Picked up an M1 Garand and looking for some tips

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RampantAndroid

New member
Hi all,

My M14 decided it was a bit lonely and brought an M1 Garand home :p It's got a serial number that looks like it was made in 1954, and all the numbers match/in its original wood stock (P stamp, and eagle with 3 stars) with all of the metal parts looking to be in GREAT condition, and the rifling is also quite good.

The hitch here...is that it is caked with cosmoline. Now, I've never dealt with this before...and while disassembly looks relatively simple, I don't have the tools to deal with the firing pin. My question is pretty much: should I tackle this myself (realize, I tried to tackle the job of putting my M1A into a Sage EBR stock, and failed only because I broke the castle nut pliers) or should I just find a smith that'll do it for me? I'm in no hurry (my optics arrive next week for the M1A, so I have other toys to occupy my time) and can take my time easily.

I've found some guides on doing this, and I think I'm capable given I buy the M10 tool but I wanted some other opinions before I go and potentially mess up on such a beautiful gun.

Thanks!
RA
 
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nate45

New member
Best cleaner to remove cosmoline...

I have the M10 multi tool and have read the instructions for firing pin removal, however, I have never done it. It looks like it might be easier with he CMP tool.

Below is a good illustrated guide to completely stripping the M1.

http://www.garandgear.com/how-to-perform-a-detailed-strip-of-your-m1-garand

If spending a few bucks does not bother you, taking it to a competent gunsmith and letting him do the initial cosmoline cleaning and giving it a full check up sounds like the easiest route.

For example, I'm capable of tearing a small engine(or large even) down and successfully reassembling it, but it sure is easier and less time consuming having a pro do it. Good pros usually always have better tools and more experience than the non-pro.
 
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Bigbuckeye

New member
Either of the combo tools allow for the take down of the bolt.

However, the best solution for removing Cosmo is a hairdryer......and lots of rags.

Heat it up and it melts like ice.
 
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jrothWA

New member
Go to the CMP website..

they have info ther for dealing with take-down.

Remove trigger assembly and action form wood, use "Scott's Liguid Gold" furniture cleaner to clean the wood.

Get a can (not spray) of WD40 and fill small pan 9X9 baking pan and small paint brush to flow over repeatingly to remove cosmoline. strain theou coffee filter to save the WD40.

You'll need to detail everything to remove, inspect and lube prior to firing.

Use a one-piece rod WITH muzzle guide for cleaning bore and PROTECTING the muzzle. [ look at right-side of barrel, just under the edge of the rear hand guard, there will be stampings indicating the drawing number of barrel and the barrel manufactured date: mm/yy.

Use commerically available "white lithium grease, or PTFE grease for anything that SLIDES against something and light oil for pivoting areas.
and LESS in MORE for the M1.

Look at www.jouster.com and the M1/M1a/M14 thread for GOOD info.

Enjoy!
 
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Chris_B

New member
Bear in mind that the numbers on say, the bolt, are not serials. They are drawing numbers, unless somedoy electro-penciled the s/ns. The numbers don't really 'match', although the drawing numbers and receiver may be of the right timeframe and could even be original to each other
 
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1Hobie

New member
My tip to you is to be very careful when loading it. Garands have a reputation for having the bolt try to go into battery with your thumb in the way. It's called M1 thumb. And it hurts a lot. Er...so my buddy says.;):D

Enjoy your classic! I sure do enjoy mine.

Hobie
 
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Chris_B

New member
no need for M1 thumb, ever. Block the oprod with the pinky edge of your righthand, RampantAndroid, as you shove the clip in with your thumb
 
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Achilles11B

New member
Being the intelligent guy that I am, I have thus far avoided getting the M1 thumb...only to introduce the world to the M1 index finger that I 'earned' from cleaning it without paying attention because, after all, I'm such a smart guy and whatnot.

