Polishing Rifle Barrel-DO, or Don't Do?

K

Kawabuggy

New member
I have been considering this for a while and wondered what the positive attributes might be.

I came across this web site that has some good information:
http://www.twincityrodandgun.com/PDF files/Rifle Bore Lapping.pdf

I was wondering if this is something I should try myself. How would one know if the barrel on a particular rifle was already "hand lapped" or polished at the factory? If your barrel was hand lapped at the factory, will polishing it hurt it?

Do you guys think this is something that I should definitely do, or is it just for the bench-resters?

I use my rifles primarily for hunting, and some target shooting. My thoughts were that if it won't HURT anything, than why not go ahead and do it. If I buy all of the stuff necessary to do it, I will do ALL of my rifles so I won't be wasting materials.
 
H

HiBC

New member
In fairness, can't read a PDF so I haven't read the article.
IMO,it is a rare person who can consistently improve the job done by the barrelmaker.
My recomendation is that you do NOT do all your rifles.
If you have a rifle that has a particular problem,sometimes that problem can be helped by firelapping,but I would consider it an"I got nothing to lose" step.
I did have a cheap barrel that metal fouled horribly(30-06) and examination of the bor just inside the muzzle showed a smeared cheeze look on the lands.
I rolled some cast 30-30-lead bullets in some very fine diamond paste used for mold polishing and fired them.This experiment was successful,the barrel shot very well after that.
I also hand lapped a 40 cal BPCR barrel that had loose and tight spots that could be felt pushing a lead slug through the barrel.Another "Value" barrel.It was a lot of work,but it did turn out OK for cast bullets.
A key to polishing is cutting off the high spots without deepening the low spots.This is usually done by changing the direction of the cut,to cross the previous cut.Not possible in a rifled barrel.The slug will cut on the bottom as well as the top of the scratches going down the barrel.
I have read of folks starting as coarse as 240 grit.Seems like a bad idea.
I used 9 micron diamond as my rough.
My point,in conclusion,buy quality and just use it.
 
H

HiBC

New member
One more suggestion,before making any change,carefully detemine:Is there a problem? What is the cause of the problem? Is it likely I can improve it?
Barrel lapping will not improve a bedding problem.Good luck.
 
K

Kawabuggy

New member
No problems with my rifles currently, I was just looking to do whatever necessary to insure that I get the longest life, and best accuracy, out of them.

I figured if there were tool markings, burrs, or the like in the barrel that it could not hurt to smooth them over/out.

In the article that I linked to it recommended using a patch and polishing compound. If I were going to do it, I think I would cast a lead slug in the barrel and use that.

Otherwise, I have been eyeballing the bullets that come coated with fine abrasives. In the end, if that way is faster, and the results are the same, and its safer than hand lapping, I might just load some of those up with the finer grits, and let them fly!
 
H

Horseman

New member
Hand lapping is done on custom barrels BEFORE they are cut to length. This is because lapping makes the ends of the barrel larger inside diameter. This is from starting the lap and accumulations of lapping compound. It is thought to be nearly impossible to lap a bore and maintain consistent diameter at the ends.

Firelapping is only going to decrease barrel life IMO. I wouldn't try either form of lapping unless I had either A; a rusty old milsurp with a sewer pipe bore, or B; an accuracy issue after all else failed and it was so bad I might get rid of it anyway.
 
M

Magnum Wheel Man

New member
to the O.P.

read the last paragraph of page one, of the link you provided... it explains that the lapping is done as a barrel blank, before being cut & chambered for the rifle...

IMO... ( & I agree with the 2nd link posted )... if you have a good quality barrel in the 1st place... your barrel only goes down hill from the 1st shot...

In fact... I try to clean as little as possible... of course there are certain calibers / bullets designs / rifling rates, etc. that are more in need of cleaning, that will lead or copper foul a bore sooner than others... & I like a light coat of penitrating oil or silicone lube in my bore prior to a long range session, as it seems to cut down on fouling... but I've heard that the cleaning rod has wrecked more barrels than shooting... enough so that... I'm very carefull with my bore brushes, rods, & the crown of my muzzle, always trying to clean from the bolt end if possible, & as little as needed...
 
C

CraigC

Moderator
What Gale said about rounding off the edges of the lands echoes in my brain every time I think about "polishing" a bore.
 
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