Press Leverage?

[Sport45]

How does the mechanical advantage (leverage) compare between the Lyman Crusher, RCBS Rock Chucker, and Lee Challenger presses. I don't want to start a brand war so please, no need to comment about reliability, longevity, pot metal or anything like that. I have a Challenger and am considering the "upgrade" to a Lyman Or RCBS but will only do it if it means less force required on the handle (over a longer distance, of course) to do the same work.

I also have a Dillon 550b and an old Lyman Spar-T turret. I believe the Challenger is better for rifle cartridges than the Spar-T. I prefer single stage operation for rifle loading and use the Dillon only for handgun.

I'd appreciate it if someone who has used the Challenger as well as one of the others could let me know if they offer significant mechanical advantage.

 

[Unclenick]

I would look at the Lee Classic Cast Press, if you want an O press. It is investment cast from scrap train rails, which are tougher than cast iron. Mine works well. The handle is arranged so you can change its mechanical advantage. Short stroke, lower leverage, long stroke, high leverage. IIRC, Lee was bragging it had the most mechanical advantage in the industry, provided you set the handle out far enough.

For match rifle loading, though, the Forster Co-ax is the main man. More match winners who reload use it than any other press, not counting the benchresters with their arbor presses. I do my sizing and seating operations for match loads on one.

 

[Sevens]

I can't compare the other presses because I haven't used them. I have used a Lee Challenger (older model from the late 80s) and my Lee Classic Cast and I've also loaded on a Rock Chucker.

One thing that the Lee presses do offer is the ability to change where the handle is at. The Rock Chucker cannot do this.

There is a tremendous difference in leverage if you change the spot of the handle so that you are moving straight down where the operation gets tough-- typically, on re-sizing. For me, I like to have the handle down for sizing operations, but I move the handle back up for less physical operations where I enjoy a shorter lever throw.

The handles on Lee preses can be loosened and ratcheted up or down to adjust the angle of the lever. See if that offers you any solution.

 

[jaguarxk120]

Go with the Rock Chucker, very strong, or take a look at the Redding Ultra mag. The way the linkage is setup, has to be one of the strongest made!!

 

[PCJim]

This response may be off base from what you are seeking... Are you looking for a press that would require less exerted force from the operator in order to effect the process involved? If so and if your present press will allow, why not look into obtaining a slightly longer handle? This would greatly enhance the force being applied, thus reducing the effort required by the operator.

 

[WESHOOT2]

what I own

I have an aluminum Challenger; it broke during its first session (so I put it back in its box and stuffed it under a bench).

I already had a XL650 and a Bonanza Co-Ax and a LEE Reloader but I wanted something very heavy-duty for odd operations.
I investigated the RockCrusher, but at that time it only offered two holes for mounting.

So I bought a Lyman Crusher II with its three-hole mounting platform.

I can crush anything in it.



When in doubt buy RCBS.

 

[flashhole]

You would be hard pressed (no pun intended) to find a press with more mechanical advantage than a Redding Ultramag. I have two on the bench. I intend to will them to someone because they will last a lot longer than me on this earth. I do a fair amount of re-forming (larger case to smaller case) and it's not even a challenge with this press. I load 221 Fireball - 7mm Rem Mag and lots of stuff in between ... no problems.

 

[jaguarxk120]

Hey Flashhole nice use for that powder measure shelf mount. I'll have to dig mine out and mount it to the bench.

 

[ClarkEMyers]

Any of them will do for anything you can fit in them. That said...

Any of them will do for anything you can fit in them. That said the Forster Co-Ax as mentioned above is a 180 degree handle swing and my choice for a single stage press in general (bench rest portable presses being a different category).

Notice however that all the high leverage presses use a swinging pivot - as originated more or less with the original Rock Chucker (see also the original Rock Crusher from Old Western Scrounger for 20mm and such and the big A series RCBS and others for maximum effect) so that ram force over the top goes to immense values - a different approach in which there is less leverage for most of the travel and more leverage as the block swings and the ram goes over the top and back down - in fact the travel is normally stopped and few people lean on the handle enough to generate maximum force but that's the reason O presses superseded C presses.

 

[Sport45]

Thank you for all the excellent feedback. I don't want to use a cheater on the handle of my Challenger. I figure the handle is that length for a reason and I don't want to break the thing. That's from plenty of experience breaking quality hand tools with cheater pipes. Besides, I epoxied the wooden ball on the handle a long time ago and don't want to have to take it back off.

Great suggestions on the Lee Classic Cast. I don't know why I didn't think of Lee. I can get a new one delivered to the house for less than I'm seeing the RCBS and Lyman presses sell for used. The toughest thing I'm doing now is resizing milsurp '06 to 7.7jap and any of these should do that with ease.

 

[BigJakeJ1s]

+1 on the Forster Co-Ax for leverage, strength, convenience and accuracy, if it is within your budget. Failing that, the Lee Classic Cast has got to be the best value in a stout reloading press. RCBS, Lyman and Hornady (LNL classic, not AP) presses do not have as good spent primer handling as LCC, co-ax, Redding BBII or UltraMag.

Andy

 

[rwilson452]

I have the Lee classic cast. I bought it because I figured if it was strong enough to do .50BMG it was strong enough to do anything I would be doing. It is. I actually slid the hande down to make a shorter stroke when doing 22-250 and .243. Resizing 30-06 doesn't take any effort at all. One thing, when your mounting to your bench, don't drop it on your foot. That would be rather painful.

 

[rodfac]

If you need a lot of mechanical advantage, you're doing something wrong. Get a tin of Imperial Sizing Wax, dip your fingers and LIGHTLY roll your case between them. Works every time: match M1 Garand loads, .30-06 to .35 Whelen, any full sizing job you can imagine, it works and you don't need a lifter's biceps to do it. Lube 'em up correctly, to include the inside of the necks and you don't need some gargantuan press. I spray a .30 cal bore swab with Midway's spray lube (the only practical use for a spray lube in a bottle neck rifle caliber) and run it up into the necks. You might also consider using a Lyman "M" die to expand your case necks. You'll find you spend a heck of a lot less time trimming if you do. Decaping and sizing in one step, without the neck expansion included, minimizes the stretch factor. Prove it yourself...decap one case manually, then full length resize, then measure it. Now do the same with a die that decaps, resizes, and neck expands all in one step. Bet you find a sizable difference in lengths, not to mention the runout figure. Just my opinion, your results may differ. Regards, Rodfac

 

[Sport45]

I can resize 30-06 with any of my presses. I lube by rolling the case on my old lube pad. Still works fine for me.

Where I need the leverage is when pushing the shoulder of a 30-06 back to 7.7jap length. That takes a little more work and the arthritis in my wrists let me know about it. Even with normal resizing I find I have to "bang" the case into the die one last time for them to drop into my case gauge fully.

Again, thanks for all the good advice.