primer pocket uniformer ?

[rebs]

can this tool make primer pockets enlarged and cause loose primers ? How much brass is removed ?

 

[Unclenick]

There are three types of primer pocket tools: profiling reamers, cleaning tools, and uniformers. The reamers are usually shaped to remove crimps and can widen a pocket if used at an angle or roughly. Cleaners usually look like a screwdriver and just scrape carbon off the bottom of the pocket. Uniformers are depth cutters, but typically have no cutting flutes on their sides. They are end cutters only, so they can't widen a pocket, only deepen in.

 

[RC20]

Keep in mind a major cause of loose pockets is too hot a load and you may not have other indicators of it.

 

[cw308]

I uniform all my primer pockets , only has to be done once . After that if not wet tumbling you can use to clean pockets without widening .

 

[sevt_chevelle]

I bought a Redding uniformer for doing 30-06 cases for my M1. I was amazed at the amount cases that just didn't get squared up but milled out.

 

[RC20]

There are three types of primer pocket tools: profiling reamers, cleaning tools, and uniformers. The reamers are usually shaped to remove crimps and can widen a pocket if used at an angle or roughly. Cleaners usually look like a screwdriver and just scrape carbon off the bottom of the pocket. Uniformers are depth cutters, but typically have no cutting flutes on their sides. They are end cutters only, so they can't widen a pocket, only deepen in.

Do they make one that is both a depth cutter and has a bit of a cutter at the top to clear off the crimp?

It would seem that would align and cut and even a tad off at the top the pocket would be good for 85%.

 

[Grey_Lion]

there's cleaning & uniforming from the outside - and then there's cleaning & deburring the primer hole from the inside, which hasn't been touched here yet so here goes......

I have a lyman deburring hand tool for pistol rounds that I use to remove punch burrs inside the case so that a brass burr will not shield powder from the primer blast and cause excess smoke & residue from unburnt powder.

The Lyman tool is spec-ed for US measurements, so when you hit a European case such as a GECO - it can be tough to clear the primer hole burr with their tool as European spec for some manufactures - again GECO - is metric and a bit smaller. I love GECO pistol brass - good thick stuff - don't see much of it.

Then you hit something like AGUILA pistol brass and find that a good number of their primer holes are not center.... - I won't reload AGUILA brass just because I don't like that they aren't uniform in centering their primer holes......

So there's something to be learned from also checking & working the primer hole from the inside of the case.

As for mil-spec pistol cases with crimped primers which in my experience is mostly winchester WMA, I don't reload it either because I don't really want to resize the primer pocket and I come across plenty of WIN, CBC, and RP brass that needs no such attention - so I have no need.

 

[Gary Wells]

If you are squaring up the bottom of the primer hole with the K&M tool do not use it on nickel cases as the tool will wear quickly and require re-adjustment and the tolerance for the depth of the cutter is extremely critical.

 

[Don Fischer]

I'm not sure the value of reamers in the first place. Started reloading in about 1968 and other than clean a pocket with something like a 7 level screw driver or remove a crimp with a de-burring tool, I've never done anything with primer pocket's other than put new primer's in them!

 

[daboone]

I've use RCBS, Hornady and for the last 6 years Sinclair's uniformers. None of did anything but exactly what they were designed to do. That said I do like the Sinclair's the best as they have stayed sharp and just seem to me faster. I use them on my RCBS case prep station. They all would cut down into the bottom and level it to the ignition hole most of the time. Some case's primer pockets are just to to deep.

 

[Metal god]

Rebs the type I used on those LC-16 cases was a depth uniformer only . I have two different brands of the same types , one is a Lyman which has a fixed depth and cuts them way to deep so I bought another one that was/is adjustable ( Hornady ) I believe I linked you the actual tool in another thread , I'll link again here . I get it set to the right depth then chuck it into a cordless drill . Very similar to how I remove the crimps but the pockets uniform faster .
https://www.amazon.com/Hornady-0412...=8-2&keywords=hornady+primer+pocket+uniformer

Assuming Sinclair's QC is good these might be good
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YHgEqDD_iOU
but after my Lyman experience being a fixed depth tool and cutting them to deep I'm personally hesitant to buy the fixed depth type .