New M1A Scout Squad owner seeks tips and suggestions

[copenhagen]

My local FFL finally found an M1A Scout Squad for me in Mossy Oak that I had my heart set on.

I have never owned an M1A, and wanted to start out with one I really wanted (a nice mossy oak stock to remind me of the homeland in SC) as long as I am paying close to two grand for the rifle after taxes, dealer record of sale, etc., figured I'd hold out for the stock I wanted. Anyhow . . .

I just wanted to see if anyone had any, ANY tips/suggestions about ANYTHING to do with this particular rifle for a first time owner of an M1A. If you don't mind taking the time to type them, I'd greatly appreciate it. Thank you very much for your time.

(I don't have that AimPoint- that's just the picture from Springfield's website)

 

[hpg]

I do like that rifle.....................hpg

 

[SR420]

Gather the needed tools and cleaning supplies. Learn how to detail strip your rifle.
Make sure it is clean and greased in the appropriate locations.
Acquire a supply of quality ammo and a few USGI or CMI mags.
Read up on sight adjustment and go see how she performs with just the iron sights.

 

[jpwilly]

Plus in order to make them shoot consistantly they usually need bedded (if that one doesn't already come bedded). $2K Ouch! Nice rifle though.

 

[OJ]

Hard to beat an M1A in any model. I shoot my basic model every week. If you want a good manual - there aare many that aren't very helpful, go to Heritage guns - they have one for the M1 and M14 - military version of M1A.

http://www.gunbooks.com/index.html

Enjoy -

 

[NukeCop]

order to make them shoot consistantly they usually need bedded

Errr, ok

 

[wayne in boca]

You won't need to bed your Scout.One upgrade you might want to do is to add a Sadlak oprod spring guide,money well spent.Also you will want a set of Sadlak cleaning drills for the gas system,and a gas cylinder wrench,as well as a combo tool.Check out 44mag.com for real USGI current production 20 round mags.Lubricate with grease,not oil.Buy lots of ammo.Enjoy.

 

[gordo_gun_guy]

good resource

Check out the folks at:

http://www.fultonarmory.com

The two books they sell will tell you everything you could possible want to know about M-14 based rifles. Their FAQ on the Web site is also an excellent free resource.

Your Springfield shouldn't need much out of the box. I've got the original SOCOM 16 and it's been 100% reliable. I've even used it in three-gun matches, much to the annoyance of those whose ear-pro was tailored to AR-15 volume levels.....

Enjoy the "last real battle rifle"!

 

[AK103K]

If your planning on using mil spec type mounts on the rail, you may want to check with Springfield and verify that the rail is really mil spec.

Dont bet on getting a correct answer though. They swore to me that the mount was in fact mil spec, and they also swore that the stock was not a done over GI stock, which was obvious on the first outing, when the paint started chipping off.

My SOCOM's rail wasnt even close to mil spec, Weaver maybe, but none of the mil spec mounts I used worked, and my La Rue mount would not go on at all. Weaver type mounts do work OK.

In the above pic, they show an Aimpoint on an A.R.M.S. #22M68 on the gun. I tried three before I got one to stay "snug". It never got tight either and could be moved by hand pressure. All three mounts worked fine on all the other mil spec rails I have.

I also had the same problem with the ARMS #22 lever rings on my Scout scope. While the rings would not stay tight, they can be set up not to move if you set them on the mount without the scope and butt them against the blocks fore and aft then mount the scope. This worked well and repeated zero well.

My LaRue mount had a double recoil block on it which is spaced for the mil spec rails. Due to this, and the the spacing on the Springfield rail not being correct, it would not go on at all. I got that mount because it was tension adjustable and was hoping it would solve the problem.

Personally, if I get another M1A, I'll just get a standard rifle and put one of the Ultimak rails on it. Their rails are very well made, give more mounting options, and are mil spec. They are also made of aluminum, which doesnt hold the heat like the steel Springfield rail does.

As far as the cammie pattern your looking for. There are companies out there that will do the exact same job on pretty much anything you send them, for around $100 (if I remember right). Freds has new, or like new GI glass stocks for around $35, and nice walnut stocks for around $45. More options for less money and probably a better job.

 

[SR420]

There are three versions of 18.0" barreled M14 type rifles: Bush, Scout and MK14.
The iron sights on all three are excellent, you may end up removing the forward optic
mount in favor of a standard hand guard and running the rifle in a BUSH configuration.
You can also install a KAC RAS or other scout rail that give you more flexibility.
A unitized gas system and a really nice 4.5 lb trigger job are good investments.

Don't rush to spend a bunch of money on modifications before you see how she shoots in her basic form though.

Enjoy

 

[OJ]

The adjustment on my rear sight was always shooting loose but I found a great set on XS Sights, The white stipe on the front is tritium so it not only makes the post easier to see but, if you can think of a reason to need one on an M1A, you have a night sight.

The rear aperture is twice the diameter of the stock one creating, in effect, a "ghost ring" rear sight. I like it - just as accurate and faster to pick up the target.

 

[copenhagen]

Thank Ya'll for the input so far.

AK103K, thank you for depressing me about my first purchase of an M1A.



I am hoping for the best. From everything I have read, Springfield actually makes excellent M1As.

I guess I'll see when it comes in. I already made the down payment and payed for the back ground check based off my opinion of other Springfields I had looked at.

