My new M1 Garand

[Chipperman]

Finally bought a Garand a couple of weeks ago at a small gun shop.
Can't wait to shoot it, but the weather has not been cooperative. Anyway, a few questions:

How do I tell if it's a Danish Garand? I tried searching here and some M1 sites, but have not found info about Danish markings. According to the SN, the rifle was made 1955-1957, so it's pretty late. There are no marks on the reciever that I can see, other than the usual ones. I'm thinking it's not a Dane because of that.

The stock pieces are in reasonable shape, but they are all different types of wood. The main stock has white paint on the bottom of the grip that says "66". The cartouche, if there was one, is no longer present on the side of the butt.

How necessary is the "M1 takedown tool"? Is there anything I can't do with a good tool set at home? I figure I'll get one anyway for coolness factor, but do I need one right away?

When loading clips, you are supposed to have the uppermost cartridge to the left (when looking from the primer end), correct? Will the rifle function normally if you reverse that?

I don't know what it is about this rifle, but I love it already and I haven't even firred it. The weight and balance, the history, the inherent accuracy. I'm giddy.

There are many like it, but this one is MINE

 

[30Cal]

The Danes usually have a 5 or 6 digit stamped rack number above the lower sling swivel. Other than that or Danish parts, I don't know if there's any positive indicators.

Takedown tool is useful, but not necessary for normal cleaning. I keep an M10 type tool (which doubles as a handle for those wretched segmented cleaning rod) that I keep in the buttstock which is handy if you want to strip the bolt down.

Ty

 

[Chipperman]

Thanks for the reply.

Are you saying the stamp is on the swivel itself, or the stock next to the swivel? I don't have it in front of me, but do not recall seeing anything there.

 

[Noban]

Chipperman - I've loaded clips either way and they seem to work fine. I do find that having the top round to the right makes loading easier for me as it facilitates a straighter push down with the thumb (small hands).

 

[Glock40]

If you ever want to make the rifle like new, I can't recommend DGR high enough. You should see what he did to mine.

http://www.dgrguns.com/

 

[Dave P]

Danes

How to tell if its Danish: looks for crumbs, ants and matching coffee stains!


Serial Number: Look for 3/8 " numbers stamped into stock at rear sling swivel.

BBL: if it was re-barrelled - may have the danish crown and VAR visable next to op-rod.

Any Pietro Baretta (PB) parts? My dane has a few.

FWIW: took mine out at lunch today to check loads for an upcoming match. First 2 types of loads were about 5 MOA, and then the third type had all 5 rnds touching!?!? Wanna take odds I can't repeat that result?

 

[TEA]

Which manufacturer is it? IHC and HRA Garands were not loaned to the Danes. Even if its a SA, I think the serial number is too high to be a Dane. I believe that the Garand lending program to the Danes was around 47-52 or 53 and were mostly WWII vintage rifles. By the early '50s, Bereta was making Garands on Winchester's old machinery (but with a much nicer finish ) for the European NATO countries that were using the Garand.

 

[sleeping dog]

What makes you think it's a Dane? Is that what the store clerk said?

It sounds like that's unlikely, without the number stamped in the stock and the dime-size inlet in the pistol grip.

Regards.

 

[Chipperman]

It's a Springfield SN 5,890,xxx

The barrel is marked SA F6565448 6 55 A227B There are also a couple of random "P"s and an"M" stamped near the barrel SN (Dose the 55 mean 1955?)
The bolt is marked D28287-12SA RE6B
The trigger guard is marked C 46025 WRA (Is that Winchester?)

I don't see any other parts with easily visible SN's.

There is no stamp that I can see on the stock. The only mark is the painted "66" I gues the stock has been sanded at some point.

I guess it's not a Dane. Not that important to me, I just want to know as much history of my rifle as I can get. Thanks for the replies.

 

[swampyMO]

Hey chipperman,

With a serial number that high your rifle is almost certainly NOT a Dane return rifle. MOST Dane return M1's are from the WWII era, though a few were lent to them from the early Korean war production. It COULD be a Dane parts kit assembled on a late SA receiver, but most likely not, especailly since the barrel date of 6-55 appears to match the receiver date of manufacture. Check all the small internal and sight parts for Dane & Italian markings to be sure.

Please note however, that on a US military rifle there is only ONE serial number and that is on the receiver. The other numbers you are seeing are drawing numbers, heat lot numbers, and dates. On the barrel the long number you are seeing is the manufacturer "SA", then the drawing number, then the date of mfg "6-55". I think the A227B may be a heat lot but I'm not absolutely certain. The P & M are proofing stamps.

