I'm needing help finding the age/approximate value/any info on an o/u that was given to me several years ago. It's an o/u 410/22 stevens/savage arms. I can't locate a serial# any where on this gun. The butt is original wood and the stock is synthetic (I'm not sure if this is original or not). Thanks in advance.
Over & Under .410/.22
- Thread starter tBlake08
- Start date
Jim Watson
New member
If it doesn't have a serial number, it was made before the end of 1968 when GCA 68 started requiring serial numbers.
Actually, the synthetic part of the stock is probably the original, the wood a replacement. They made a number of Stevens with Tenite plastic stocks in the first several years after WW II and they were not very strong or durable.
Actually, the synthetic part of the stock is probably the original, the wood a replacement. They made a number of Stevens with Tenite plastic stocks in the first several years after WW II and they were not very strong or durable.
Thank you Mr. Watson (he he, Mr Watson, I feel like I'm talking to myself). I'm not going to preach that no serial # thing as the gospel, but I can't locate it. I'm going to go strip it down and look then I'll post some pics. Keep it comin. I'll have pics up within the hour.
This is just the right side....
The red dot at the right has a 17 stamped on it. I'm not sure if that is a serial or what. The big circle is just where the barrel catches, you couldn't see it in the picture.
I'm using a low quality web cam so thats the best I could do. There is a J stamped under the barrel between where the stock catches and the barrel hooks. It says it's a modle 22-410.
This was my first gun. My dad bought it for me sometime in the early 50's and I stil have it. Both the stock and the fore piece are "plastic" and it has the Model Number of 22-410. Like yours, it has no serial number. At some point it was identified and sold as a "Savage Model 24" and was available in different calibers/gauges. There are several variations offered for sale on the Gunsamaerica site
Saying those "Tenite plastic stocks ... were not very strong or durable" is a whopping understatement. They broke almost at a touch and there are pieces scattered all over the country. That was a problem for Remington when they tried to market the Model 66 with the Nylon plastic stock. A whole different proposition, but people saw "plastic" and ran away in droves.
Plus, that gun with the side selector button was not very durable either; the selectors broke so routinely that when I was an active gunsmith I used to see the damned things in my sleep. We kept 30-40 on hand all the time. The newer model with the selector in the hammer was much better. One caution, don't dry fire that gun; dry-firing will break the selector if nothing else did first.
Jim
Plus, that gun with the side selector button was not very durable either; the selectors broke so routinely that when I was an active gunsmith I used to see the damned things in my sleep. We kept 30-40 on hand all the time. The newer model with the selector in the hammer was much better. One caution, don't dry fire that gun; dry-firing will break the selector if nothing else did first.
Jim
SaltySteve
New member
I have one of those also. Mine has selector on the hammer. It never did eject worth a darn. I love it though.
Stevens Savage .22 - 410 over under
I have a Stevens 22. 410 over under. I was target practicing with both the .22 and .410 when it started misfiring. I noticed a piece of metal that had broken loose that sets between the hammer and firing pins.
What is this piece called and can it be repaired or replaced.
I have a Stevens 22. 410 over under. I was target practicing with both the .22 and .410 when it started misfiring. I noticed a piece of metal that had broken loose that sets between the hammer and firing pins.
What is this piece called and can it be repaired or replaced.
[I noticed a piece of metal that had broken loose that sets between the hammer and firing pins.]
[What is this piece called and can it be repaired or replaced.]
That is the transfer bar section of the selector, and Savage no longer will sell the replacement parts.
In lieu of the replacement parts, however, Savage will sell the upgraded selector - which is the later style hammer with the pivoting nose.
tblake - Your Model 22-410 has no serial number because it was made pre 1968 - actually pre-WWII (production started in 1939), like my Stevens Model 22-410 Tenite version, below.
My OTHER 22/420 is a later (1951) Savage Model 24-B .22/.410.
.
[What is this piece called and can it be repaired or replaced.]
That is the transfer bar section of the selector, and Savage no longer will sell the replacement parts.
In lieu of the replacement parts, however, Savage will sell the upgraded selector - which is the later style hammer with the pivoting nose.
tblake - Your Model 22-410 has no serial number because it was made pre 1968 - actually pre-WWII (production started in 1939), like my Stevens Model 22-410 Tenite version, below.
My OTHER 22/420 is a later (1951) Savage Model 24-B .22/.410.
.
climbhighak
New member
Missing Selector?