 

[AK103K]

Wasnt trying to depress you, just wanted to point out some things I've run into. I didnt realize you had already bought the rifle.

For the most part, Springfields rifles shoot and work well. The short comings are usually easily remedied, and they dont have to be expensive to do so. I just find it annoying that you pay that much for something and you still have to address things. Their handguns are the same way.

I've owned M1A's in all three lengths, with GI parts and all Springfield parts, and for the most part, all were accurate and reliable. I still have my NM gun, and still regret getting rid of my Bush model. The SOCOM was neat, but other than the short barrel, nothing special, and actually limiting in some respects.

Your on the right track with your choice, hopefully, they have addressed the problems I ran into by now. If not, at least there are alternatives available thet work and wont break the bank.

 

[nbkky71]

Congrats on the purchase copenhagen! You're going to enjoy that rifle. $2K seems a little steep to me, but I have no idea what the prices are like in CA for that rifle.

Aside from ammo, there's only really a few things that you'll need for your rifle.

Get plenty of USGI magazines (while you can).

You'll need a proper set of tools for maintaining the rifle, including
- combo tool
- gas cylinder wrench
- gas system cleaning tools (essentially drill bits with handles)
- bolt disassembly tool. not manadatory, but nice to have

Keep the rifle well lubricated using GREASE, not oil. USGI plastilube or lubriplate works great but a good high-temp automotive grease will do just as well.

I'd sayd that you can expect about 3MOA accuracy with surplus ammo and 2MOA with quality ammo. That muzzle break does a pretty goog job of reducing recoil too.

My M1A has been a competition-only rifle so most of the tips & tricks I know of are related to keeping the rifle in tip-top accuracy. I just got mine back from the gunsmith and she's now a SUPERMATCH equivilent.

 

[copenhagen]

The actual price for the Rifle here was 1,775. That was with a military discount. Then, I had to pay an 7.8 percent sales tax, and a 50 dollar dealer record of sale fee to the state of California. I really do miss SC. I plan on buying lots of USGI mags when I go home to visit in July. Can't get the 20 rounders out here and don't see the point in buying 10 rounders.

Is it going to be OK to use .308 Winchester 147grain FMJ from Winchester? I have read that civilian ammo is more prone to 'slam fire.' I only ask because have about 500 rounds of it for my .308 bolt rifle, and don't know if I need to buy more ammo, this time NATO, or if I can go ahead and use the Winchester.

 

[Ozzieman]

SR420 +++ "Make sure it is clean and greased in the appropriate locations."
Also a good break in, shoot then clean, shoot then clean each round for the first 25 or more rounds. Clean beteen shots until the rags come out clean.
It takes a lot of time and work but it works.

 

[nbkky71]

147gr FMJ will be just fine in that rifle copernhagen. Since the M1A uses a floating firing pin, there does exist the chance of a slam fire occurring. If you fire out of the magazine (and not single loading without one) you should be fine with that ammo.

 

[copenhagen]

SR420 +++ "Make sure it is clean and greased in the appropriate locations."
Also a good break in, shoot then clean, shoot then clean each round for the first 25 or more rounds. Clean beteen shots until the rags come out clean.
It takes a lot of time and work but it works.

I'm definitely planning on keeping her cleaned and greased in the proper spots. Am just curious, what exactly does cleaning between each shot for the first 25 rounds do to enhance the break-in process?

By the way, that is a very pretty rifle nbkky71.

 

[nbkky71]

Thanks alot copenhagan. She looks pretty and also cost a pretty penny! Top notch accuracy in an M1A will set you back some serious $$$. My gunsmith swears she'll hold the X-ring at 600 yards but I haven't had a chance to stretch her legs yet.

As for the barrel break-in... you'll get a variety of opinions as to whether or not it's really necessary. The idea of "shoot one & clean" is to polish out the burrs and imperfections in the bore left from cutting the rifling. I've also heard of folks cleaning with JB Bore paste (a mild abrasive) initially to give it a good polish too.

I say just shoot the rifle. Unless it's horribly inaccurate from the start, don't worry about it.

 

[azredhawk44]

Welcome to the club... I've got the M1A Scout with black stock instead of camo. I actually was out shooting it today!

A lot of people give up right away with the forward optic mount for this rifle since it is so darned heavy. I sold my rail and put on a standard handguard up front, then installed an ARMS #18 directly over the receiver to hold a Leupold FX-2 4x33 scope. The center of balance is atrocious when putting a long eye relief scope so far forward, IMO.

My first installation of this scope went well for about 200 rounds until an extremely bumpy jeep ride knocked it loose while hunting... I took it off for several months and just put it back on today with a few tweaks and several dollops of blue locktite. Shooting prone (no bench), about 75 rounds through it today with 3" groups on 150gr surplus, 2.5" groups with 165gr Remington PSP hunting ammo. I usually get better groups while using only the iron sights, so I think I still have some kinks to work on with the mounting solution... but I haven't tried it with my 168gr HPBT match-level handloads yet. Maybe next week.

Learn her iron sights before you put glass on it... they are fantastic and every bit capable of MOA accuracy unless you are in a low-light situation like dawn/dusk hunting. Best bench accuracy I've gotten with 168gr match loads and iron sights were 1.25" at 100 yards. I've got some vision problems and some technique problems, so a better shooter could probably break that 1.00" barrier with one of these rifles.