Mwells,
Twist mainly affects how long a bullet your barrel will stabilize. Extra twist does use up a little powder energy, but not a lot.
The main thing that jumps out at me are that all your powders except the 8208 XBR are faster or slower than are usually most efficient .308. I've run Varget, IMR 4895, H4895, IMR 4064, 748, N135 and N140, Reloader 15 and a number of others that aren't available anymore or that aren't coming to the surface off the top of my head. For bullets about 140 grains to 180 grains, those will be easier to get top accuracy out of. I haven't tried 8208XBR, so I can't comment on ultimate performance, but that's the one I'd start with for your 168-180 grain load. For the 110's, your IMR-4198 will be just fine.
Expect that since your barrel is 22" instead of 24", you will get maybe 40-60 fps less velocity than the Hodgdon test barrel did. If your chamber is looser than theirs, it will likely be more than that, but some barrels shoot faster than others, too, so it's not certain. Having a chronograph is good for that reason.
There is an old rule of thumb for choosing powder for performance. Take a case that was fired in your gun, and before you decap or resize it, weigh it. Fill it with water, then push the bullet of your choice into the loose neck to the same seating depth you intend to use with it or to a manual's recommended seating depth for it. The excess water will squirt out. Dry oof the outside, remove the bullet and weigh it again. Subtract the first weight from the second weight to get the water weight capacity under the bullet. This tells you how much powder space you have. Multiply that weight by .85, then start looking through load manuals for the powders that give the highest velocity with that result as their charge weight. Since velocity and powder weight tend to climb proportionally, you can interpolate between two bracketing charge weight values to get a velocity for the exact 85% water weight. The powders that give you that tend to be good choices to work up a load with.