I inherited my Dad's guns and this was among the oldest. It is a Stevens Arms 22-410. I live in AK so this gun doesn't get a lot of thought. However this week I have some time off of and want to get out and shoot some rabbits and maybe some Ptarmigan or Spruce Grouse. This seems like the perfect gun for the job.
I pulled it out of storage and can't figure out how to select the .22 cal upper barrel. After a bit of reading in this thread and others I think I am missing a selctor switch. Is that the case?
I inherited my Dad's guns and this was among the oldest. It is a Stevens Arms 22-410. I live in AK so this gun doesn't get a lot of thought. However this week I have some time off of and want to get out and shoot some rabbits and maybe some Ptarmigan or Spruce Grouse. This seems like the perfect gun for the job.
I pulled it out of storage and can't figure out how to select the .22 cal upper barrel. After a bit of reading in this thread and others I think I am missing a selctor switch. Is that the case?
[I think I am missing a selctor switch. Is that the case?]
Yep. - The selector is a long vertical transfer bar that lies between the firing pins/hammer, with a long skinny leg extending downward to that hole in the RH receiver wall, where the metal takes a 90-degree turn into the hole and the inside of the selector slide/button (which is missing from your gun).
The selectors break at the 90-degree turn, so when yours broke, it most likely fell out somewhere, taking the selector button along with it.
tBlake08: - The "J" on the underside of your barrels sounds like the Savage date code for 1958.
The Savage Date Codes were usually circled letters stamped into the barrel bottoms between the hinge and forend iron, started in 1949 (A) and going consecutively until 1970 (X).
.
Yep. - The selector is a long vertical transfer bar that lies between the firing pins/hammer, with a long skinny leg extending downward to that hole in the RH receiver wall, where the metal takes a 90-degree turn into the hole and the inside of the selector slide/button (which is missing from your gun).
The selectors break at the 90-degree turn, so when yours broke, it most likely fell out somewhere, taking the selector button along with it.
tBlake08: - The "J" on the underside of your barrels sounds like the Savage date code for 1958.
The Savage Date Codes were usually circled letters stamped into the barrel bottoms between the hinge and forend iron, started in 1949 (A) and going consecutively until 1970 (X).
.
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These are great little guns and a group of us, wait for a rabbit snow every year, when we take these out on a special hunt. All that we use, are these 24's. Of all the ones I have owned, there has never been one that didn't have a problem of some kind. These are favored by some collectors that have more than one model. You can still find replacement parts but you have to work at it. One of our group, makes some of his own parts.
Be Safe !!!
Be Safe !!!
climbhighak
New member
Missing Selector
Thanks for confirming that. I want to fix this one so I am starting to make calls to the local shops first. Might be back if that doesn't pan out. Does anyone have a photo of the piece I am looking for or of the gun as it is supposed to look like intact?
Thanks for confirming that. I want to fix this one so I am starting to make calls to the local shops first. Might be back if that doesn't pan out. Does anyone have a photo of the piece I am looking for or of the gun as it is supposed to look like intact?
The Ebay item # is a selector buttom only (you need one)
But you also need the selector:
Fortunately, the same seller has both, assembled (above).
The selector assembly number on Ebay is: 390163536810
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=390163536810
The seller has a "buy-it-now" price on the selector assembly, that you are well advised to click on.
.
But you also need the selector:
Fortunately, the same seller has both, assembled (above).
The selector assembly number on Ebay is: 390163536810
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=390163536810
The seller has a "buy-it-now" price on the selector assembly, that you are well advised to click on.
.
Firing pin problem on Stevens 22 & 410
This is my first posting so hope don't screw up. I just inherited my dad's Air Force survival gun. Remember as a kid sneaking it out to shoot with friends. Also remember the 410 firing pin broke. I could still shoot it pointed up in the air but just not when held at level position. Anyone know if it sounds like I need a new firing pin or just a spring? The 22 pin seems to be held in place and has on-going pressure but the 410 pin doesn't seem to have the same pressure on the plate which returns it into place.
Pjoflan
This is my first posting so hope don't screw up. I just inherited my dad's Air Force survival gun. Remember as a kid sneaking it out to shoot with friends. Also remember the 410 firing pin broke. I could still shoot it pointed up in the air but just not when held at level position. Anyone know if it sounds like I need a new firing pin or just a spring? The 22 pin seems to be held in place and has on-going pressure but the 410 pin doesn't seem to have the same pressure on the plate which returns it into place.
Pjoflan