My first 1911 - question about barrel bushing fit.

ScottRiqui

New member
I just picked up a Remington R1 Saturday. This is my first 1911-style gun that uses a barrel bushing (my Springfield EMP is a compact 1911, but it doesn't use a barrel bushing).

I dimly remember reading something about sliding the barrel out of the slide a little ways before unscrewing the bushing from the slide - I think the concern was that the bushing/barrel clearance is tighter near the muzzle, and rotating the bushing while it's in contact with the muzzle end would loosen the fit, possibly degrading accuracy. Unfortunately, I can't find anything on the subject now.

Am I remembering this correctly? And if so, is this only an issue with tightly-fitted high-end or custom guns, or is this a general practice with all 1911s?
 

KyJim

New member
Am I remembering this correctly? And if so, is this only an issue with tightly-fitted high-end or custom guns, or is this a general practice with all 1911s?
You are remembering correctly. While true, it is probably over-hyped a bit. It would potentially be more of a factor the tighter the bushing to barrel is fit. I wouldn't be too concerned about it unless you are blasting the X ring out at 50 yards.
 

OJ

New member
ScottRiqui
Senior Member


Join Date: January 26, 2010
Location: Norfolk, VA
Posts: 1,406 My first 1911 - question about barrel bushing fit.

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I just picked up a Remington R1 Saturday. This is my first 1911-style gun that uses a barrel bushing (my Springfield EMP is a compact 1911, but it doesn't use a barrel bushing).

I dimly remember reading something about sliding the barrel out of the slide a little ways before unscrewing the bushing from the slide - I think the concern was that the bushing/barrel clearance is tighter near the muzzle, and rotating the bushing while it's in contact with the muzzle end would loosen the fit, possibly degrading accuracy. Unfortunately, I can't find anything on the subject now.

Am I remembering this correctly? And if so, is this only an issue with tightly-fitted high-end or custom guns, or is this a general practice with all 1911s?

As far as I know, that maneuver was specific for Series 70 Colt Government Model 45 ACP pistols with the collet bushing and, st least in my experience, doesn't work for solid bushings.

Best remedy - get a bushing tool - after enough use it will loosen up for removal without the tool. Midway has a nice small one I carry in my wallet.
 

ScottRiqui

New member
Thanks for the replies. Fortunately, the R1 comes with a bushing wrench so I've been able to disassemble/reassemble it with no issues. I won't worry about wear between the bushing and the barrel - I don't shoot well enough that I'd be likely to notice the difference if the bushing/barrel fit were to loosen up microscopically.
 

lamarw

New member
It is a good thing it comes witht he bushing tool. I have disassembled a lot of military M1911's and never needed a bushing tool. I needed it the couple of times I have field stripped the Reminton R1. It was tight.
 

Casimer

New member
I wouldn't be too concerned about it unless you are blasting the X ring out at 50 yards.

+1 - this technique is often recommended for match 1911's. It's to preserve the B to B fitting, but that's not such a concern for most pistols.
 

OJ

New member
They make a plastic bushing tool that's good - doesn't scratch your gun. Personally, I like the small thin one I got from Midway - fits in my wallet - only costs a little over $3.00 - but - shipping/ handling/insurance costs are a little over $6.00 -
:rolleyes:

It's worth it, though, if need to do anything at the range.
 

lamarw

New member
Yes the bushing tool included in the box with the Remington R1 is plastic and gentle on the pistol finish.
 
You might be a 1911 fanatic if you keep a barrel bushing wrench in your wallet ;):D

Way cool.

I can get the bushing off by using an empty case if needed (my 1911s are 9mm, and a 9mm case seems to work well without any finish damage).
 
It does make it easier when the Barrel is slid out a bit on my Series 70. I turn the bushing to the right and let the recoil spring come out in my hand, then I can push out the pin, slide the barrel up, and take the bushing out (by turning it the other way). No tools needed. I don't mind a bit of discomfort on my fingertips though. I've never tried it on another 1911 so it might not work that way for you all.
 

lamarw

New member
Well Coyote, I don't want to arm wrestle, but I do have good hand strength. It may come from opening jars for my wife like most of us.

I will say you are much a man if you can turn the bushing on a new Rem 1 with only your hand. I am speaking of the initial clock-wise turn. It is the first 1911 I have needed the bushing tool. I have cleaned the old M1911A1's thousands of times while I carried them in the military. Never needed a tool then.

Give it a try and let us know how you do. Just a fun challenge and no offense intended. :)
 

tim s

New member
Of course you could eliminate the issue altogeather by taking the gun down with far less stress . Bring the slide back until the slide stop notch and hold it with one hand, push out the slide stop, slide the slide with barrel off, pull spring out from behind, then barrel, pivot bushing out, reverse order for reassembly. Once you do it this way you will never return to the "fight the bushing " method.
 

OJ

New member
Rugerismisticness
Senior Member


You might be a 1911 fanatic if you keep a barrel bushing wrench in your wallet

Way cool.

I can get the bushing off by using an empty case if needed (my 1911s are 9mm, and a 9mm case seems to work well without any finish damage).

Guilty as charged - I happen to have a Series 70 made in 1970 and a "repro" made since 2002 (low serial number - have owned it some six years) - Shoot both every week at outdoor range - usually three 8 round mags through each - more, if I feel need to improve (or, just feel like shooting more).

The collet bushing is still in original but, I replaced the solid one in the "repro" with a Brown which is tighter and needs a tool - haven't ever had need to use it at the range yet - but -you never know - as boy scouts say - :rolleyes:

Only thing that came up on that one was explaining to wife why color was important on a gun bushing - ;)

Did the same when I replaced the stock side stand on my Beemer Bike with a Brown's side stand - like to keep her interested.

70G.jpg


71B2.jpg


I carry whichever one I last shot best - dunno why it changes from week to week - but - that's my story and I'm sticking to it -
 
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gyvel

New member
Unless you repeatedly disassemble and reassemble your gun, the tight bushing will probably not suffer enough wear to ever make a significant difference in accuracy in your lifetime.
 

tim s

New member
You'd be surprised, it will and has, at least as far as higher end 1911's. That is why the method I outlined is the exact way Les Baer suggests his fine guns are broken down so as to exert less pressure on critically fitted components.
 
Give it a try and let us know how you do. Just a fun challenge and no offense intended.

Haha alright, if my LGS will let me just break one down. They might say "I don't give a damn what you do with it, after the purchase."
Of course you could eliminate the issue altogeather by taking the gun down with far less stress . Bring the slide back until the slide stop notch and hold it with one hand, push out the slide stop, slide the slide with barrel off, pull spring out from behind, then barrel, pivot bushing out, reverse order for reassembly. Once you do it this way you will never return to the "fight the bushing " method.
I do it like that a lot as well.
 

TriumphGuy

New member
If your mags don't have basepads, the lip on the bottom is exactly the right size to push the spring plug down and turn the bushing.:cool:
 
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