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PICTURE> Where would you crimp
- Thread starter tonyz
- Start date
DAVID NANCARROW
New member
Can't see the picture, Tonyz
Snuffy
I shoot revolvers. This type of bullet is one of my favorite. I usually shoot barry's WC's or Rainer WC's. They are the same on both ends flat with no cannelure no groves at all. I seat them flush with the case. They give me the most accurate load I have yet to try.I use 3.5Gr of U.Clays under the 148gr WC.
Thanks,
Tony
I shoot revolvers. This type of bullet is one of my favorite. I usually shoot barry's WC's or Rainer WC's. They are the same on both ends flat with no cannelure no groves at all. I seat them flush with the case. They give me the most accurate load I have yet to try.I use 3.5Gr of U.Clays under the 148gr WC.
Thanks,
Tony
Last edited:
I am like the others here. If it would be shot out of my revolvers it is crimped on the front groove. If it will be shot in my S&W Mod. 52 it is going to have to be seated way down in the case where that lil point is flush with the case or seated upside down. That is the only way they will fit in the magazine.
Revolver guy here. I'd crimp this one right at your left-most "crimp" line as indicated in photo. Make the crimp roll right over the bullet radius at that same spot - not into the bullet, but just over/right at it & leave the truncated cone sticking out of the case. 'Course, as mention, you could shoot this one "backwards."
Don't "get" why this one has such a leading profile, as all WCs shoot just fine as a straight cylinder. Nothing the matter with whatever floats a boat, just "curious" is all.
Curious as to what you're paying for these. Speer/Hornady have WC/HBWCs at ~$7/250 - bulk, light-lubed, swagged lead that will shoot the eyes outa flies at 25 yds.
Don't "get" why this one has such a leading profile, as all WCs shoot just fine as a straight cylinder. Nothing the matter with whatever floats a boat, just "curious" is all.
Curious as to what you're paying for these. Speer/Hornady have WC/HBWCs at ~$7/250 - bulk, light-lubed, swagged lead that will shoot the eyes outa flies at 25 yds.
WESHOOT2: That is what I am trying now. yesterday I loaded up both types, crimped at the cannelure and crimped flush with the case.
Then headed to the range. With my Ruger Security Six, 6" Barrel I could not tell any differance. They were pretty darn accurate. Need to work with my powder load.
If I get a chance I will load some backwards and try them today.
Labgrade: This bullets were made by Hardcast Bullet Co. Out of Lancaster,Ca.
There is about .004-.005 of an inch of copper plateing. Also they are cast. Cost is $34.00 per 1000 for copper plated and $26.00 for lead cast.
Thanks All
TonyZ
Keep the advise comming!!
Then headed to the range. With my Ruger Security Six, 6" Barrel I could not tell any differance. They were pretty darn accurate. Need to work with my powder load.
If I get a chance I will load some backwards and try them today.
Labgrade: This bullets were made by Hardcast Bullet Co. Out of Lancaster,Ca.
There is about .004-.005 of an inch of copper plateing. Also they are cast. Cost is $34.00 per 1000 for copper plated and $26.00 for lead cast.
Thanks All
TonyZ
Keep the advise comming!!
The specialist
New member
I never worried about the groove, I just went by OAL, and let that dictate where it is crimped.
Update
I have expermented crimping at all three location mentioned, with the drimp at the Crimp Grove, Crimped with the bullet flush with the case, and loaded backwards flush with the case.
At first I thought that there was no real differance between the bullets crimped at the cannelure and crimped flush with the case. But after loading up some backwards
and rechecking the accuracy of all three differant crimps, There is a differance.The best group I got was with the Crimp at the crimp grove.
Has anyone seen or use this type of mold?
Or know about the bullet type. Why three lube groves a cannelure and a nib on the end?
Thanks,
Tony
I have expermented crimping at all three location mentioned, with the drimp at the Crimp Grove, Crimped with the bullet flush with the case, and loaded backwards flush with the case.
At first I thought that there was no real differance between the bullets crimped at the cannelure and crimped flush with the case. But after loading up some backwards
and rechecking the accuracy of all three differant crimps, There is a differance.The best group I got was with the Crimp at the crimp grove.
Has anyone seen or use this type of mold?
Or know about the bullet type. Why three lube groves a cannelure and a nib on the end?
Thanks,
Tony
frontlander
New member
The difference in weight is probably due to the copper plating. If it were my ammo I would lightly crimp in the crimp groove. Just enough crimp to knock down the belling of the case mouth and allow easy chambering. This is assuming you have the proper case tension on the bullet. I seem to get the best accuracy in my .38s/.357s when I use this method.