My reloads are a 185 grain jacketed bullet loaded with Bullseye. The Ruger and Kimber are both 1911's. The Ruger fires the rounds flawlessly while the slide on the Kimber will not operate at all. The slide must be operated manually on every single round. The cartridge will go into battery, the gun will fire, but the slide will not go back. Could the Kimber be too dirty or could the tolerances on my reloads be too far off to operate in the Kimber?
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My reloads in Ruger and Kimber
- Thread starter AL45
- Start date
chris in va
New member
This really belngs in the reloading section, but...
I would approach this like anything else with reloads. Powder charge min/max per manual, OAL and bullet type etc. Does the Kimber function with factory ammo?
I would approach this like anything else with reloads. Powder charge min/max per manual, OAL and bullet type etc. Does the Kimber function with factory ammo?
What WAS the load you mention?
I've used 4.0/Bullseye/200 LSWC in .45 ACP as a plinking load and it almost always operates in whatever 1911A1 or other auto I use it in. For the few that failed to feed/fire/extract/eject/work like it supposed-ta-wuz, the same powder charge with a 225 TC or 230 LRN makes them run just fine without having to resort to ball-type ammo and the attendant recoil.
Just a guess on my part, but the first thing that occurs to me is recoil springs of different power (Hooke's coefficient, I think?). Is the Kimber's spring stiffer than the Ruger's ?
I've used 4.0/Bullseye/200 LSWC in .45 ACP as a plinking load and it almost always operates in whatever 1911A1 or other auto I use it in. For the few that failed to feed/fire/extract/eject/work like it supposed-ta-wuz, the same powder charge with a 225 TC or 230 LRN makes them run just fine without having to resort to ball-type ammo and the attendant recoil.
Just a guess on my part, but the first thing that occurs to me is recoil springs of different power (Hooke's coefficient, I think?). Is the Kimber's spring stiffer than the Ruger's ?
chris in va
New member
I just find it odd the slide doesn't even come back. Usually a reload will choke with a stovepipe or something if the gun doesn't like it. Does it pass the plunk test?
bedbugbilly
New member
Where are you at with your load in regards to min/max?
How does your Kimber slide work when hand moving/racking it? Field strip it and put the slide back on and slowly operate it by hand . . . any hang-ups, roughness, etc? I had a 1911 style slide one time that I had to cycle a couple hundred times with toothpaste on the rails as a light abrasive to polish it so it cycled smoothly.
Just because a reload will work in one handgun does not mean it will work in the next. Travel, fit of slide to rails, strength of recoil spring, etc. all add to the variables.
I don't reload and shoot 45 but I do 9mm. I have a SR9 and a Shield. As an example, with a 120 gr lead cast and 3.5 grains of Bulls Eye, my SR9 will shoot and cycle perfectly. The Shield? My 3.5 grind BE load and the same bullet will not cycle it like it should. Bumping the load up to 3.7 grains, the Shield does fine. So that load also works well in the SR9 and i can use the same load for both pistols. Bump the BE load up to 4.0 gr. of BE and the Shield will experience FTF/FTE.
You know your present load will not cycle the Kimber. See where you are on your min/max load data. If you still have room to more towards the max, load up sample rounds and increase in .2 grain increments and see what happens.
Next question is have you tried running any store bought ammo through the Kimber? Does it function with that?
The only experience I have with Kimbers is shooting next to guys at the range who have them. I know they are supposed to be good, but I have seen fellows have a lot of problems with theirs . . . either through operator error or a problem with the gun. Good luck and hope you can find a round that will shoot and cycle well.
How does your Kimber slide work when hand moving/racking it? Field strip it and put the slide back on and slowly operate it by hand . . . any hang-ups, roughness, etc? I had a 1911 style slide one time that I had to cycle a couple hundred times with toothpaste on the rails as a light abrasive to polish it so it cycled smoothly.
Just because a reload will work in one handgun does not mean it will work in the next. Travel, fit of slide to rails, strength of recoil spring, etc. all add to the variables.
I don't reload and shoot 45 but I do 9mm. I have a SR9 and a Shield. As an example, with a 120 gr lead cast and 3.5 grains of Bulls Eye, my SR9 will shoot and cycle perfectly. The Shield? My 3.5 grind BE load and the same bullet will not cycle it like it should. Bumping the load up to 3.7 grains, the Shield does fine. So that load also works well in the SR9 and i can use the same load for both pistols. Bump the BE load up to 4.0 gr. of BE and the Shield will experience FTF/FTE.
You know your present load will not cycle the Kimber. See where you are on your min/max load data. If you still have room to more towards the max, load up sample rounds and increase in .2 grain increments and see what happens.
Next question is have you tried running any store bought ammo through the Kimber? Does it function with that?
The only experience I have with Kimbers is shooting next to guys at the range who have them. I know they are supposed to be good, but I have seen fellows have a lot of problems with theirs . . . either through operator error or a problem with the gun. Good luck and hope you can find a round that will shoot and cycle well.
Are both pistols new or have they gone through acceptable break in rounds?
Check recoil springs. Is one heavier than the other/ are they OEM weight?
It could be that the Kimber is dirty and/or too dry.
Also check shooting technique of shooters (grip, wrist, etc).
It is possible that reloaded ammo is just weak enough to cause failure when combination of possible issues stack up.
Check recoil springs. Is one heavier than the other/ are they OEM weight?
It could be that the Kimber is dirty and/or too dry.
Also check shooting technique of shooters (grip, wrist, etc).
