new pistol: RIA GI 1911a1.....10MM!

bamaranger

New member
As the title states, bought this pistol about a month ago from our local Rural King. Sticker price $409.00.....out the door for less than $450. I had two identical pistols in my hands last year at this time, (same price) but did not buy. When this one surfaced, I did not hesitate. Sure, I'd rather had a Ronin, a Ruger, or a Kimber, but I have not seen one in the flesh yet, and the price was to hard to resist. The sticker price was $50 LESS than the asking price for the .45acp models. I couldn't pass it up. We'll see about it's durability and reliability. Interestingly, I have not seen a RIA 10mm configured in this manner (pure GI 1911a1) anywhere else but Rural King Guns. RiA offers other 10mm models that have enhanced features, but the asking price is usually in excess of $600.

The pistol has some interesting features: a fully ramped barrel and one piece recoil spring /guide rod assembly. Correspondingly, the barrel is of heavy bull or coned configuration. The slide lock lever has a detent on the face to negate bouncing up to false lock in recoil, a nice "tuned" feature I have not seen over the counter even on "name" guns. The trigger pull is acceptable.

Sights are typical 1911a1.....tough on 60yr+ eyes. With my spectacles and ample time for alignment, I can puncture milk jugs at 25 yds reliably, but I most likely will put a better set of retro sights on it in the near future. If I were 30 yrs old again, I probably wouldn't bother. The gun shoots exactly to POA with the GI sights, I almost hate to change them.

The gun shipped with one mag, I'd wager it was made by Metalform. I've since purchased a Ruger mag, and it appears near identical, albeit in stainless. I have also experimented with using Wilson and Metalform .45acp
mags. I've not shot the gun enough to make a declaration on reliability or durability, only about 60 rds. I've experienced two premature slide locks, which I'm currently attributing to the bullet nose striking the lug on the slide lock lever as it feeds up ( a common 1911 quirk). I've relieved that lug a bit, we'll see. There goes my warranty. If the prelocks continue, I may deepen the detent on the slide lock lever a wee bit, but am reluctant to do so at present till I see how the mod to the lock lever effects things. I might switch to some SWC projectiles as well, if they feed, SWC's have reduced prelocks in my .45acp guns.

I've also fitted a square bottom firing pin stop plate. Ejection was, well, ....intercontinental........empties landing 30 ft away. The flat plate has reduced slide velocity and ejection is now a bit calmer, but still enthusiastic. The gun shoots much softer now as well, and feels much like a .45acp.

All said, at this early point, I'm pleased with the gun. I'm not surprised at having to tweak it, every 1911 in my past, (except Grandad's genuine 1911 c. 1917 .....don't fret, long retired) has needed tweaked to run correctly. I don't foresee putting an extremely high round count on the gun, no competition in it's future, and I don't shoot 10mm as a plinker. When I resolve the prelocks, I may try to take a whitetail with it (think bow range).

I'll keep ya posted.
 

Jim Watson

New member
There is a guy on another board who bought a bare bones RIA .38 to get something to tinker with. He says it is so sound that he sees little to work on.

You could put in a stouter recoil spring, but the limit to that is that a heavier recoil spring slows the recoil, it also slams the gun shut harder in counter-recoil. I'd go a while with the firing pin stop.
By the way, there is a fresh firing pin spring in my billfold as T.J. says you need.
 

bamaranger

New member
springs

Oh! You've heard about that!!!!!!!!!!!!:) Yup, new Wolf springs (3 pk) enroute. less than $10 .

Yes folks, bamaranger, has launched his firing pin (and spring) TWICE across his den into the deepest and darkest corners while fitting the FP stop plate.
Found the pin (twice) springs MIA and not expected to be located. Pulled a spring from another pistol to keep the RIA project underway.

I don't do the "armorers crawl" as well as I used to. :)
 

bamaranger

New member
more on springs

Reread your post, you were offering one.....what a pal!;)


T.J. suggested heavier recoil spring. I am holding off as you suggested, two reasons:

-not sure how the RIA one piece recoil spring and rod comes apart, if at all. Seems fixed to me.....and plenty stout/stiff as is poundage wise

-don't want the slide to be out running the mag spring lifting ctgs to feed, might cause more problems than solving any

If you haven't heard, bamawife covid variant pos, we're on quarantine.
 

