New to reloading. Quick questions about .357 mag.

[Micahweeks]

Hey, guys. I read the sticky and think I mostly understand how to get started with the equipment. I've never done this before, so I'm comletely green, but some YouTube videos and the sticky make it seem relatively easy to pick up. I think I can handle it. I haven't made any decision on specific make/model of equipment, yet, but I want to know first about the type of rounds I want to load.

These days, I mostly shoot .357 mag. It's my go to hog/whitetail/garden varmint round, and for hunting I've almost always shot 158 grain lead hollow points or my .308 for larger game at longer range. I like the way the 158 grains shoot, and I don't have a problem knocking down what I'm shooting at. So, this is what I want to start reloading if I go through with this. Is there anything specific to reloading this type of round I should know? Brass type? Bullet type (have no idea on where to even look for bullets like this)? Primers (again, don't know much about these, either)?

Thanks ahead of time for your answers!

 

[Shootest]

The 158g bullet is mostly the standard for 357mag, nothing special about it at all. Lots of places to buy just Google it. I like/recommend CCI or Winchester primers. Remington have always been good also, just cost to much more lately. I use a lot of Starline brass but any once fired will work.
GOOD LUCK

 

[1stmar]

There is nothing uniquely different about 158gr bullets. Lots of makers for both lead bullets and jacketed. Good source for a variety of reloading supplies is midwayusa. You can browse by caliber and see the manufacturers and costs. Then start to look for the most economical supplier. Brass/primers are common, you'll need small pistol primers (magnum). Lots of makers of brass, starline, Winchester, Remington etc. any will work fine. Get a reloading manual before you buy any components and read it and select the loading components accordingly.

 

[Micahweeks]

you'll need small pistol primers (magnum).

Some people talk about revolvers with reduced weight springs not igniting "hard" primers. Is there some way to know what a hard or "not hard" (???) primer is? Or, since my guns are mostly stock, does that even matter?

 

[Shootest]

Since your guns are stock it doesn’t mater at all, only for modified spring. It is generally accepted that CCIs are hardest followed by Win, then Rem, and Federal the softest. Just because the caliber is 357Mag does not mean you need a Magnum primer. Data from a manual will indicate if a mag primer is required.

 

[1stmar]

It won't matter unless you've done some crazy trigger job that has significantly reduced the hammer spring. Several years ago Winchester magnum and non magnum primers were the same.

 

[Micahweeks]

Ok. So, I think I've got this figured out. I see on Midway packs of .357 brass and the type of lead hollow points I'm used to shooting. I also see the magnum primers. I see the dies for .357 and all the other stuff in the sticky. So, what about powder? The site says those 158 grain bullets are rated for something like 1800 fps. I've never shot ANYTHING that hot out of a revolver. I think around 1200-1400 is what I would normally hunt with. The Universal powder is listed as an "all around" powder. Will it make my .357 158 gr LHP hunting rounds without blowing up my GP100, or do I need a different powder?

 

[1stmar]

Universal clays will work as well as many others, ww296 etc. A load manual will tell where to start and how to watch for pressure signs so don't blow anything up. You'll need to work up to maximum loads (assuming that's what you want) as every gun is different and pressure will vary with components. This site is fantastic, great resource of information. However I still suggest your first investment is a reloading manual with the process of reloading spelled out in the proper order. Poking around here and trying to cobble information together is risky. A manual will lay out for you, then you can come here and get more detail and specifics.

 

[ligonierbill]

Lots of good powders available for the .357. Since you're hunting and looking for a stout load, try H110. You should use a magnum primer (e.g. CCI 550) with that. Accurate #9 has worked for me also. If the weather holds, I will test some 158's over Alliant 300-MP. A lot of discussion on this powder, so I won't know till I shoot 'em whether or not it lives up to the advertising.

Regarding lead: I don't know what you're shooting, but make sure you are using "hard cast", not swaged, at high velocity. Soft lead will foul your barrel. Many folks use a flat nose profile and there are a bunch of companies selling them. BTW, I am also testing some 180 LFN.

 

[Gadawg88]

I agree that a manual is the best first step. Alliant 2400 is one of the most popular powders for full power .357 mag.

 

[WESHOOT2]

For not blowing up your GP100 (I own two) might I suggest:

-N350
-2400
-AA9
-N110
-W296
-H110

Use new sized cases only for MAXIMUM loads.
Use appropriate primer based on specific data.
Use the superior Redding Profile Crimp Die for a very firm crimp.

Deer respond well to a 158g XTP-HP, or the conventional Remington 180g S-JHP.

 

[Colorado Redneck]

As others have suggested---get a good modern load manual or two. Or three. Read them. Then go with the load data contained in them.

Before you order components, you need to do this reading. If you go out and just buy some stuff randomly, you might not have the components recommended by any of the load books.