Like all M1's yours is a parts mixmaster. The Winchester trigger guard and the -12SA bolt are dead giveaways as both of these are WWII era parts. Probably other WWII parts as well....

Is the wood all walnut??? Or are any of the pieces birch or beech?? Walnut is of course US issue, WWII up through early 50's. Birch is US issue replacement wood from the 50's and later. Beech is replacement wood from Denmark.

To check for certain if you have a Dane return rifle, check all the parts for some of the following:

Dane return Garands might not have ANY distinguishing marks. It is entirely possible that you can't tell a Dane from a USGI rifle if it still has all it's original US parts. This would be pretty rare, but could happen...

A Dane return M1 MAY have ANY ONE, SEVERAL, or ALL of the following marks:

1) Disk cutout in the bottom of the pistol grip.

2) Serial number in lower heel of the buttstock. This may or may not match the receiver.

3) Partial 4 digit serial etched in bolt. Again, may not match the receiver.

4) Sight cover with Danish Navy Anchor and 4 dight rack number etched on it in gold.

5) Barrel made by Dane (VAR) or Italian makers.

6) Bolt, op-rod, sights, trigger assy parts, and internals with Dane or Italian makers initials... VAR, BMB, PB, etc.

7) Buttstock made of European beechwood, usually stained dark to match walnut handguards. A good solid wood but distinctive in appearance. It has a "checkerboard" grain pattern.

Note re "importers marks... CMP Dane return rifles do not have importers marks stamped on the barrel. Importers marks are required by US law on any rifle brought in from foreign countries by commercial importers. The CMP's Dane rifles are technically US Army property and always have been... The Danes "borrowed" them and then returned them directly to the US Army. No commercial importers were involved. If it has an importers mark on the barrel, it is not a CMP rifle.

Regardless of where it came from it sounds like you have a fine M1. Enjoy

Best regards,
Swampy

 

[zanthope]

When loading clips, you are supposed to have the uppermost cartridge to the left (when looking from the primer end), correct? Will the rifle function normally if you reverse that?

No matter how you load it, half will always be on the left, and half always on the right. The rifles will function in either case.

The left-side orientation is for left-handed people. If you're right handed, just reverse them.

As long as you keep your thumb pressed down on the top cartridge - whether left or right - while you're forcing the clip down into the receiver, the bolt can't close on your thumb! (M1-thumb ...ow.) Click it down in there and pull your hand away smartly. The bolt may or may not close by itself, and might need a little forward assist with the heel of you hand on the op-rod.

Sounds like you have an interesting rifle. They are a LOT of fun. Good luck with it.

 

[Art Eatman]

Elmer Keith, in his "Hell, I Was There" spoke of the deal about the top round being to the right or left. This only affected the earliest Garands, and was fixed before WW II.

I don't remember the details, right offhand, but you're supposed to own that book, anyway.

Art

 

[TEA]

Speaking of books, you should also consider getting Scott Duff's two volume set on the Garand if you want more history and technical data. Bruce Cansfieilds book on the Garand is great for the early history of the Garand, as well. If you plan on doing any of your own gunsmithing Kunhauesan's (sp?) shop manual on the Caliber 30 rifle will be invaluable.

A couple of more notes on your rifle. It seems as if you have an original barrel-receiver combo, which increases the value of your M1 a bit. Also, the white numbers on the stock are US Army barracks markings. They used to number the buttstocks so that the troops could easily pick out their assigned rifles when locked up in the barracks rifle rack. Don't know why I missed that they first time, but that alone pretty much rules out the chances of your's having been a Danish rifle. If you're interested in maintaining the history of your rifle, you may want to consider not removing those numbers.

One warning, collecting Garands can be addicting. The technical term for it is Garanditis. There is even a support group for those afflicted by Garanditis - the Garand Collectors Association (GCA). Many victims of Garanditis also post on Culvers Shooting Page's M1 Garand and M14/M1A forum.

Garanditis Support Group on CSP

 

[Chipperman]

The stock is lighter wood (birch maybe), and I think the forearms are walnut. The forearms are closer to matching than the main stock, which is much lighter. They appear to be from 3 different rifles, however.

It would be cool if the barrel and reciever were from the same original rifle.

I'll leave those painted stock marks alone, if they are original.

Thanks for the great info guys.

 

[swampyMO]

Chipperman wrote:

"The stock is lighter wood (birch maybe), and I think the forearms are walnut."


If the buttstock is birch, then it's US made. If it's beechwood, then it's European, aka Danish.

Beechwood usually has a very distinctive "speckled" or "checkerboard" band of very light spots in it's grain pattern. Turn the stock around and look for this band of spots running lengthwise down the stock. If you find it, beechwood, otherwise you probably have a US birch stock.

Garands forever,
Swampy