pillow ticking ?

[rebs]

Have you guys found a real advantage to using pillow ticking for patching round balls ?

 

[JT-AR-MG42]

I've never used anything other than pillow ticking, so I can't
answer for advantages other than to say it is a tight weave that
does not burn through for me.
The heavy coarse thread will (in theory) grip the ball better for imparting spin.
Only the outside of my patches receive any lube.

I'll mention that I always wash and dry the ticking before cutting
my patches to remove any manufacturing residue and to slightly loosen up
the fabric.

Maybe test the relative strength of various patch material with (full power)
loads by putting the muzzle into a cardboard box and firing through it to easily recover your patches for examination.

Not suggesting what is right for you, just my .02, JT

 

[Old Stony]

I've been using some tight weave drapery material for many years since I ended up with a whole bolt of it, but I'm down to the last few yards as I've given so much away to other shooters over the years. Pillow ticking has some definite advantages over other fabrics in a lot of instances.
I've found pillow ticking to work better when using the smaller round balls...like 490's instead of 495's in a .50 caliber. I'm sure others probably have their own ideas on this sort of thing, but this has worked for me.

 

[roashooter]

My experience with "Pillow Ticking"....is to be a generic term...when the actual cloth will vary greatly in thickness. I have found some that is simply too thick for a .530 ball to be rammed down my 66 twist .54 Renegade. As it was pointed out a tight weave is what you are looking for...as well as 100% cotton. I found my perfect "patch cloth"...to be a cotton with a slight fuzzy "nap" on one side and a coarse grain on the other. I settled on using the grainy side to the ball the "nap" to the rifling....with a very lite touch of lard...and of course a cut with the patch knife after starting the ball. Of all the combinations of materials and lubes...this one has given me more one hole ..three shot groups...witnessed by others...at fifty yards...than any other.

 

[Fine Figure of a Man]

The advantage of pillow ticking is that it is tough and can usually be found in the desired thickness.

 

[B.L.E.]

I have also used denim and light canvas with excellent results. Tightly woven and tough cotton cloth is what you want, pillow ticking just happens to be that.

 

[Pahoo]

Historically, it's in the spirit

Have you guys found a real advantage to using pillow ticking for patching round balls ?

As compared to what? Pillow ticking is very practical and good choice for patching. Is it the best? Not by my measure but I always carry a strip of "blue" when I shoot with my group. I put more value in it's historical significance. I also wash mine as I use it as a spit-patch. ......

Most time when selecting components and methods, we stop looking when we find something that works for us. That is, until someone shows us something better and I'm always open to that. ......

Be Safe !!!!

 

[T. O'Heir]

It's just closely-woven cotton cloth. Nothing particularly unusual about the stuff. Originally used because it kept feathers inside pillows but was just the right thickness to use as a BP patch. Think oddly coloured blue jeans worn by pirates and the like.
The advantage of pillow ticking is that it is relatively cheap to buy.

 

[jhenry]

I use real ticking. It mikes out at about 15 to 17 thousandths. Usually closer to the 15 mark. With decent cut rifling at 14 thousandths plus you can run a ball 5 under. 395 in a 40, .495 in a 50. With a button rifled barrel you aren't going to get rifling deeper then maybe 8 thousandths. A shooter is then better off really using a smaller ball by 5 thousandths than using 10 thousandths patching like the commercial pre cut stuff. The ticking is less prone to cut through and burn through. Always check shot patches to diagnose.

 

[Irish Jack]

Cotton Drill pocket liner makes a great fire wall for patching round balls.

 

[jhenry]

Yes it does.

 

[Sure Shot Mc Gee]

Bought T/Cs accessory's for many years. Pre-cut patches & Bore Butter. At the time it seemed like the smart thing to do after reading the rifles Owners Manual.

Accessory's today. I'm all about convenience. Only pre-cut use here since I shoot tight patched ball in my rifles. .445_535_575. Lehigh Valley Patch Lube through the warm months. Tracks: Trapper's Mink Oil in the cold ones.

 

[45 Dragoon]

I could never shoot a consistent group with pre-cuts. I learned at a monthly shoot (back in the 1980's) watching the tack driving old timers load with bulk patch.
I switched and groups not only got consistent, they got much smaller!!! A two-fer!!!

Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
Follow me on Instagram @ goonsgunworks

 

[Hawg]

I could never shoot a consistent group with pre-cuts. I learned at a monthly shoot (back in the 1980's) watching the tack driving old timers load with bulk patch.
I switched and groups not only got consistent, they got much smaller!!! A two-fer!!!

Agreed. I only cut at the muzzle. An off centered patch (for my rifle anyway) is asking for a miss. I use pillow ticking for hunting rounds but they're too hard to load for just plinking.

 

[jhenry]

Short start and cut at the muzzle is the only way to win. I do use a loading block when hunting though. Bore Butter is an OK store bought alternative. Try this and you won't go back. Get the good hard fat from the butcher and render it. Mix by thirds the fat, beeswax and olive oil. I used corn oil once and it was fine so that would save a couple of bucks. It will set up in a tin or whatever and will melt when working it into a roll of ticking. You can add a bit of oil to alter the consistency but go slow because you can't get it back out. Best stuff ever. Fouling will be very manageable and cleaning will be easy. I will post the cleaning recipe.

 

[jhenry]

Cleaning solution. By thirds mix Murphy's Oil Soap, drug store rubbing alcohol and drug store hydrogen peroxide. Keep it in a dark bottle. Cleans black powder residue like magic. Never had it hurt a thing. Clean, dry and run a patch with the lube. All done.

 

[bedbugbilly]

I've used it for years but it all depends on the thickness and which gun i'm shooting. I use it in my 20 gauge Fusil de Chasse smoothbore and it's worked well in some of my rifles, depending on the rifling depth and thickness of the material.

Just remember that when you use any natural fiber material from the fabric store, you need to wash it to remove the sizing in the material - then you're good to go.

 

[maillemaker]

Cleaning solution. By thirds mix Murphy's Oil Soap, drug store rubbing alcohol and drug store hydrogen peroxide.

I use this myself, and will use up what I have and then switch to Balistol completely.

The problem with the "possum piss" recipe is the hydrogen peroxide will damage wood.

Steve

 

[Model12Win]

Lots of "old hands" liked to use "pillah tickin" as it were. Lots of "young hands" today like to as well.

There must be a reason for that. It's tough, resists damages and produces good groups, and isn't so expensive as some options.

 

[jhenry]

I have used that recipe for quite a few years with no damage to the wood on my rifle at all. Of course I have no idea how much you have been slathering over your stock. I tend to clean the fouling out of the bore and off the lock with it.