I've got two of them and I like them a lot, but why can't I get my slide stop to insert all the way through often than not. Hey, I'm not that klutzy, trust me. The dang thing goes in but not flush. I'm new to this 1911 religion. Maybe you veterans out there can tell me what the secret is? Is it supposed to be hard? Do I have defective guns? What is it? Flame me if you like but a gun, great as it is, that becomes a nuisance to clean and maintain is a gun that one is not likely to shoot frequently.
OK, what's the secret, 1911-lovers?
- Thread starter longeyes
- Start date
Careful
Careful you don't:
pull the plunger tube off the frame. OR
put an "idiot mark" scratch in the frame just under the slide stop cut.
The trick is, you need to push the slide stop/release UP and IN at the same time. You are probably just pushing it in.
To avoid pulling off the plunger tube when you have to uninstall a bad-installed slide stop, hold your thumb over it tightly and use something to relieve the spring pressure. Pull with your third hand.
I'd tell you how to avoid the idiot mark but two of my three have one too.
It's easy.
Careful you don't:
pull the plunger tube off the frame. OR
put an "idiot mark" scratch in the frame just under the slide stop cut.
The trick is, you need to push the slide stop/release UP and IN at the same time. You are probably just pushing it in.
To avoid pulling off the plunger tube when you have to uninstall a bad-installed slide stop, hold your thumb over it tightly and use something to relieve the spring pressure. Pull with your third hand.
I'd tell you how to avoid the idiot mark but two of my three have one too.
It's easy.
Andrew Wyatt
New member
every single one of my 1911's has the idiot mark on the frame. (except the hard chromed one, but that's because the finish is harder than the slide stop)
sometimes it helps if you use a small screwdriver to lever the detent ball inwards.
sometimes it helps if you use a small screwdriver to lever the detent ball inwards.
All three of my 1911's have the idiot mark. Two came with the marks as they were used guns. The third I bought new and put the mark on it so it wouldn't feel like an outcast
I have learned the trick to re installing the slide stop, but still screw it up occasionally.
The previous owner of my newest old gun must have used a screwdriver to pry it off judging from the gouges around the trigger. He also loosened the plunger enough that it flew off the first time I fired the gun.
Why did I buy it? Because it is a series 70 GC Natl match with a great trigger and otherwise in fantastic shape. Bought it as a project gun so I wouldn't feel guilty about tinkering with a pristine series 70.
I have learned the trick to re installing the slide stop, but still screw it up occasionally.
The previous owner of my newest old gun must have used a screwdriver to pry it off judging from the gouges around the trigger. He also loosened the plunger enough that it flew off the first time I fired the gun.
Why did I buy it? Because it is a series 70 GC Natl match with a great trigger and otherwise in fantastic shape. Bought it as a project gun so I wouldn't feel guilty about tinkering with a pristine series 70.
Idiot mark
Haha, I like that.
My compact 1911 got it's "idot mark" from the counter person when I asked him to show me how to disassemble it since I'd only disassembled them with barrel bushings in the past. No other gun I own is scratched. My full size 1911 is doing just fine.
How great would it be to turn down the sale after telling the guy he just put an "idiot mark" on a brand new gun. Not too big a deal as the gun is stainless and it polishes out fairly well.
Haha, I like that.
My compact 1911 got it's "idot mark" from the counter person when I asked him to show me how to disassemble it since I'd only disassembled them with barrel bushings in the past. No other gun I own is scratched. My full size 1911 is doing just fine.
How great would it be to turn down the sale after telling the guy he just put an "idiot mark" on a brand new gun. Not too big a deal as the gun is stainless and it polishes out fairly well.
cut a couple turns off the spring
I 'idiocized' only my first 45. After that, a friend taught me a trick that allowd me to avoid the 'idiot move'. On all my 1911's, after I brought them home the first time, I stripped them completely and cleaned them thoroughly. Since EVERYTHING is apart, it's easy to find the slide-stop spring (the one that detents against the thumb safety). I cut three AND ONLY three coils from the spring, and reassemble everything.
Most of my 45's have at least 8-9,000 rounds through them without any failures. One is in the 15,000 round range, and the other probably has 25-30,000 rounds without a problem. It's not like I can't feel the thumb safety click. It's still takes quite a firm and positive click to lock/unlock the thumb safeties, but the slide stop reassembles much easier now. I've still got the original spare spring from years ago that I bought in anticipation of having screwed this up, but I haven't needed it yet.
I 'idiocized' only my first 45. After that, a friend taught me a trick that allowd me to avoid the 'idiot move'. On all my 1911's, after I brought them home the first time, I stripped them completely and cleaned them thoroughly. Since EVERYTHING is apart, it's easy to find the slide-stop spring (the one that detents against the thumb safety). I cut three AND ONLY three coils from the spring, and reassemble everything.
Most of my 45's have at least 8-9,000 rounds through them without any failures. One is in the 15,000 round range, and the other probably has 25-30,000 rounds without a problem. It's not like I can't feel the thumb safety click. It's still takes quite a firm and positive click to lock/unlock the thumb safeties, but the slide stop reassembles much easier now. I've still got the original spare spring from years ago that I bought in anticipation of having screwed this up, but I haven't needed it yet.
