New grip project for my Kahr K40

HighValleyRanch

New member
Whew, these are some of the hardest ones I've ever made. Much inletting and different depths of cuts to fit, and it has to be perfect to work! I've done many, many guns, but this is a challenge to cut from scratch.

I always thought that light color wood looked nice on stainless. I've done curly maple on stainless revolvers and those looked bling like hollywood blondes. So since no on makes thin wood grips for the Kahr series except for hogue, I was on my own to make some.

All I had in the shop was cherry, so these are the first attempt to see how the fitting will go. I'm only half way through. Had to make the master inletted model and now I can inlet the panels much faster.

Many people complain that the Hogue wood grips are too thick compared to the original rubber grips. So I wanted to see how thin I can make them. The Hogue wood grips are made out of Pau Ferro which can be toxic or allergic to grind down. This is the left panel matched to the original rubber right side so you can see how thin they are. I cut the backstrap straight on these for my own preferences and to make the grip slimmer and smaller for carry.

Working the the master model for the right panel later this afternoon. Each master has to be cut by hand first and fitted before being able to duplicate off them, so it's a very tedious process.

First photo shows the side view compared to original profile rubber grip.
Second shows the back side and the comparison of the two panels thickness.
Third photo shows the bottom and relative thickness.

There is one guy making carbon fiber grips and another company that makes G10 replacement panels for the Kahrs. But I don't like their profiles and designs. The K9 and K40 take the same grips.

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HighValleyRanch

New member
1. Photo of the master inletting model and the finished grip cut from the master.
2. Photo of the complicated inletting and the frame! 4 levels of cuts just to fit.:eek:
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CockNBama

New member
Very nice!

I'd really like to see photos of your templates, jigs and fixtures, if you don't mind.

It appears to me that you do lots of initial inletting with a router. Do you adjust final fit with chisels, or do you use any planes?

You're right about light colored wood on stainless, and that is going to be spectacular!
 

HighValleyRanch

New member
It appears to me that you do lots of initial inletting with a router. Do you adjust final fit with chisels, or do you use any planes?

I mostly use a 1/4 inch router bit for all the inletting including taking down a good amount of wood. In the photo above of the master model (the one with the screws in it to hold down to the board), it's all done totally with a router step cutting freehand. If the fit is not proper, then I usually will have to re-route rather than use chisels. Never use a plane for anything. Will post a few pics of my duplcating setup and grinding later for your, but all can be done with a simple router, but it's way more time consuming. It took me two hours to make the master model, and then just ten minutes to cut the second one from the master on my setup. I only do that if I plan to make a bunch of similar grips off the same frame, whether for design, prototypes as in my LCRX project or to mass produce later.

The trick on using a router is to only take off a little at a time. So to do a depth of 1/4 inch might take me three passes, a little deeper each time. That way, the router won't bite and go off track. After a little practice, you can cut on a pencil line with the router cut.
 

HighValleyRanch

New member
I'd really like to see photos of your templates, jigs and fixtures, if you don't mind.
The first photo shows my router setup. I replaced the plate with clear plexiglass so I can see the bit cutting better.
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Here's a couple of photos of my setups. Very simple, but adaptable and functional. The duplicator is from Woodworkers Supply and originally was designed for mortise and tenon duplication. I adapted to my flat duplicator. Right hand moves the router and stylus up and down and the LEFT handle moves the router and stylus in and out, so it's like rubbing your stomach and patting your head coordination. The stylus follows the master model and the router bit cuts exactly the same. I made flat wood plates to mount and the master model is exactly 5 inches above the block to be cut the center of stylus to center of router bit is 5"). I work it down gradually. Hog out with 3/4 inch bit and then move down to 3/8" bit for finer detail. Never had a project where I needed to go to 1/4 inch bit. Router is heavy duty and takes 1/2 inch shanks.
The freehand router is a simple Porter Cable, the the heavy duty duplicator is a Freud 2 HP (my third one)
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The second photo shows my main grinder I designed. It uses an electric motor powering a belt that drives a horizontal mandrel that has a chuck to take various sanding drums and discs. I hog or inlet on the duplicator, but shape everything by hand on the sanding mandrell setup. I can get to 90 percent finish shaping with this tool by using various drums. Much easier to move the wood project around the grinding head than to manipulate the grinding hear around the project.
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HighValleyRanch

New member
Here's a few photos of the finished grips, both sides with one sealer coat for final color. I'll wait half a day for it to dry and then buff with fine emery and then top coat it with tru-oil for a gloss finish. Will leave it like that and shoot to decide if I want to stipple it for more traction. Happy with how it came out for the first pair.
They came out as thin as the rubber grips I'm replacing.

Next one will be in white ash. I'm ordering some stainless hex screws to replace the slot screws.
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mete

New member
Nice work ! Light wood/SS is a great combo . That white ash will really be white .The light will in time darken it only very slightly. Try hard maple it will darken to a nice ,warm honey color !
If it wasn't such a pain for a NYer to get another pistol I'd get one .I live only a dozen miles from the new place !! :(
 

HighValleyRanch

New member
Next time i'm at the hardwood store, I will get some curley Maple. When I go there I can also stop at Calico Hardwoods. They make fancy wood shotgun blanks, and have pistol blocks of Mrytle (Oregon Bay), French walnut, and black walnut, with tons of swirl and grain.
Each block is 45.00to 75.00 though!
 

kozak6

New member
Wow! Nice work!

It's always interesting to see pictures of equipment too.

The best part is that I bet it shoots as good as it looks :D.
 

HighValleyRanch

New member
Yeah, I love the trigger on this gun. It's nice to have metal again after so much polymer.
It's shooting the Winchester JHP 180 grain at 970 fps so mid level loads around 380 fp.

Best of all, I got this beauty for 400.00 since no one is buying .40 cal that much anymore, and the seller was eager to move on.
 
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