while ive never shot a shotgun i know that the 12 ga has some pretty harsh recoil...so i was thinking maybe for my first i should go with a 20 ga? is the recoil difference that noticable? or should i just man up and get the 12...and im going to probably get a stoeger side by side uplander
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Newbie to shotguns
- Thread starter epic4444
- Start date
I don't know what your intended uses will be but a 20ga will difinatly recoil significantly less than a 12ga if that is your main concern. The smaller gauge requires more precise shots when hunting due to the decreased shot capacity. You also have less buckshot or slug weight and diameter for defense. I prefer the 12ga for both uses the recoil is more than a 20ga but is not to bad with a good pad and a good tight hold to the shoulder.
Last edited:
Smitty in CT
New member
Recoil has NOTHING to do with whether the gun is a 12GA or a 20GA.
There are several factors that produce recoil:
Take a 12GA or 20GA and if you use a 1 ounce load @ 1200 fps and the same weight of powder.
A 7.5 pound 12GA will acually have LESS recoil than a 7.0 pound 20GA.
The main thing to consider is what the gun's intended use will be. If you are looking to shoot skeet then a 20 GA will work fine. If you plan on hunting Duck or Geese, then a 20 GA will not allow you to shoot as powerful a payload as are available to the 12GA.
If you get the Uplander, start off with some light 7/8 oz "target" loads and gradually work up to the more powerful loads, the main thing you want to do is enjoy the sport, going out the first day with 3" magnum turkey loads isn't going to make for a pleasant experience that you are going to want to do every weekend.
Sorry for the ramble.......(and the science lesson)
There are several factors that produce recoil:
chuckhawks.com [url said:http://www.chuckhawks.com/shotgun_recoil_table.htm[/url]
Wb = Mass of the load (Shot + wad) (in grains)
MV = Velocity of the load (usually in feet per second)
Wp = The weight of the powder (usually in grains)
Wr = The weight of the gun. (in lbs.)
E = Recoil energy in FT LBS
E = 1/2 (Wr / 32) (Wb x MV + 4700 x Wp / 7000 x Wr)squared
Take a 12GA or 20GA and if you use a 1 ounce load @ 1200 fps and the same weight of powder.
A 7.5 pound 12GA will acually have LESS recoil than a 7.0 pound 20GA.
The main thing to consider is what the gun's intended use will be. If you are looking to shoot skeet then a 20 GA will work fine. If you plan on hunting Duck or Geese, then a 20 GA will not allow you to shoot as powerful a payload as are available to the 12GA.
If you get the Uplander, start off with some light 7/8 oz "target" loads and gradually work up to the more powerful loads, the main thing you want to do is enjoy the sport, going out the first day with 3" magnum turkey loads isn't going to make for a pleasant experience that you are going to want to do every weekend.
Sorry for the ramble.......(and the science lesson)
In the real world where do you find this even 12ga light target loads have 1 1/8oz vs 7/8oz in a 20ga. I'm guessing the man doesn'nt have a reloading machine since he doesn'nt own a shotgun. So in most all real world scenarios a 20ga will recoil less than a 12ga.Take a 12GA or 20GA and if you use a 1 ounce load @ 1200 fps and the same weight of powder.
Yes indeed a 20ga will work fine but, it requires a higher skill level than a 12ga given the reduced volume of shot.If you are looking to shoot skeet then a 20 GA will work fine.
True but with duck or geese loads a 20ga will kill them just as dead as a 12ga it just requires more precise shot placement.If you plan on hunting Duck or Geese, then a 20 GA will not allow you to shoot as powerful a payload as are available to the 12GA.
I should have added the following statement in my first post-MOST grown men in good health can handle the recoil of 12ga unless they are overly sensitive to mild pain.
cloudcroft
New member
There's two kinds of recoil:
1. Real recoil (objective).
2. Perceived recoil (subjective).
Yes, the first is pure science and is the same for any given gun/ammo used, but the second is all over the map due to each person's perception of a given gun's recoil. Some small people handle recoil fine, some big guys are bothered by it. You never know.
In the real world -- and science aside -- shooting a 12-guage and then a 20-guage, the 20 is easier on you. A 410-bore would be even more so than a 12.
I'm not sure for what purpose (mission) the OP wants a shotgun but if he is concerened about recol, there are ways to reduce it he can apply to a 12 if that's what he wants.
I would go ahead and get the 12 (or shoot someone else's), try it to see how he perceives the recoil, and if it's a bit harsh for him, try assorted recoil-taming techniques such as different ammo, a recoil-reducing stock, add weight to the stock, shooting position, etc..
EDIT: For current example, see this guy's post:
http://www.thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=255073
There's certainly nothing wrong with a 20-guage, but if the end goal is a 12, he may as well get a 12 right up front.
-- John D.
1. Real recoil (objective).
2. Perceived recoil (subjective).
Yes, the first is pure science and is the same for any given gun/ammo used, but the second is all over the map due to each person's perception of a given gun's recoil. Some small people handle recoil fine, some big guys are bothered by it. You never know.
In the real world -- and science aside -- shooting a 12-guage and then a 20-guage, the 20 is easier on you. A 410-bore would be even more so than a 12.
I'm not sure for what purpose (mission) the OP wants a shotgun but if he is concerened about recol, there are ways to reduce it he can apply to a 12 if that's what he wants.