Is there any harm to be done by shooting a 1911 with the slide-stop not flush but maybe out away from the frame a sixteenth of an inch or so? The rod itself is all the way through the frame and, of course, through the link.
Has anyone developed a surrogate for the standard slidestop that might get around this problem?
Has anyone developed a surrogate for the standard slidestop that might get around this problem?
The secret for me was the plunger tube. My CD got its beauty mark before I worked the little nubbin in the plunger tube with a flat blade screw driver. After depressing the nubbin a few times the slide stop slipped right in. Now I pop it in with the up and in trick mentioned earlier without a second thought.
I'm sure I said a few choice words about the 1911 design before I got the hang of it. Then there was the affair with the recoil spring. Now that was a hoot!
edison
I'm sure I said a few choice words about the 1911 design before I got the hang of it. Then there was the affair with the recoil spring. Now that was a hoot!
edison
Pizzagunner
New member
I use a dremeled guitar pick reshaped into a wedge for the ball detent in the plunger tube. It's idiot-proof. I have about 10 of them in my range bag
For the field, I have covered the blade of the little screwdriver from a SAK Champion in latex so I can reassemble my SA Champion with no fuss.
Most of the time I can do it without the tools. Key is practice and more practice.
For the field, I have covered the blade of the little screwdriver from a SAK Champion in latex so I can reassemble my SA Champion with no fuss.
Most of the time I can do it without the tools. Key is practice and more practice.
Yall arent really serious are you???,.....yall are just too funny......but in the interest of safety maybe this will help......
-with the slide off of the pistol and turned upside down insert the barrel
-put the bushing in the frame, and turn it such that it leaves an opening for the spring
-put the spring in the frame up to the link, dont forget the guide
-while not compressing the spring turn the bushing through the spring(you dont have to do this but it can help) it keeps the spring from moving back and forth
-grasp the frame with whichever hand you prefer, placing the thumb on the spring to keep up in the frame when you turn the slide over, make sure the link is exposed and forward to the spring
-now with the slide upside down grasp your frame in the other hand and guide the frame and slide together
-once the is on the slide if you put the bushing through the spring turn it so the spring can move freely, no tension
-while pulling the slide back look through the hold and you will see the link align with the hole in the frame, it might not be a complete 100%alignment, but most of the hole will align
-now carefully push the slide release in the hole through to the other side, leaving the other end dangling into the trigger guard area
-cock the hammer
-pull the slide back so the disconnect notch is aligned with the square cut in the frame
-now pull the the slide release pin out slightly and rotate up to the notch (notice the beveled edge on the slide release?), and place that edge on the pin and gently push down on the release and it will go in the hole, once the slide release is full inserted
-pull the slide forward and lock the thumb safety
-turn the pistol over and put the end on the spring and insert and turn the bushing to lock in place.....rack the slide and see if anything binds.....
hope I didnt offend anyone, just looking to help.......fubsy.
-with the slide off of the pistol and turned upside down insert the barrel
-put the bushing in the frame, and turn it such that it leaves an opening for the spring
-put the spring in the frame up to the link, dont forget the guide
-while not compressing the spring turn the bushing through the spring(you dont have to do this but it can help) it keeps the spring from moving back and forth
-grasp the frame with whichever hand you prefer, placing the thumb on the spring to keep up in the frame when you turn the slide over, make sure the link is exposed and forward to the spring
-now with the slide upside down grasp your frame in the other hand and guide the frame and slide together
-once the is on the slide if you put the bushing through the spring turn it so the spring can move freely, no tension
-while pulling the slide back look through the hold and you will see the link align with the hole in the frame, it might not be a complete 100%alignment, but most of the hole will align
-now carefully push the slide release in the hole through to the other side, leaving the other end dangling into the trigger guard area
-cock the hammer
-pull the slide back so the disconnect notch is aligned with the square cut in the frame
-now pull the the slide release pin out slightly and rotate up to the notch (notice the beveled edge on the slide release?), and place that edge on the pin and gently push down on the release and it will go in the hole, once the slide release is full inserted
-pull the slide forward and lock the thumb safety
-turn the pistol over and put the end on the spring and insert and turn the bushing to lock in place.....rack the slide and see if anything binds.....
hope I didnt offend anyone, just looking to help.......fubsy.
long eyes,
its dangerous to fire that pistol with that slide release stop not fully seated........that part can and will come out during firing and can if your lucky, just with the spring power launch the slide off of the frame.....Im not sure if it would allow a condition were it would strike the primer of a newly loaded cartridge but I wouldnt chance it. That hole with some manufactuers is not made to specs and those pins walk out........I experienced this many years ago while shooting a trade in for evaluation, it was most disconcerting to be shooting a pistol and suddenly the slide is on the table in front of me and the frame is in my hand.......fubsy.
its dangerous to fire that pistol with that slide release stop not fully seated........that part can and will come out during firing and can if your lucky, just with the spring power launch the slide off of the frame.....Im not sure if it would allow a condition were it would strike the primer of a newly loaded cartridge but I wouldnt chance it. That hole with some manufactuers is not made to specs and those pins walk out........I experienced this many years ago while shooting a trade in for evaluation, it was most disconcerting to be shooting a pistol and suddenly the slide is on the table in front of me and the frame is in my hand.......fubsy.