My Beeswax / Olive Oil Mix

JACKlangrishe

New member
Hey Everyone!!

I need some lube on hand for my next phase, so I prepared some beeswax and Olive Oil in a pyrex bowl and saucepan double boiler configuration. I opted against the microwave after reading some posts about exploding glass and flammable fumes from beeswax, even though I know the majority of people do this with a microwave without incident.

So, it turns out that beeswax weight in ounces are equal to its fluid ounce measurements, making it easy to measure your ratio. (at least, according to this: http://www.worldwidebeekeeping.com/forum/index.php?topic=567.0 )

So I did a 1:1 ratio, mixing two chopped up 1oz beeswax sticks with 2 fl oz of extra virgin olive oil and my results were very similar to the description here: http://www.humblebeeandme.com/a-quick-guide-to-beeswax-liquid-oil-ratios/

"...1:1—Equal parts beeswax and olive oil yielded a very hard mixture. I could not push through it with my finger, and it didn’t start to melt at all as I tried. I was able to scrape it up with my finger nail. When handled, it was quite tacky/sticky and hard, with terrible slip (it skidded) and a high melting point."

Here are my results:

fresh from the boiler:
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cooling down:
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..and this was the final product, removed like a waxy pancake and flipped into a tupperware. The bottom was still warm enough to be runny
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Since I'm pretty confident from your input that there is no wrong way to do this, and it really comes down to preference, I think I'm going to further dilute this run to a 1:4 ratio. I was expecting a consistency a bit more like vaseline, which I can work with my fingers, and it would break down into an oil when handled. Let me know if that sounds too thin.

I'm thinking a mix that's too waxy would gunk up the works quick and be pretty hard to handle.. any truth to that?
 

Beagle333

New member
I like mine the consistency of chapstick or any lip balm. Some want it as thin as vasoline or Vaporub. It's really your choice.
It's so easy to thin or thicken.... make 2 or 3 different small batches and when you test them you'll have your favorite recipe and can easily remix the others to suit. :)
 

JACKlangrishe

New member
Great! I'll re-melt it late tonight when I get back and add 6 fl oz of oil.. that should make it 2oz : 8oz and will hopefully get me closer to that vaseline consistency I'm after.
 

JACKlangrishe

New member
Also, dumb question but in an earlier attempt at a run I dripped some sweat into the mix while it was still liquid. Also, a few droplets found there way in from the heat being too high on the double boiler. I was able to scoop it out and saved the results, but it made me think.. if water were to get into the mix, could it theoretically get trapped in the lube? or would it be negligible?

I'm sure its a good idea to keep water out of the mix, but I'm thinking it would take a significant amount of water to actually make it to the firearm after all is said and done.
 

Hawg

New member
The sweat wont amount to anything. Methinks you should wait till you're ready to shoot the thing to see what consistency you like.
 

JACKlangrishe

New member
Good Point. Typical for me to put the carriage before the horse when learning something new. Lots to tweak, this could get addictive!

I'll need some lube so I'll stick with what i get now and I'll make some different variations later.
 

Beagle333

New member
Now if you're gonna use wads, you can get you a felt hat from the thrift store (that says 100% wool, no poly stuff) and a Harbor Freight punch and start making your own wads to soak with your newly made lube. :)
 

JACKlangrishe

New member
Yes! That's what I was thinking! The stiffer lube would probably be great for soaking felt with. I bet a stiffer mix will scrape the fouling out better when making wads. The concepts are really starting to click!
 

foolzrushn

New member
Like Beagle I like the Chapstick consistancy. But I think the lubed wads are a bit messy. So I skip the wad soaking...use a dry wad...and then scrape a fingernail size dab of lube into the chamber on top of the wad, then load the ball.

Don't know that it's better, just don't need to dig around in the lubed wads to separate one from the herd. Only need to wipe one fingertip on a rag to keep the lube from getting all over the gun. Seems to be enough to keep things moving.

I have mutton tallow from Durofelt in my lube. I really didn't experiment ( maybe missed some fun?) , I just followed Gatofeo's recipe and was happy with the results.

Harbor Fright has some hex drive punches that I use with a drill to cut wads..but I think I already mentioned that in one of your threads.

Whoops...there went Santa Claus....in a red Mercedes??? :confused:
 
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JACKlangrishe

New member
Thanks foolz!! That tip will save me a lots of time.. definitely going to try that.

Got the consistency I'm after by scraping off a tablespoon of mix, mixing with another tablespoon and a half of oil, and nuking in the microwave for two 30 second increments. Couldn't be easier! Took no time at all.
 

BlackPowderBen

New member
Harbor Fright has some hex drive punches that I use with a drill to cut wads.
I don't want to hijack the thread, but Foolzrushn, could you leave a link to the harbor freight hex drive punches? I went on their site but couldn't find much.
Thank you!
 

foolzrushn

New member
Ben

After I got mine, I modified the size that was closest to what I wanted. I used a Dremel and abrasive stone to open the ID slightly. I also resharpened the outside bevel on the cutting end of the punch. It doesn't need to be perfect, the wad is going to compress slightly when you use it.

Edit: If you mount the drill in a vise or something, with the punch to be worked chucked up and turning, then you can slowly use the Dremel and stone bit. This will keep things fairly round. Poor man's lathe.....;)

Hawg (or anyone) - Have you had olive oil soaked wads go rancid? I bought some oil for lubing and such, but then got some Balistol. But I haven't used either yet.
 
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BlackPowderBen

New member
After I got mine, I modified the size that was closest to what I wanted. I used a Dremel and abrasive stone to open the ID slightly. I also resharpened the outside bevel on the cutting end of the punch. It doesn't need to be perfect, the wad is going to compress slightly when you use it.
Thanks for this info, I was wondering how I would open it enough to the right size.
 

Hellgate

New member
To help the punches work better I hog out the top of the hollow so the wads come up more readily from the bottom and don't hang up. I make the exit for the wads smoother.
Also I make a warm/hot weather lube of 50/50 BW & OO (olive oil) and leave it be or color it with a short chunk of red crayon to dye it red/pink. For cooler/cold weather I used a 1:2 BW/OO mix and tossed in a bit of a blue crayon for the cold weather indicator. The problem was when we'd have a cool, crispy AM and a hot PM. I'd have to use both. Now I pretty much just use the under ball wad with the 50/50 BW/OO mix in felt (SAE F-1) or fiber wads (Circle Fly from Track of the Wolf [lube and split 1/2" wads]).
 
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