I want to get into reloading for my .308 rifle, and to that end I just picked up a Lee single stage press on eBay. My budget for this operation is tiny, so bear in mind I'm doing this on a shoestring. I know I need to pick up a set of dies for .308, as well as powder, primers, and bullets. With the press, and a good set of dies, and the old Lyman reloading book I've already got, will I be able to puzzle everything out?
New to reloading: checking my assumptions.
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rwilson452
New member
Read the book there are many things you will need. There is a sticky for this forum read that. You will need a scale, calipers, something to prime your cases and other stuff before you load your first cartridge. Start by reading the manual.
You really should get at least one more manual.
You really should get at least one more manual.
First off, you will need a very sturdy base to affix that press to. There is quite a bit of force exerted by a press.
Some type of case lube will be required so that you don't end up with a stuck case inside the die on your first pull of the press handle. You could skimp by with using an oil on the case exterior, but be sure you don't get it inside the case itself. Eventually you will want to get proper lube.
The scale (strongly suggest a beam scale) and calipers (electronic from Harbor Freight is a good investment) are a must, from the start. You must be certain of both the powder charge as well as the COL of the finished round. Even if using a cannelured bullet, you need to know your finished COL.
A case trimmer (and appropriate holders depending upon the type) may not be required right away, if your case length is within the maximum specification. If you are using once fired brass from your weapon, you will probably be ok for your first reloading. If your cases need to be trimmed, you will also need to chamfer and deburr the case mouth after trimming. Tools are available to do this, but on a tight budget this "can" be done with a dull pocket knife.
Primer pockets can be cleaned with a small screwdriver, but again the proper tool is available when the budget allows. There is also the possibility that the primers in your cases are crimped in. If so, you will need to either swage or ream the pocket after depriming. Reaming "can" be done with a pocket knife, but is much better suited to the proper tool. I personally would not attempt this with a pocket knife although I have heard of people doing so.
This should let you get started on a tight budget. Invest in the proper tools as funds become available - the right tool makes the work much easier and the finished product that much better.
Oh, and welcome to reloading.
Some type of case lube will be required so that you don't end up with a stuck case inside the die on your first pull of the press handle. You could skimp by with using an oil on the case exterior, but be sure you don't get it inside the case itself. Eventually you will want to get proper lube.
The scale (strongly suggest a beam scale) and calipers (electronic from Harbor Freight is a good investment) are a must, from the start. You must be certain of both the powder charge as well as the COL of the finished round. Even if using a cannelured bullet, you need to know your finished COL.
A case trimmer (and appropriate holders depending upon the type) may not be required right away, if your case length is within the maximum specification. If you are using once fired brass from your weapon, you will probably be ok for your first reloading. If your cases need to be trimmed, you will also need to chamfer and deburr the case mouth after trimming. Tools are available to do this, but on a tight budget this "can" be done with a dull pocket knife.
Primer pockets can be cleaned with a small screwdriver, but again the proper tool is available when the budget allows. There is also the possibility that the primers in your cases are crimped in. If so, you will need to either swage or ream the pocket after depriming. Reaming "can" be done with a pocket knife, but is much better suited to the proper tool. I personally would not attempt this with a pocket knife although I have heard of people doing so.
This should let you get started on a tight budget. Invest in the proper tools as funds become available - the right tool makes the work much easier and the finished product that much better.
Oh, and welcome to reloading.
Look here.
http://www.thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=382042
Scroll down a bit and you will see a photo of handloading tools. Maybe it will answer a few questions.
http://www.thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=382042
Scroll down a bit and you will see a photo of handloading tools. Maybe it will answer a few questions.
gearheadpyro
New member
My .02 http://www.rifles-shooting-reloading.com/reloading-equipment.html. Might help you out.
chris in va
New member
I bought just about everything either on sale or used. Found an old, original Redding beam scale on Ebay for $25, works great. Electronic calipers, $12. Dies were on sale at Midway.
Yes, I know. Digital scales are very costly, and he is on a tight budget. As for the calipers, I started on a RCBS plastic dial caliper - it did the job and I still have it. However, considering the almost equal cost today of the digital calipers which provide finer readings, I just can't recommend investing in the dial type.
As a pseudo machinist being used to using calipers on a daily basis, I would actually recommend getting a dial caliper over a digital one. I realize that for truly accurate work one should probably use a large micrometer, but there is something to be said for a dial caliper. Subtle differences with hand eye coordination can allow for some amazing accuracy if one cares about splitting thousandths of an inch...and I'm speaking about the ±0.0005" range. Electronic calipers are not particularly obvious when you are truly close to a number you are specifically trying to get a bullet seated to or are trying to distinguish which bullets might be ever so slightly bigger. If one rolls a bullet in the caliper, it is also easy to visually see if a bullet is slightly out of round in any one direction.
It is possible to see a half thousandth on a dial caliper....
My two cents worth...
It is possible to see a half thousandth on a dial caliper....
My two cents worth...