Need Advice On Finishing Stock
- Thread starter taco
- Start date
yankytrash
New member
Linseed oil won't offer you much, in terms of both looks and durability. Try tung oil, you won't be sorry. It'll take a lot of coats (7+), but it'll provide a very deep protective finish, and looks nice and even. It's simply wipe it on, let it set, buff it off. Wipe it on, let it set, buff it off. Etc.... You may also opt to sand in each coat with light steel wool, scotchbrite pad, or 220 grit sandpaper.
As an end note, an initial coat of linseed oil on the stock may help the first few coats get off the ground.
As an end note, an initial coat of linseed oil on the stock may help the first few coats get off the ground.
I like tung oil over linseed. Sand the stock smooth then sand it some more. Take it out in the sunlight and mark any remaining scratches with a lead pencil then sand some more.
You can rub the oil in with your fingers or use a lint free rag. Buff it with 000 or 0000 steel wool between coats using a tack cloth to remove the residue. Right before I put the oil on I wiped the stock down with a wet rag then took in in & rotated it over a hot burner on the stove. You don't want the wood soaking wet, just damp. This will remove the 'whiskers' left from sanding and make the surface nice & smooth.
I did the one coat a day for a week then one coat a week for a month routine and it came out really nice.
Wish I had a 'before' photo but this is how it came out
You can rub the oil in with your fingers or use a lint free rag. Buff it with 000 or 0000 steel wool between coats using a tack cloth to remove the residue. Right before I put the oil on I wiped the stock down with a wet rag then took in in & rotated it over a hot burner on the stove. You don't want the wood soaking wet, just damp. This will remove the 'whiskers' left from sanding and make the surface nice & smooth.
I did the one coat a day for a week then one coat a week for a month routine and it came out really nice.
Wish I had a 'before' photo but this is how it came out
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Thanks for your quick replies. Looks like tung oil is the way to go.
If I was to stain the wood should I do it before or after applying tung oil? Or can I apply one or two coats of tung oil and then stain it and then apply several more coats of tung oil?
Sorry for amature questions but this will be my first time.
If I was to stain the wood should I do it before or after applying tung oil? Or can I apply one or two coats of tung oil and then stain it and then apply several more coats of tung oil?
Sorry for amature questions but this will be my first time.
The stock in the photo has no stain, tung oil on raw wood. I finished this 22 the same way.
Here's a link I found useful
http://www.gunstocks.50megs.com/
Here's a link I found useful
http://www.gunstocks.50megs.com/
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taco,
Here's an excellent read on an SKS project which should be similar to your MAK. Try this method.
SKS Project
Here's an excellent read on an SKS project which should be similar to your MAK. Try this method.
SKS Project
desert maus
New member
I have to politely disagree with yankytrash and say that linseed oil makes a very nice finish. However, it's better to use Boiled Linseed Oil, since it dries faster and doesn't get "gummy" down the line, like regular linseed oil does.
Tung oil works great too, but I would recommend pure tung oil, not a "tung oil finish", which usually has all sorts of wierd additives (like Formby's does.) You can find pure Tung Oil (also called China Oil) at woodworker's stores, like Rockler.
Another option would be Birchwood Casey's Tru-Oil. It dries fast, builds fast and looks really nice. I've used it on an old Mauser stock and it came out nice. Tru-Oil is actually a combination of several different types of oils, like linseed, tung, etc. It's a bit pricey at about $5 for a little bottle, but that one bottle should be enough for many coats on one stock. And if it's too glossy for your tastes, just hit it with some #000 or #0000 steel wool after the last coat. The BC Tru-Oil is available at gunshops and Wal-Mart, and BLO is available at most hardware stores (Kleen-Strip brand) and Wal-Mart as well, usually near the paints and solvents.
One word of caution, if you use linseed oil or something with linseed oil in it, DO NOT throw oily rags in the trash
! Linseed oil produces heat as it cures, and oily rags self-ignite very easily and could burn your house down. Instead, let the rags dry out outside before you throw them away (don't ask me how I know this....)
Tung oil works great too, but I would recommend pure tung oil, not a "tung oil finish", which usually has all sorts of wierd additives (like Formby's does.) You can find pure Tung Oil (also called China Oil) at woodworker's stores, like Rockler.