Also, with a 58 year-old rifle, I recommend taking it to a qualified gunsmith to get it eyeballed by a professional before setting off a series of small explosions right next to your face. :D
 
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langenc

New member
You dont need to disassemble the bolt to clean.

If you must just use a small screwdriver to remove that small spring loaded piece. Clean and lube as needed. Drive a goodsized nail in your bench. Cut the head off and Dremel the nail kinda pointy. Use that to suppress the part and it will pop back in. Has beed 50 yrs since I done it but no big deal. Wear glasses so that flying piece dont blind you.

The nail in the bench was called a "field expedient" by the sergeant.
 
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1Hobie

New member
The sad thing about my experience with the "thumb" was that it happened while I had it taken down to the metal, in a gun vise, cleaning and learning about how it is put together. I just reached down and my thumb touched the follower. Bolt comes forward, smashes said thumb between the bolt and chamber entry. I'm facing towards the rear of the gun and had to reach under said mangeled thumb to try and pull the bolt back, whilst in increasing levels of discomfort, tears forming not for joy of learning but like having my aforementioned thumb clamped in a vise. Managed to get the remains of my thumb extracted and went upstairs to repair the after-math. My wife thought it quite humorous. I did not.
This a pic of my sporterised Garand. B-Square offset scope base, Leather cheek pad from CMP, and a muzzle brake. I just received a adjustable gas valve that I'm going to try using some civilian loads through it. I've got a 4 power Burris scope that I use on it but it's on another gun right at the minute.
BTW, the gun can be back to stock config. in an hour.

Enjoy your new gun!

Hobie
 

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Bigbuckeye

New member
I don't think you can really get the "thumb" loading the Garand... If it is going to happen, it is when it is unloaded and you are trying to release the op rod or when you have not fully locked the op rod back all the way.
 
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madcratebuilder

New member
Eezox is the best product I have ever used for removing cosmoline. Amazing cutting power on old dried up cosmo, a small rag and a dozen q-tips well clean the nastiest rifle you can find.

For cleaning the wood I like a 50/50 mix of blo and turpentine. Light scrub with 0000 steel or brass wool. Follow up with a few coats of blo and them some Tom's military gun stock wax.

DSCN0848.jpg
 
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RampantAndroid

New member
So, if I go ahead and clean this myself, is it still advisable to take it to a gunsmith to have it checked out to see if it is safe to fire?

How do I clean the inside of the bolt?

Thanks!
 
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Tim R

New member
Being the intelligent guy that I am, I have thus far avoided getting the M1 thumb...only to introduce the world to the M1 index finger that I 'earned' from cleaning it without paying attention because, after all, I'm such a smart guy and whatnot.
Click to expand...

Achilles, Now that you have made this boast, I would be careful. :)
 
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Chris_B

New member
re: cleaning...get the military Technical Manual. No magic involved. From my own experience, the bolt isn't something that worries me much. If the pin is free and unbroken and the bolt face clean...no worries. Take it out and shake it. Does the pin move freely?
 
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Achilles11B

New member
Tim R, it is difficult to properly relay sarcasm on internet forums. Once the technology to do this becomes available, please re-read my post and feel free to have a laugh at my expense. :D

And yes, Garand thumb (or Garand finger, in my case) is one of those things where you only let it happen to you once, because holy crap it sucks.
 
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RampantAndroid

New member
Figured I'd check back in to say that I tore the thing apart last night and bathed the smaller parts in WD40 - it's easier than I expected. The hardest part will be cleaning the wood, it seems.

Also, the gun is in GREAT condition. Barely any wear on the parts, the firing pin looks like it's not had much wear. It's great! Also, finding some ammo pre-loaded into clips for $.50 a round was great.

Thanks for the advice all!
 
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Flatbush Harry

New member
Rather than WD40, which volatilizes, I'd recommend CLP, which penetrates the pores of the metal and provides lubrication. I'd also recommend you google M1 Garand grease points and use Lubriplate or other appropriate grease on them.

Happy shooting, and watch your thumb.

FH
 
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