I would go ahead and get the 12 (or shoot someone else's), try it to see how he perceives the recoil, and if it's a bit harsh for him, try assorted recoil-taming techniques such as different ammo, a recoil-reducing stock, add weight to the stock, shooting position, etc..
EDIT: For current example, see this guy's post:
http://www.thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=255073
There's certainly nothing wrong with a 20-guage, but if the end goal is a 12, he may as well get a 12 right up front.
-- John D.
Nate, when I lack time to reload my own 7/8 oz loads, I oft opt for the Remington Gun Club 1 oz load.
!2 gauge 7/8 oz loads are now made by Remington,Winchester, Fiocchi, Kent, Rio, Kemen, Gamerbore, Wolf and others.....
A 7/8 oz load from a standard weight 12 gauge of 7 lbs or so defines the term, "Creampuff" but still breaks clays nicely.
Modern ammo with hard shot, plastic one piece wads with shotcup and progressive powders is so much more efficient that many 7/8 oz loads put more pellets into that 30" pattern we want than 1960s style 1 1/8 oz loads,
But don't take my word for it. Invest in a couple boxes and learn where comfort and effect live together....
!2 gauge 7/8 oz loads are now made by Remington,Winchester, Fiocchi, Kent, Rio, Kemen, Gamerbore, Wolf and others.....
A 7/8 oz load from a standard weight 12 gauge of 7 lbs or so defines the term, "Creampuff" but still breaks clays nicely.
Modern ammo with hard shot, plastic one piece wads with shotcup and progressive powders is so much more efficient that many 7/8 oz loads put more pellets into that 30" pattern we want than 1960s style 1 1/8 oz loads,
But don't take my word for it. Invest in a couple boxes and learn where comfort and effect live together....
Fat White Boy
New member
Try going to a sporting clays range or skeet or trap range and renting different types of shotguns. I think you will find the auto-loaders have a lot less recoil than you think.
gunnut762nato
New member
12 is the way to go, at first you; just have to get over the stigma of the percieved shotgun kick, like any big gun, the first time it hurts but before you know it, you can fire it with one hand blind folded and the recoil isn' t bad
later as you get better 20s can be fun because they are more difficult to put down game with
later as you get better 20s can be fun because they are more difficult to put down game with
Full-choke
New member
Okay, without seeing too much into what actually causes recoil, the 12 Uplander is going to kick pretty good. I shoot some pretty big bore rifles and I have both a Stoeger Condor 20 and a Franchi I-12. I have shot 870 Express, Browning Gold, and Rem 1100 (both 12 and 20).
Based on use, the Uplander would be perfect for its namesake; Upland hunting. The Condor is pretty much the same way. They kick pretty good because they are a lighter weight, lighter built gun. Plus they are crack-open actions, something that will make them kick a little harder. On autoloaders like the Browning Gold and the 1100s, I find them to be less but not enough to matter. I have yet to shoot an inertia driven autoloader since my I-12 is not in. So, I really can't say on that.
The Uplander is a fine gun, 12 or 20 would work just fine. If you opt for a 12, go with some lighter factory loads to start out and that will get you use to it. If you go for the 20, do the same but work yourself up to something like some 3" magnum loads, that would give you the feel of what the 12 would be like. I have shot 3" 20's out of my Condor and felt like it recoiled less then the 870 I have shot. So I would work based on those principles.
Based on use, the Uplander would be perfect for its namesake; Upland hunting. The Condor is pretty much the same way. They kick pretty good because they are a lighter weight, lighter built gun. Plus they are crack-open actions, something that will make them kick a little harder. On autoloaders like the Browning Gold and the 1100s, I find them to be less but not enough to matter. I have yet to shoot an inertia driven autoloader since my I-12 is not in. So, I really can't say on that.
The Uplander is a fine gun, 12 or 20 would work just fine. If you opt for a 12, go with some lighter factory loads to start out and that will get you use to it. If you go for the 20, do the same but work yourself up to something like some 3" magnum loads, that would give you the feel of what the 12 would be like. I have shot 3" 20's out of my Condor and felt like it recoiled less then the 870 I have shot. So I would work based on those principles.
Birdville2011
New member
Just get a 12, you'll get used to it, but if you shoot a 20 for too long, it'll be hard to go to a 12, which are easier to kill with
the recoil on a 12 gague is not bad all all. any bird load doesnt irritate me at all, unless if you get something like a 3.5" magnum turkey load... but hey, how many of those do you have to shoot to killa turkey? Honestly, get a 12 gague, im not sure if you have shot one in real life i think you may be watching too many action movies.
i really reccomend the ruger red label. you really cant go wrong with an over/under and they look so much cooler.
i really reccomend the ruger red label. you really cant go wrong with an over/under and they look so much cooler.
DWARREN123
New member
Even in 12ga the big difference is between a single shot/pump action and a semi auto. The semi will usually have less felt recoil. This goes for for all gauges.
If you are worried about recoil and are looking for shotgun that is of good quality and value. I would recommend the Beretta 3901 12 gauge w/28" barrel. I own one and the gas recoil system is not punishing. But when you go from target to game loads the recoil does increase slightly. A normal day trap and skeet shooting, I will shoot at least 100 shells and have never had a malfunction or a sore shoulder. There a few models to choose from. Good Luck!!!