Airman Basic
New member
I swage the military rifle caliber brass, but not the 45s. Never loaded nines. Which calibers really need primer pockets swaged?
Primer pocket swaging always necessary?
- Thread starter Airman Basic
- Start date
Anything with crimped primer pockets. 
I know that sounds like a bit of a flip answer, but it's the truth as just about any caliber can have crimped primers anymore.
NATO 9mm need swaged (most people just throw it out as not worth the time). A lot of the "non-toxic" ammo is crimped as well, I've seen it in 357 SIG and 45 ACP.
I know that sounds like a bit of a flip answer, but it's the truth as just about any caliber can have crimped primers anymore.NATO 9mm need swaged (most people just throw it out as not worth the time). A lot of the "non-toxic" ammo is crimped as well, I've seen it in 357 SIG and 45 ACP.
Airman Basic
New member
Guess that's my point. Never run across military 45 brass that needed it.
cryogenic419
New member
I thought it was only needed for rifle brass with crimped primer pockets. I have never seen crimped pistol brass. Any once fired brass I have had never needed it.
Airman Basic
New member
Whoo, I am behind the times. All my 45 brass is large primer, just barely heard of the small primer stuff, and this is the first time I've heard about the non-toxic, small primer connection. Bet the sp-lp brass plays heck with progressive loaders.
The non toxic priming mixture is more potent than the standard compound, thus the smaller required amount will fit into a small primmer. Also the flash holes are larger and primers are crimped to prevent primers from backing out.
It sure is a pain to sort the brass before loading in a progressive press.
It sure is a pain to sort the brass before loading in a progressive press.
Airman Basic
New member
Yeah, I remember a fad for "squib" loads years ago, with little or no powder for basement gallery type loads, recommended an enlarged primer hole, and had problems with them backing out. Showing my age again. Anyway, why not just use less primer stuff in large primers, and why is the primer hole enlarged? Remember I'm in my 2nd childhood and I'm learning new stuff.
Not a clue as to why they went with large and small though it may have to do with what kind of pop they could get out of primers originally and needed large ones in bigger cases (and probably makes no difference now but its established and causes confusion to change ! - and it does affect loadings in large and small and magnum vs non so upsets a lot of apple carts)
It boils down to if it has a crimped primer then it probably needs to be swagged.
I think the Dillon is the only one that works reliably (from memory, I gave that to my brother as he was doing a lot of 5.56, me I just segregate the 5.56 stuff and don't use it). He had one or two others and the Dillon worked fine.
The one that is in between is the Greek HXP brass. It has 3 small tabs. Most cases the primers go in fine, some not.
For that I just use the motorizes case prep and the inside chamfer station and grind a bit away and takes the tabs off and works fine.
It boils down to if it has a crimped primer then it probably needs to be swagged.
I think the Dillon is the only one that works reliably (from memory, I gave that to my brother as he was doing a lot of 5.56, me I just segregate the 5.56 stuff and don't use it). He had one or two others and the Dillon worked fine.
The one that is in between is the Greek HXP brass. It has 3 small tabs. Most cases the primers go in fine, some not.
For that I just use the motorizes case prep and the inside chamfer station and grind a bit away and takes the tabs off and works fine.