Jim Watson

New member
Yes, Mernie said so.

RIA parts diagram shows dual springs on a full length guide rod, nothing to show they are captive on the rod. We might have to take it apart on the table at Jack's.
 
Why??? Would you install a heavier recoil spring. My RIA 10mm runs fine with factory parts. Lots guns go south when you start second guessing the engineers spec and go to changing parts.
 

bamaranger

New member
springs

Installing a heavier recoil spring in the 1911 series is a pretty common practice, the intent being to reduce perceived recoil from high slide velocity rearward and also to reduce frame battering. Seems I read some where that once upon a time, Colt Gold Cups shipped with two recoil springs , one for hardball and another for mild target loads.

As noted in my OP, ejection in this RIA 10mm is
 

bamaranger

New member
oops

Sorry, new laptop, tiny keyboard, wrong keystrike.....to continue....

...... is VIOLENT, launching spent cases into orbit, indicative of very high slide velocity. Recoil was sharp as well. To lessen slide velocity and reduce battering and recoil, a heavier recoil spring is often installed. In the 10mm one also runs into what is known as premature unlocking, which may effect velocity as well as wear and tear It is pretty common to upspring 10mm pistols, including Glocks.

I don't want to go that route, as it may indeed create other problems, the slide outrunning the magazine as described, and I hear conversation regards trigger mechanism battering also ( in 1911's). What I did do is install a flat bottom firing pin stop plate. The square plate bears upon the hammer at at a lower point, increasing the amount of force required to cock the hammer during recoil. The extra force used to cock the hammer, robs the slide of velocity, hence reducing wear and felt recoil. Theoretically, it should enhance feeding also, slowing the slide and allowing the mag to place a cartridge "up" for feeding.

Interestingly, the 1911 as originally designed had a FPS plate with less of a radius than what we see today. During US Army trials, complaints were made that the pistol was too difficult to cock from "Condition 3". JM Browning addressed this by increasing the radius on the plate to what we know today. My new plate harkens back to the old design!!!
 

DaleA

New member
You've got this one figured out now but for other folk if you suspect there's going to be parts-a-flying when you're disassembling something a tip I remember reading about on this very site is to put the firearm in a plastic bag with the ends cut out just enough to allow you to put your arms in and work on it that way.

Somewhat similar to a "changing bag" used by photographers in the olden film days except of course they had to use something opaque.

Good luck. I'd be interested in how your 1911 stands up to the 10mm cartridge.
 

RickB

New member
Adding a couple/few pounds to the mainspring is much more of a functional free lunch than a heavier recoil spring.
 

Geezerbiker

New member
It probably wouldn't hurt to add one of those Wilson rubber frame buffers behind the main spring. Anything that cycles that hard must be hitting the frame really hard too...

Tony
 

TunnelRat

New member
It probably wouldn't hurt to add one of those Wilson rubber frame buffers behind the main spring. Anything that cycles that hard must be hitting the frame really hard too...

Tony


I’ve had mixed luck with Shok Buffs in 1911s. I found them to cause their own malfunctions. If you’re a competition shooter and are going to put tens of thousands of rounds through the pistol I can understand, but casual recreational shooting I feel should be okay.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Jim Watson

New member
If I were going to shoot a 10mm Norma a lot, I would look at one of the spring buffers from Sprinco or DPM. But they are rather expensive.
Recoil spring, mainspring, and firing pin stop selection will probably help at lots lower cost.
 
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Jim Watson

New member
Guy on another board bought a RIA .38 to tinker with and seemed disappointed that it did not need work. "Better than Colt."
 
The days when third-world brands were made by hand like those guns in Pakistan, so that no parts are interchangeable, are long gone. The Filipino and Turkish guns are all made on CNC machines, just like European and American guns.
 

Geezerbiker

New member
I've been using the Wilson buffers for a long time in my Springfield Armory .45 M1911 and I haven't had and malfunctions that weren't happening before. It has always had the problem of occasionally hitting me in the forehead with an ejected case but it's always done that.

Tony
 
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