Another option would be Birchwood Casey's Tru-Oil. It dries fast, builds fast and looks really nice. I've used it on an old Mauser stock and it came out nice. Tru-Oil is actually a combination of several different types of oils, like linseed, tung, etc. It's a bit pricey at about $5 for a little bottle, but that one bottle should be enough for many coats on one stock. And if it's too glossy for your tastes, just hit it with some #000 or #0000 steel wool after the last coat. The BC Tru-Oil is available at gunshops and Wal-Mart, and BLO is available at most hardware stores (Kleen-Strip brand) and Wal-Mart as well, usually near the paints and solvents.
One word of caution, if you use linseed oil or something with linseed oil in it, DO NOT throw oily rags in the trash
! Linseed oil produces heat as it cures, and oily rags self-ignite very easily and could burn your house down. Instead, let the rags dry out outside before you throw them away (don't ask me how I know this....)Tung oil will give you a great finish. But I have to agree with Dessert Maus about the Birchwood-Casey Tru Oil. It's quick, it's easy, it's cheap, and it works quite well.
Another option is the Laurel Mountain Forge stock sealer and finish available from Brownells. This stuff is a bit pricey, but if you want a truly great finish, it's the way to go. Laurel Mountain is what I would use if I was refinishing a fine Rigby or Holland and Holland. It's that good! (maybe it's a little TOO good for an AK or SKS. LOL)
Let us know how the project turns out.
P.S. The directions packed with the various finishes say to let it dry for 24 hours between coats. I've had much better luck letting it dry for 48 hours between coats. YRMV
Another option is the Laurel Mountain Forge stock sealer and finish available from Brownells. This stuff is a bit pricey, but if you want a truly great finish, it's the way to go. Laurel Mountain is what I would use if I was refinishing a fine Rigby or Holland and Holland. It's that good! (maybe it's a little TOO good for an AK or SKS. LOL)
Let us know how the project turns out.
P.S. The directions packed with the various finishes say to let it dry for 24 hours between coats. I've had much better luck letting it dry for 48 hours between coats. YRMV
Thank you all for your advice.
I spent 2 nights (total 6-7 hours) sanding and fitting all 4 pieces. I used dremmel tool, razer blade and 180 and 220 grit sand paper to smooth and everything out. When done, all 4 pieces felt like marble. Last night I used some putty to fill in some small areas to make it look okay. Overall I think I did a pretty good job (my wife complimented me) and I'm happy with the result.
The walnut stock looked real light like pine and I wanted to keep with light color wood. When I was in northern China few years ago I saw some PRC Army with Type 56 rifles and noticed that unlike Eastern European AKs which usually has dark wood stocks, their stocks were light colored like honey color. Since my AK is Chinese (MAK-90) I wanted similar colored stock. I decided to use Minwax walnut stain mixed 50/50 with natural stain.
I applyed the first stain this morning before going to work and this evening I applyed the second coat. Tomorrow morning I'm going to apply third coat and the let it dry completely in the sun.
My final step will be to apply 2 or 3 coats of tung oil.
My final question is, should I apply some kind of overcoat after the tung oil? Is there any overcoat which will protect the stock from Hoppe bore cleaner and RemOil? I don't want to worry too much about damaging the stock when cleaning the rifle. Any recommendation will be greatly appreciated.
I'll post some pics when I'm done... if I can find my camera.
I spent 2 nights (total 6-7 hours) sanding and fitting all 4 pieces. I used dremmel tool, razer blade and 180 and 220 grit sand paper to smooth and everything out. When done, all 4 pieces felt like marble. Last night I used some putty to fill in some small areas to make it look okay. Overall I think I did a pretty good job (my wife complimented me) and I'm happy with the result.
The walnut stock looked real light like pine and I wanted to keep with light color wood. When I was in northern China few years ago I saw some PRC Army with Type 56 rifles and noticed that unlike Eastern European AKs which usually has dark wood stocks, their stocks were light colored like honey color. Since my AK is Chinese (MAK-90) I wanted similar colored stock. I decided to use Minwax walnut stain mixed 50/50 with natural stain.
I applyed the first stain this morning before going to work and this evening I applyed the second coat. Tomorrow morning I'm going to apply third coat and the let it dry completely in the sun.
My final step will be to apply 2 or 3 coats of tung oil.
My final question is, should I apply some kind of overcoat after the tung oil? Is there any overcoat which will protect the stock from Hoppe bore cleaner and RemOil? I don't want to worry too much about damaging the stock when cleaning the rifle. Any recommendation will be greatly appreciated.
I'll post some pics when I'm done... if I can find my camera.
Taco,
About the only "overcoat" that I can think of that will protect your finish is polyurethane. This stuff is as shiny as varnish, however.