It is possible that reloaded ammo is just weak enough to cause failure when combination of possible issues stack up.
The operation of a recoil operated semi automatic is a balancing act. The recoil of the round vs. the inertia of the moving parts and spring tension.
It is entirely possible that Gun A and Gun B have slightly different minimum needs to reliably cycle.
I had a .45ACP target load that would not cycle my 1911A1, but ran reliably through my Sig P220. Light load, cases just seem to roll out of the ejection port and fall strait down, but it cycled, every time.
Also had a hot load that while "snappy" showed no pressure signs in the Sig, but cratered primers in the 1911.
Every gun is a little different.
The Kimber works with factory ammo, so there is nothing "wrong" with it. Your reloads feed and chamber ok, so you got the dimensions right. You are just at a point where the load is enough for Gun A, but not Gun B.
It is entirely possible that Gun A and Gun B have slightly different minimum needs to reliably cycle.
I had a .45ACP target load that would not cycle my 1911A1, but ran reliably through my Sig P220. Light load, cases just seem to roll out of the ejection port and fall strait down, but it cycled, every time.
Also had a hot load that while "snappy" showed no pressure signs in the Sig, but cratered primers in the 1911.
Every gun is a little different.
The Kimber works with factory ammo, so there is nothing "wrong" with it. Your reloads feed and chamber ok, so you got the dimensions right. You are just at a point where the load is enough for Gun A, but not Gun B.
Other thoughts
If I read the OP's post correctly, the Kimber will feed and shoot fine, but will not eject the SWC reloads. Several responses had good suggestions. Here are mine:
1. I presume you have tried a thorough cleaning and lube on the slide and receiver rails.
2. If you have shot several hundred rounds through the Kimber, look at the rails on the slide and receiver and the lock up rings on the slide and barrel to see if there are heavier or uneven rubbing which might need a little stoning.
3. Check the slide lock up ring and slide lock up pin to make sure they don't bind. One way to do this is to assemble the gun without the recoil spring and just work the slide back and forth.
4. Try using a lighter spring. They are cheap and come in one-pound increments. It might be more desireable to change the spring in your Kimber rather than shooting a hotter load for one auto vs the other in order to make it eject.
5. If I understand your OP correctly, it is not that the spent case fails to eject, but the slide does not move back during recoil. If I mis-interpreted your OP and the cases will not eject, then check the ejector by removing the slide and placing a spent cartridge in the ejector. The ejector should firmly hold the ejector in place. I know my reloaded cases have a few dings and dents from being used.
Good luck.
If I read the OP's post correctly, the Kimber will feed and shoot fine, but will not eject the SWC reloads. Several responses had good suggestions. Here are mine:
1. I presume you have tried a thorough cleaning and lube on the slide and receiver rails.
2. If you have shot several hundred rounds through the Kimber, look at the rails on the slide and receiver and the lock up rings on the slide and barrel to see if there are heavier or uneven rubbing which might need a little stoning.
3. Check the slide lock up ring and slide lock up pin to make sure they don't bind. One way to do this is to assemble the gun without the recoil spring and just work the slide back and forth.
4. Try using a lighter spring. They are cheap and come in one-pound increments. It might be more desireable to change the spring in your Kimber rather than shooting a hotter load for one auto vs the other in order to make it eject.
5. If I understand your OP correctly, it is not that the spent case fails to eject, but the slide does not move back during recoil. If I mis-interpreted your OP and the cases will not eject, then check the ejector by removing the slide and placing a spent cartridge in the ejector. The ejector should firmly hold the ejector in place. I know my reloaded cases have a few dings and dents from being used.
Good luck.
How hot do you load your reloads? Kimbers have a heavy Recoil Spring and sometimes function better with hotter loads and heavier bullets. Getting off the 1911 topic but Kimber actually put right in the owners manual that they suggest using minimum of 124 grain bullets where the majority of the 9mm cheaper target/plinking ammo is 115 grain and a lot of 9mm protection ammo is as light as 90 grain.
I'll admit to being bais as I have 2 Kimbers but I personally feel they are the best 1911. I like my Kimbers more than my Wilson which cost over twice what most Kimbers do but that's just my opinion.
I'll admit to being bais as I have 2 Kimbers but I personally feel they are the best 1911. I like my Kimbers more than my Wilson which cost over twice what most Kimbers do but that's just my opinion.
My Colt Gold Cup from the 70's will shoot just about anything including min loads for lead.
My Kimber Royal will not. It needs to be in the upper end to function flawlessly.
This is for lead. I don't shoot jacketed in the Colt and very few in the Kimber.
I had the same problem with my Glock 34. Shooting target rounds that worked flawlessly in my 26 had about a 50% failure rate in the 34. Even when I replaced the barrel in the 34 with a wolf so that I can shoot lead it was the same. Loading them above the 75% range fixed everything. Makes it a pain in the but since I now have two different 9mm target loads.
Are your cases coming out sooty on the out side?
That is another indication of to low of a pressure.
My Kimber Royal will not. It needs to be in the upper end to function flawlessly.
This is for lead. I don't shoot jacketed in the Colt and very few in the Kimber.
I had the same problem with my Glock 34. Shooting target rounds that worked flawlessly in my 26 had about a 50% failure rate in the 34. Even when I replaced the barrel in the 34 with a wolf so that I can shoot lead it was the same. Loading them above the 75% range fixed everything. Makes it a pain in the but since I now have two different 9mm target loads.
Are your cases coming out sooty on the out side?
That is another indication of to low of a pressure.