Need a muzzle brake.

savagest

New member
I have a savage model 10, great rifle! Anyways i cant really shoot the gun without a spotter because the thing jumps all crazy. What muzzle brakes work for a snappy 308?
 

T. O'Heir

New member
What ammo you using? How are you shooting?
"...because the thing jumps..." Might be more about technique than recoil. Any brake will do. You will have a significant increase in muzzle blast and noise with a brake too.
 

tobnpr

New member
The two I install primarily are the JP Recoil Eliminator, and the Holland's QD. The JP is fugly, but very effective.

You made a good point- some brakes excel at one thing (recoil reduction) better than reducing muzzle rise. Ground signature is important for some, while irrelevant for benchrest shooters.

I have my 7-08 braked for exactly that reason- no need for a spotter, I can spot my hits.

Good read:


http://precisionrifleblog.com/2015/08/21/muzzle-brake-summary-of-field-test-results/
 

hartcreek

Moderator
I just can not see you needing a muzzle brake on a .308. My great nephew maybe but he only weighs fifty pounds. I suspect that you have other problems going on if it jumps around all crazy.

I shoot a 1955 Remington 721 in 30-06 and have shot 250 rounds in a couple hours with NO jumping around.

I also have a Savage Model 10 in .308 sitting in my gunlocker that needs sighting in as the previous owner did a poor scope install and the scope was mounted canted and crooked. I suspect that it will not jump around all crazy either.

What shooting training have you had?
 

cw308

New member
Check out Witt Machine, I have a custom brake on my 308 Rem 700 it cuts down recoil & jump. My friend has a brake from Witt Machine works just as good as mine. Mine was installed by a gunsmith for $100 the brake was $275. His was $100. Clamps on to the barrel. My next brake will be from Witt Machine. Makes shooting more enjoyable, not for the shooter next to you. The blast from the muzzle blew his box of 308's over.
 

tobnpr

New member
I shoot a 1955 Remington 721 in 30-06 and have shot 250 rounds in a couple hours with NO jumping around.

So, if you're shooting steel, you can spot your points of impact- no need for a spotter?

Frankly, I get a bit tired of this "why do you need a brake on a .308 (or whatever)- are you a wuss or something?"

If you've not shot your rifle, with- and without a brake- you have no basis for an opinion.
 

Sharkbite

New member
Spotting your own hits can be fairly hard to do with any ctg delivering much recoil. I can watch my hits on a 223 bolt gun but not with any of my 308's.

Take a friend to the range and have him spot for you. Its a team sport;)
 

hartcreek

Moderator
I can spot my own hits using my 721 but then I do have x32 to do it. I see so many people purchasing to much truck, dog, firearm you name it to compensate for a lack of something. .308 and .30-06 have been standard hunting cartridges for deckades. If one is not man or woman enough to shoot one then they simply should not purchase one .......just that simple. Puttin a muzzle brake on such a caliber is just addmitting that that caliber is to much for you.......period.

It could well be your lack of technique that is giving you problems. Correct your technique and you might not need the muzzle brake. I am only 5 10 and 210 pounds and if I can handle 30-06 with no brake then............ A muzzle brake will only "fix" the problem with the individual rifle that you install the brake on technique will fix the problem with any rifle that you shoot.
 
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savagest

New member
I shoot a from a bench or prone. I always shoot with a spotter. I also shoot handloads that are loaded almost to the max. I also use bags and a bipod.

I am a pretty good shot, but no official training. Sorry if it offends anyone but i need a brake and was looking for suggestions.
 

Wendyj

New member
I use the little bastard brake and for the same reason. I don't need a spotter. Best brake I ever bought. It doesn't have to be timed. Screw onto threads turn to where muzzles are to the side and tighten lock nut. Makes great for cleaning and I take it off and swap to my 300 wsm and 300 win mag. Gen2. American Precision Arms. Around $160.00. All they need is thread size.
 

AllenJ

New member
Depending on the weight of your rifle I don't think you'll need anything to expensive. I have a Savage Precision Carbine in 308 Win and it has a mid-weight barrel. I purchased a break off Amazon in the $40 range and it did the trick for me. I was careful to get one that did not have ports pointing downward as I did not want a dust storm while shooting prone.
 

reynolds357

New member
I do not like any of the commercial brakes. They are too loud and annoying. Brakes do not have to be obnoxiously loud to the shooter if you direct the gasses into each other at the proper angles and with the proper spacing between the opposing angled ports. For some reason, none of the commercial manufacturers I have seen have figured this out. One of my friends is an acoustical engineer and he designed the brake. He has it patented, but he lets me cut as many of them as I want without charging me. He does not market them or produce them. He might eventually do it.
 

nemesiss45

New member
I do not have a brake on any of my 308s, but I did put a brake on my ar15 to settle it under rapid fire. I did a bit of research and found a brake that, while not the most effective at reducing recoil or muzzle rise, was among the best in a large side by side test but only cost $17 (at the time I bought it). they make the same brake for .308 (which I was sent accidentally the first time) the brake is available on amazon and goes by various names. to find it, search ".308 muzzle brake" and look for the one around $20 called "competition muzzle device brake". I cant say I would put one on a .308 bolt gun, but on my AR, I got it tuned to let me stay on target much easier for follow-up shots. it does howl like a banshee though.
 

tobnpr

New member
They are too loud and annoying. Brakes do not have to be obnoxiously loud to the shooter if you direct the gasses into each other at the proper angles and with the proper spacing between the opposing angled ports.

Brake design is above my pay grade, but am ordering a reference book to get a bit more educated on the subject. Another gunsmith friend of mine that eats code for breakfast is setting up a 4-axis and wants to design and manufacture.

Brakes can be designed for one purpose, or several. Suppressors have felt recoil reduction, but not to the extent of a brake specifically designed for that purpose. If it's all about recoil reduction, Newton's 3rd law would seem to me to the primary consideration. Best way to offset the recoil forces is to direct the gases rearward. And brakes are not loud to the shooter- I find no difference in noise, but they are louder to those off to the side.

Over 60% of the top 100 in PRS use brakes including most of the top 10 (and nearly 30% use suppressors), very few use no muzzle device.

http://precisionrifleblog.com/2015/12/12/rifle-suppressor/

But that's why there's ear protection. It's like griping about the guy at the bench next to you with an AR or AK ripping off magazines indiscriminately.
Loud and annoying? You bet. But that's life at a public range.

Testing and data:

http://precisionrifleblog.com/2015/08/21/muzzle-brake-summary-of-field-test-results/
 

tobnpr

New member
^^ Probably 5/8"-24. You'll need a crush washer for installation since the barrel is already threaded, unless you purchase a brake that doesn't need to be timed/indexed.
 

Madball6

New member
I use an Alamo 4 star Cowl Induction Brake, works wonders. Makes my 6.5cm feel like a .22lr. I'm guessing it would make your .308 feel like a 22mag/.223


-Madball
 

hnusz

New member
I use a M41 severe duty muzzle brake from precisionarmament on my 338 win mag. Recoil is slighty reduced but no muzzle jump. They make them in .264 .308 .338 cost 110-120. They do not need to be indexed.
 
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