.357 Mag is a good round to start reloading with. You will find that mistakes are easy to make, and will be unexpected.

 

[colbad]

I think the most important part is finding a good power charge that when at your specs fill the case (or at least makes a double charge obvious). The last thing you want is a double charge.

 

[skizzums]

i have recently started reloading 357, nothing diffcult or unusual about it, the only difficulty i have is that some need a heavy crimp, and im too lazy to trim brass, so i a having to adjust the crimp die ALOT

 

[Micahweeks]

Thanks a ton, guys.

Before you order components, you need to do this reading. If you go out and just buy some stuff randomly, you might not have the components recommended by any of the load books.

Agreed. I already have the Speer, Hornady, and Lyman books on order. They should have shipped today. I'll be reading them through first before I order anything, and I'll be doing a lot more research. I "think" I will eventually go with a Lee turret press, but I'm not entirely sure. I mainly wanted to know if my favorite round was possible to make at home, and it sounds like it is. So, I'll read the books and see what all they have to say about it.

 

[buck460XVR]

The .357 is a very easy cartridge to load for. Components a generally readily available and the variety of powder/bullet combos is as great as any cartridge out there. Because of this, there is a ton of load recipes to go with them. I generally suggest new reloaders start with jacketed bullets first as they are easier to have good success with early on. They are a tad more forgiving on crimp and one does not have to worry about leading at magnum velocities when the barrel/throats have not been slugged for proper bullet fit. Slower powders that fill the case more fully help also. Powders like H110/W296 have narrow parameters, but you cannot get enough of it in a .357 case under a 158 bullet to hurt a modern revolver. One needs to be aware tho, of not going below starting load recipes with them, for fear of a squib. IMR4227 fills the case also, but has a wider parameter of uses. H110/W296 requires magnum primers, IMR 4227 can use either. As can 2400, which is also a very good powder for .357. Those powders work well for both jacketed and hardcast bullets in the 150-160 gr range. There are others also. Be aware that some manufacturers Hornady/Speer sell a swaged lead bullet that is softer than hardcast and meant for velocities of 1000 fps or less.

 

[GP100man]

Universal Clays & 2400 will cover `bout what the 357 was meant to be used for ! Universal for mid loadings & 2400 for all the rest.

Read & research advise is always good & for starting out a good solid single stage press, you`ll always find a use for it !

Skizzums touched on 1 very important brass prep for straight walled revolver rounds , TRIMMING !!!

The standard seater/crimper has a roll crimp capability built into the die(this is all I use since I only shoot lead)& close tolerences on case length mean consistent crimps which in turn makes more consistent ammo !!!

Addition : Factory crimp & taper crimpers, I recommend you not use these with lead bullets ,As you use these they also resize your lead bullets, the softer they are the more affect these dies will have & affect foulin which inturn affects accuracy.

If there`s any question just pull a seated bullet & see if it`ll fall thru the cyl .(they should have to use a good amount of thumb pressure or not go thru at all.) Just for reference my bores on my GPs are all between .358-.3585 1 has a slight thread choke & my cyl throats are reamed or polished to .3585.

So when ordering bullets opt. for .358 when possible!

I cast my lead bullets & I like a good RNFP or a good SWC in the 170-190 gr. going 1K+ fps these 2 will handle `bout anything that needs shooting, exceptions are the largest of big game animals.

I did put this bullet thru a 200# sows forehead & out between her front legs.
The plain based 1 running very close to 1200fps.

 

[ligonierbill]

Just to follow up, I did get to shoot this weekend, and unfortunately my 300-MP was a total bust. I actually think I got a bad can, and I have sent a note to Alliant. On a better note, I shot some 180 Cast Performance over fairly warm loads of H110. I had been running 13.6 gr H110 for 1,041 avg, and STD of 7.9. That's great consistency for a revolver, but I wanted another 100 fps. Sure enough, I got it, although my STD ran 14.3. Still not bad. Cases fell right out of the cylinder (GP-100 4"). Won't load a lot of these, and I think I'll take the 1,040 if I do.

 

[coldbeer]

What was the problem with the PP 300-MP? Yesterday I shot some 30 carbine rounds loaded with 14.5-15 grains of PP 300-MP and another batch loaded with 14.5-15 grains of W296. The rounds loaded with PP 300-MP were consistently more accurate than those loaded with W296. I haven't tried it in 357 Magnum yet, but I think it's going to be a very good powder for Magnum handgun cartridges.

 

[ligonierbill]

I contacted Alliant, and they suggest LTA crimp. Not sure about that, as it has never been a problem in many years of loading (and not a problem with AA#9 and H110 in the same gun on the same day). However, I will give it a try and really check the crimps on the next batch. BTW, Alliant's comment on the G&A article stating 300-MP and H110 are the same powder is that it ain't so. I will load a few more next week and see how I do.