If you use polyurethane, A bit of "sanding" with 0000 steel wool after complete drying should take away the shine.
One thing that I would recommend. If you do use the polyurethane, let your stock "cure" for a couple of weeks after final finishing before applying the polyurethane. Then let the polyurethane cure for a week or two before sanding.
Good luck with the project, and let us know how it turns out!
About the only "overcoat" that I can think of that will protect your finish is polyurethane. This stuff is as shiny as varnish, however.
If you use polyurethane, A bit of "sanding" with 0000 steel wool after complete drying should take away the shine.
One thing that I would recommend. If you do use the polyurethane, let your stock "cure" for a couple of weeks after final finishing before applying the polyurethane. Then let the polyurethane cure for a week or two before sanding.
Good luck with the project, and let us know how it turns out!
C. D. Beaver
New member
Iron out the wrinkles
When you have sanded down the stock all that you think is necessary, try this tip I learned many years ago and probably is not news to any old timer:
"Borrow" your wife's iron. Take an old wrag (a towel that has been discarded works well), dampen it good. Place it on the stock and "Iron" it. You'll be amazed at the little fuzzy pieces of wood that stick up.
Steel wool or sand off the frizzies; then do it over again and again until you can no longer raise any more wood. Then your stock is ready for finish treatment.
Pro Patria
When you have sanded down the stock all that you think is necessary, try this tip I learned many years ago and probably is not news to any old timer:
"Borrow" your wife's iron. Take an old wrag (a towel that has been discarded works well), dampen it good. Place it on the stock and "Iron" it. You'll be amazed at the little fuzzy pieces of wood that stick up.
Steel wool or sand off the frizzies; then do it over again and again until you can no longer raise any more wood. Then your stock is ready for finish treatment.
Pro Patria
desert maus
New member
Polyurathane makes a very durable clearcoat. However, I would recommend Spar Urathane for your clearcoat, for a couple reasons. First, Spar is meant for boats, and it's probably one of the strongest and most waterproof clearcoats available. Second, it's more UV-resistant than most other clearcoats, meaning it'll keep your stain from fading in the sun. And it doesn't have a tendancy to yellow over time, like some other clearcoats can.
Having said all that, Spar tends to be a little more expensive than regular poly, but is worth it to me. If you don't plan on rough use of your rifle, regular poly should work just fine. Minwax makes a fine Spar (IIRC, Minwax Helmsman), and it's always advisable to stick with the same manufacturer of your finishing supplies if possible. This is a better guarantee that your stain and clearcoat will get along.
Other than that, and the above-mentioned "whiskering" removal, you should be good to go.
One more note though. Walnut is a tight-pored wood and as such, it is not recommended that you sand with anything finer than about 400gr max (actually, 220 is the best) because finer sandings will start to burnish the wood and seal the pores. If this happens, your clearcoat will not adhere very well at all and tend to chip off. But you can fine sand the clearcoat as fine as you want to go, depending on how smooth and glossy you want to get it.
One more thing (sorry, I'm almost done): Make sure you let your final coat of stain dry THOROUGHLY for at least 24 hours before clearcoating. Because most of Minwax's stains are oil-based, any wet oil will not get along with clearcoats so they need to dry completely. Don't rush it and your stock will come out beautifully.
BTW, once it's done, you should post a pic or two if you can, so we can all see it.
Having said all that, Spar tends to be a little more expensive than regular poly, but is worth it to me. If you don't plan on rough use of your rifle, regular poly should work just fine. Minwax makes a fine Spar (IIRC, Minwax Helmsman), and it's always advisable to stick with the same manufacturer of your finishing supplies if possible. This is a better guarantee that your stain and clearcoat will get along.
Other than that, and the above-mentioned "whiskering" removal, you should be good to go.
One more note though. Walnut is a tight-pored wood and as such, it is not recommended that you sand with anything finer than about 400gr max (actually, 220 is the best) because finer sandings will start to burnish the wood and seal the pores. If this happens, your clearcoat will not adhere very well at all and tend to chip off. But you can fine sand the clearcoat as fine as you want to go, depending on how smooth and glossy you want to get it.
One more thing (sorry, I'm almost done): Make sure you let your final coat of stain dry THOROUGHLY for at least 24 hours before clearcoating. Because most of Minwax's stains are oil-based, any wet oil will not get along with clearcoats so they need to dry completely. Don't rush it and your stock will come out beautifully.
BTW, once it's done, you should post a pic or two if you can, so we can all see it.