
Your other alternative is to call S&W. They'll repair, but the cost and time for repairs may be more than a good local gunsmith.
Good luck.
Your other alternative is to call S&W. They'll repair, but the cost and time for repairs may be more than a good local gunsmith.
Good luck.
carguychris
New member
Did this occur shooting single-action (SA), double-action (DA), or both?
The timing on a S&W revolver is mostly regulated by the cylinder stop, the little nub sticking out of the bottom of the cylinder window, just above the trigger. It engages cylinder stop notches in the cylinder. Here's how to check it.
SA: Verify that the revolver is unloaded; do NOT put snap caps or empty cases in the chambers. Cock the revolver, drop the hammer, and hold the trigger down. Grasp the cylinder gently with your thumb and forefinger and turn it slightly in both directions with a wiggling motion. Repeat for all 6 chambers.
Cylinder is stationary or wiggles an imperceptible amount from side to side: GOOD. Cylinder freely turns in one direction, but when you turn it in the other direction, you hear a "tick" and then it stops: BAD. (This indicates that the cylinder stop is not lined up with the stop notch when the hammer drops.) Cylinder wiggles a noticeable amount from side to side, far enough that you can really see it: BAD. (Excess cylinder stop wear.)
DA: This is a little trickier. Verify that the revolver is unloaded; do NOT put snap caps or empty cases in the chambers. Sloooowly draw the trigger back while holding the cylinder next to your ear. You should hear the "tick" of the cylinder stop engaging right before the hammer falls. Hold the trigger down and repeat the SA tests. NOTE: You may need to repeat the test several times because the stop notch engagement point is so close to the point when the hammer drops that it's hard to draw the trigger back slowly enough to hear the difference.
Good luck!
The timing on a S&W revolver is mostly regulated by the cylinder stop, the little nub sticking out of the bottom of the cylinder window, just above the trigger. It engages cylinder stop notches in the cylinder. Here's how to check it.
SA: Verify that the revolver is unloaded; do NOT put snap caps or empty cases in the chambers. Cock the revolver, drop the hammer, and hold the trigger down. Grasp the cylinder gently with your thumb and forefinger and turn it slightly in both directions with a wiggling motion. Repeat for all 6 chambers.
Cylinder is stationary or wiggles an imperceptible amount from side to side: GOOD. Cylinder freely turns in one direction, but when you turn it in the other direction, you hear a "tick" and then it stops: BAD. (This indicates that the cylinder stop is not lined up with the stop notch when the hammer drops.) Cylinder wiggles a noticeable amount from side to side, far enough that you can really see it: BAD. (Excess cylinder stop wear.)
DA: This is a little trickier. Verify that the revolver is unloaded; do NOT put snap caps or empty cases in the chambers. Sloooowly draw the trigger back while holding the cylinder next to your ear. You should hear the "tick" of the cylinder stop engaging right before the hammer falls. Hold the trigger down and repeat the SA tests. NOTE: You may need to repeat the test several times because the stop notch engagement point is so close to the point when the hammer drops that it's hard to draw the trigger back slowly enough to hear the difference.
Good luck!
Winchester_73
New member
SA: Verify that the revolver is unloaded; do NOT put snap caps or empty cases in the chambers. Cock the revolver, drop the hammer, and hold the trigger down. Grasp the cylinder gently with your thumb and forefinger and turn it slightly in both directions with a wiggling motion. Repeat for all 6 chambers.
Why would you do it this way? I always checked older Colts this way, but not S&Ws.
For lockup/play suspicion, here is what I would do (tell me if this is wrong)
For SA, I would cock the gun and try to move the cylinder without pulling the trigger, since AFAIK, a S&W locks up before the trigger is pulled. I would of course cycle the gun to check each chamber, but checking them all in this manner.
For DA, I would rotate the cylinder, and then try to move it with the hammer down and the trigger fully forward.
This is what I would do for a S&W, not an older Colt that operate differently.