Need help. S&W M67 won't shoot after cleaning.

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Nick_C_S

New member
So yesterday, I decided to take the side plate off my Smith M67 ("-7"; purchased new in 2014) and clean the hammer/trigger mechanisms. After I put it back together, it won't function.

When I pull the trigger in dbl action, it'll advance the cylinder as usual, but then the trigger gets real heavy just before hammer fall. It takes a lot of finger effort to get the hammer to fall. And it won't cock back for single action at all - gets the same binding feeling; and I don't want to force it.

The disassembly and cleaning went fairly smooth (never done it before - watched a couple u-tube videos). The only hiccup was the pin and bias spring inside the trigger fell out; and it took a few tries to return them to the correct configuration - at least, I think I got it right. When installed, the cylinder advance arm is under spring tension, so it seems right.

The problem seems to be with that one piece (sorry, don't know its name) that is loose and lays right under the side plate. It seems to be some sort of arm that may be a safety feature associated with the hammer??. Anyway, if I leave it out and mock it up with the side plate on, the action functions normally. If I install it, it still works fine - UNTIL I start to screw down the side plate. The more I screw the side plate down to flush with the frame, the more the trigger binding occurs. It gets progressively worse as I screw down the side plate.

Anybody care to help me fix this and save me a trip to a gunsmith?
 
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Tom Servo

Staff
Hammer block, fits in a groove in the side plate.
Click to expand...
It's easy to get that wedged against the frame when reapplying the sideplate. If you shake the gun, you should hear it rattling around in there. If not, that's your problem.
 
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Nick_C_S

New member
If you shake the gun, you should hear it rattling around in there.
Click to expand...

I can hear it rattling around.

For some background: I have a number of S&W revolvers; but this is my only K -frame. I have taken the side plate off my various Smiths bunches of times - including this M67. And I've never had a problem lining up the hammer block to properly install the side plate. But this is the first time I've ever removed the hammer/trigger parts.

I still somehow believe the hammer block is a factor here - I just don't know how or why.
 
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straightshooterjake

New member
I am sure that you know that the hammer block is an important safety mechanism, so you should make sure it is in place before the gun is carried or used. However, a Smith revolver can be fully assembled without the hammer block, and it will function fine. You could try assembling the revolver without the hammer block. If it feels fine, then the hammer block is the issue. If it still has a problem without the hammer block, then there is some other issue.

All modern Smith & Wesson revolvers have very similar actions, so this K-frame is not significantly different from other revolvers that you have previously worked on.

For anyone who want to work on Smith & Wesson revolvers, I recommend Jerry Miculek's video on Smith & Wesson trigger jobs. This video is worth paying for. Even if you do not want to modify parts, the trigger job video gives an excellent introduction to the internal workings of revolvers and to correct assembly procedures. It is also one of the best produced gunsmithing videos I have seen. Jerry Miculek also has another video about assembly and disassembly of revolvers, but these subjects are covered so well in the trigger job video that I am not sure another video is required.

Your model 67 is a great revolver and I am sure you will have the issue worked out shortly.
 
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Nick_C_S

New member
Thanks for the video 243winxb. It gave me some peace of mind, at least, because I can see the internals as they should be.

Dug back into mine. Removed everything - again. I'd still like to know how that little bias spring is supposed to fit inside the trigger. I can put it in where the hand (the part that comes up and rotates the cylinder) has spring tension on it, so I guess it's correct.

I take the hammer block out, and it functions perfectly. Put it back in, and it binds up. It has to be a geometry thing. One thing I noticed, relative to the video, is that my trigger return spring assembly sits slightly farther back than the one in the video. It doesn't quite line up the same - maybe 1/32". Not sure if that would matter, but it would change the position of the post that the hammer block slot sits in.
 
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straightshooterjake

New member
It can be tricky getting the hand spring in place when you put the hand back onto the trigger. But if the hand feels right, then it almost certainly is. When people get the hand spring out of place, then the gun won't cycle. If your action feels fine with the hammer block removed, then I am pretty confident that your hand and hand spring are positioned correctly.

Unfortunately, I cannot guess what is going on with the hammer block, but it does seem like that is the problem.
 
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James K

Member In Memoriam
I think at least part of the trouble may be at the front of the trigger where the trigger engages the cylinder stop. Check the cylinder stop spring and also that the stop itself is not binding; also check the cylinder stop spring to make sure it is in its proper place (your gun has no screw at the front of the trigger guard).

Jim
 
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dahermit

New member
For what it is worth, I find that if I fill the hammer block groove in the side plate with grease it will hold the hammer block in position when the side plate is replaced. Just be sure to push the hammer block all the way to the top of its slot in the side plate. The grease acts like glue, keeps it in the proper position.
 
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James K

Member In Memoriam
Hi, Hermit,

That might work some places, but I have been places in the winter where that grease could become a problem (like a rock!). I have never had any problem getting the hammer block in the right position without any trouble.

Jim
 
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